Yet another P0420 code

My experience is saying you pinched a wire during the swap. I just did air filter and my maf wires are hard ( brittle) as crap. And I had a 4-runner that had a crack in main ecu wiring loom. PO took it to four shops and they could not figure it out, threw every part imaginable at it. They gave up, i COMPLETELY unwrapped harness and it was ONE cracked wire causing all the issues. It took a full day of test light volt meter, repeat. But i got a cherry lifted 88 4rnr for a nickel. Did you completely unwrap harness or just chect at neck by harness?

 

I’d be after the spacers that have the two bolt toyota flange. I’m coming up fairly empty for anything local. It looks like they’re only available online?
https://jcarpart.com/products/toyot...sbj2_lfdsPp4C8KezFd1Vkl5bwXeWUDxoC5u8QAvD_BwE

 

I think with your welding skills you could easily make your own spacers from two extra flanges and tube (plus new gaskets) or weld another bung on top of the existing bung

 

I did unwrap the harness in a few areas (where i spliced in the 4wd sub harness), but other than that i did not. Anything is possible, as you found out, but i was very carefully to not pinch any wires during the engine swap. The engine harness gets laid on top of the engine during the install, so it’s not like they can get pinched between the firewall while the cherry picker is lowering the block into the engine bay.

 

totally could, but ugh, totally don’t want to. Maybe i’ll get more motivated to do it. So how long of a spacer would need to be fabbed up?

 

You just screw the fouler on end of 02 sensor. Much easier and cheaper.

 

My rear sensors are the two bolt flange style. The front are the standard thread in.

 

Got ya, my bad. That a bummer.

 

I've been wondering if the ECU and the wire harness would accept the new style rear O2 sensor that screws in. That's what my 06 has. But my 03 has the ovals.
Would be easy to just thread em into my current off brand cats with a fouler/spacer thingy. Or even thread to an oval plate with the fouler/spacer. But sensors are way more expensive than spacers.

 

Here's the spacer I bought. I'm just waiting on the gaskets to arrive.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/3mirrors...g8_2_CYYOqjvetuS3cvIcyRfMdCqWjIRoCx4QQAvD_BwE

 

right then, i'm planning on making my own flange style o2 spacer for some experimenting. But before i go any further, does anyone know just how far the tip of the o2 sensor needs to be away from the flow of exhaust? Does the tip need to be located just at the very edge of the exhaust tube, or does it need to be further away?...such as more like an inch or so?

 

Thanks for planting the seed! I was at the gym for quite a few hours this morning thinking about flanges and tubes while working on my MASSIVE gains. I came up with a fairly simple game plan that i was pretty sure would work.

The oil fouled flanged o2 sensors (that were off of the 2004 broken engine) were drafted to the cause. I cut the sensors out of their flanges, then welded a piece of pipe between the two. It was pretty darn simple. I was hoping to find a piece of stainless tube in my shop, but i didn’t find anything that would work. Zinc plates steel it was.

 

The spacer adds right about 2” of length. It was raining this evening so i didn’t install the spacer yet. I’ll wait for a break in the rains tomorrow.

 

I got the sensor extension installed today. I’ll take the truck for a test drive tomorrow. I don’t have high hopes, so if this doesn’t work, i won’t be disappointed.

 

Since i already had the truck up on the 2 post lift today, i figured i’d try an experiment and make my own impromptu smoke machine...AND it didn’t work...whatsoever. What i did was jam a shop vac into the tailpipe and positioned the hose to “blow”. I then poured about 1 cup of gas, 1 cup oil, 1 red shop rag, and a pair of torn nitrile surgical gloves all in a metal 5 gallon pail. After lighting it on fire, it produced a fair amount of smoke! I then put the “suck” inlet of the shop vac right next to the smoke. The problem was that since the “blow” side of the hose was stuffed tightly into the tailpipe, then the shop vac couldn’t inhale up any of the smoke. So in concept it could work, but in reality it was a fail. I should have taken a pic of the whole setup, but alas, i didn’t.

 

Holy cow I bet that smelled worse than a eotten pile of dead ass!

 

I mean it wasn’t too too bad. At least my shop didn’t stink afterwards...then again i didn’t do it in my shop. My friend is currently in germany with his family (european vacation style). So since he’s gone i did it in his shop. It should air out by the time he gets back home in another week.

 

An update to this posting here...

I’ve been driving the truck around for the past few days. I drove about a 50 mile round trip to church and back sunday morning, then drove it another 20 mile round trip to the gym and back today. So far the CEL has stayed off. In the past the CEL would light up after about 15 miles of driving around. Could this simple inexpensive homemade o2 sensor spacer be the miracle i was looking for? I’ll plan to take it in for emissions testing tomorrow or the next day, so stay tuned!

 

The rule of thumb is, "when all else fails, spacer."

Can you check with the scanner to see the readiness state? If OK, and testing has completed, you're good for emissions.

 

I just PASSED!!! Thank you all for the guidance on this!

 

My gaskets came in yesterday and I installed the spacer today on passenger side sensor. Went to erase the p0430 only to see the p0420 had popped up after the spacer install. Weird.
So I ordered another spacer. I've got plenty of spare gaskets because I thought I was only ordering two, but I actually ordered two bags of 4 for $4.04. Happy accident I guess. I'll report back if CEL comes back before or after the driver side gets its spacer.

 

Thats great news! Happy you are CEL free. Now