Your thoughts on 10,000 mile oil changes.

$1,200 for the oil change on the BMW???? Holy sh!t that's crazy!! I'd have to trade it in when it came time to service it! lol...

 

if I remember correctly, the manual states you can use 5-20 if 0-20 is not available, but to change the oil back to 0-20 on the net oil change.

 

Yup. That’s exactly what I do every 3 years. They are great performance machines, but, they are very expensive to maintain.

 

I don't wait for 10k. do 5-7k DIY. Nothing about the oil I see coming out in 5-7k makes me want to wait till 10k.

 

How about just following the manufacturers reccomendations? They didn't just arbitrarily pick the number out of a hat.

 

Why yearly if very low miles? Moisture?

 

How did you get this arrangement?

 

Maintenance Log

5,000 miles or 6 months

Check installation of driver’s floor mat Inspect and adjust all fluid levels1Inspect wiper blades
Rotate tires

Visually inspect brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs


Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions3

Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:

Inspect ball joints and dust covers Inspect drive shaft boots (4WD) Inspect engine air filter
Inspect steering linkage and boots Re-torque propeller shaft bolt4

Replace engine oil and oil filter 2Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body

Driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading6: Re-torque propeller shaft bolt4

Replace engine oil and oil filter 2Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body

Repeated trips of less than five miles in temperatures below 32°F / 0°C:

Replace engine oil and oil filter 2

Extensive idling and/or low speed driving for a long distance such as police, taxi or door-to-door delivery use:

Replace engine oil and oil filter2


DEALER SERVICE VERIFICATION:

DATE: MILEAGE:

10,000 miles or 12 months

Check installation of driver’s floor mat Inspect and adjust all fluid levels1Inspect wiper blades
Replace engine oil and oil filter 2Rotate tires

Visually inspect brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs


Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions3

Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:

Inspect ball joints and dust covers Inspect drive shaft boots (4WD) Inspect engine air filter
Inspect steering linkage and boots Re-torque propeller shaft bolt4Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body

Driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading–6:

Re-torque propeller shaft bolt4Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body

 

Honestly, how big of a change in viscosity is it? Not by much. DOn't know why they're being anal about oil. In other cars if it's 5w-30 that is recommended people use 10w30 or even 10w40. Heck I used to use 0w30 on a car that specified 5w30. Haven't heard of one instance where an engine suffered because the owner used 5w30 instead of 0w20. In colder weather fine, but going from 5w20 to 0w20 is not that much of a drastic change in viscosity. If it was 10w40 maybe...

 

If only it were as simple as that. Toyota, as with all other automobile manufacturer relies very strongly on their CAD systems. The high level of competition has forced auto makers to turnout new products in a very short turnaround time. Therefore, there isn't enough time allocated to product testings. With that said, the actual real world product testings are being performed by us the consumers. Thus, resulting in multiple recalls and product modifications. From the nickle and dime side, it is far more cost effective for an auto manufacturer ti have a new product on the market and capitalize on the high revenue yield. Conversely, it is cheaper for auto manufacturers to issue recalls for minor issues. Like Toyota's recall of 3Gen Tundras to tighten some rear seat screws. My point is that Owner's Manuals are mere guidance, they are not the solve it all.

 

You guys concerned about mileage and use should consider having oil analyses done for your trucks and seeing what the results and trends say. There's some really good information out if you look up some of the Blackstone analyses on oils on the market.

 

They would rather spend $50 on an oil change and not know than spend a few bucks for a lab to analyze and have real data to back up the decision they are making.

 

10k miles is a bit too much for my piece of mind but I'm certainly no expert. My Honda mechanic friend did agree that if it was his truck he wouldn't wait that long. Just had a service at the dealer and they told me come back in 5k miles for my next change even though it is not a FFV, but they also told me I had a CVT transmission in my Tundra so they are clueless... I won't be going back.

 

The Toyota dealership I purchased my Tundra from, Fred Anderson Toyota in Raleigh, NC offers this on all new Toyota purchases as well as any used Toyota purchases in which the vehicle mileage is less than 50,000 miles. One of the main reasons I purchased from this dealership.

 

$1200 for an oil change...good grief. Must be a very high-end M car? New M5? Even that seems strange. Run of the mill 340 is definitely not 1200 for an oil change, so must be something wild!

 

Yup, my M3, M5 and GTR!

 

@trdprobped17 Nailed it Very nice stable you have going there. One day...

 

Thanks Bro!

 

I don't have the manual in front of me, but what synthetic oil does toyota recommend for my truck? O-w30? Not 10w30. I'm in southeast Pa

 

That has nothing to do with this conversation. The oil change schedule on a tundra is nothing new. If Toyota publishes a 10k oil change interval for an engine that is tried and true, why second guess them? Unless you drive your truck offroad and/or tow, which toyota covers in their service intervals so again why question them and go off and decide you know better?

If you just feel better changing it more often, go for it you're the one buying the oil. I take exception to arm chair quarterbacks that assert their opinion like they know better than the company that designs and manufactures the trucks with no factual basis to backup their claims.

 

It's on your oil cap...5.7 calls for 0w-20.

 

@Redbeard321, this is a healthy discussion forum!!! FYI, my brother-in-law is a director of product testing and quality assurance for JM Family Enterprises, Inc.,(http://www.jmfamily.com/). He is a graduate MIT, and do work alongside other Toyota engineers for Toyota USA product development! With that said, the argument that I have regarding the auto industry's approach to their product development comes directly from a leading specialist in the auto manufacturing industry. Besides, the information is no secret and can be verified by anyone who cares to do so. While I do appreciate your passion for your Toyota vehicle I assure you that I am just as passionate about Toyota's products, who currently owns 5 Toyota vehicles in my driveway. I am a car enthusiasts tried and true! Thank you for your contribution to this discussion.

 

I don't think anything can get car/truck folks "discussing" like oil - types, brands, change intervals, etc. I turn 56 next Sunday - you think I'd be wise enough by now to just stay out of it. But, WTH...

My OPINIONS. Worth exactly what you pay for them:

0W is almost always good: if you can have good viscosity at low temps the oil is going to get where it needs to be faster on startup in chilly temps. If I remember correctly, the first number is what viscosity the oil has at 0 degrees F. I.e. it flows like a 0 weight oil would at 0 degrees F. It used to be really hard to do this AND maintain a good viscosity at high temps, but synthetics and additives have given us best of both worlds.

20: I really think all manufacturers are doing this to try to meet CAFE requirements. The thinner oil allows the engine to run a bit more efficiently since parts aren't moving through and pumping the thicker, harder to move fluid. Does it protect as well as a 30 or 40? Doesn't "seem" like it would, but I have no idea, really. Oh, and again if memory serves (and things haven't changed) the 2nd number is what the viscosity is like at 100 degrees F. So this flows as a 20 weight oil would at 100 deg.

Bottom line (see OPINION statement above): engines don't typically fail from lubrication-related issues these days like they did 30+ years ago. I venture to say any Toyota engine is gonna give you 250K with any decent oil and 10K changes. But, if changing at 5K makes you feel better, go for it! Given what I've read in

https://www.tundras.com/threads/broke-down-pre-collision-system-malfunctioned.28789/

I am thinking I'll do a 1K change to get any potential nasties out of there.

Wally

 

I totally agree.

 

I change the oil and rotate the tires in all my vehicles every 5K miles.

I use Mobil 1 5w30 in them all as well.

 

Just got my oil results back interesting since this is my first time sampling oil. I’ll bee doing this from here on out with all my vehicles.

 

I agree wholeheartedly. I change our Lexus and Toyota per the maintenance booklet with the recommended oil. Generally my oil expires on the Tundra (1 Year) around 8800-9200 miles. The Lexus is 7500.
I've never had an oil change related failure in my lifetime. I've used different oils, and synthetic when the market provided. I've had Motorcycles, Boats, tons of different cars.
Follow the book.
The million mile tundra did. The engine tear down revealed minimal wear. He brought it to Toyota and used their oil. What more security do you need?

 

That looks about right on for new engine. I would've probably gone longer based on those numbers. Next time, get a TBN report and you'll see how the oil is really performing based on mileage etc. Based on what it looks like here, the oil was in awesome shape though.

 

I skipped some comments in the middle, but I don't see any filter info. IF you want the 10k oil change I think I would swap filters at 5k and top off. I changed mine at 2000 for the first change. I wanted the "break-in" oil out of there. From here I let Toyota do the 5k. I haven't decided as to whether I will let them do the others or do it myself. $50 does it with mobil 1 and a Napa gold filter. It takes me 2.5 hours to let the dealer do it. I will be the first to admit I have trust issues with the stealerships. I HATE not knowing if they actually used synthetic, and not knowing if they dropped the skid plate and bothered to do the filter. They won't grease the shafts every 5k because those 4 precious pumps of grease are not included in the "super awesome and amazing Toyota care" package... Cabin filter? Nope. Rotate tires yes, balance nope. This is why these places make my skin crawl. either do it right or don't touch my $42k truck!!!!!

 

there is no "Break-In" oil anymore, that's a thing of the far off past. Try to find a high zinc oil for flat tappets...tough to find these days too. Brad Penn is one of the few left of those. Technology changes fast, not just you're phone technology, but Chemical Engineering has come leaps and bounds.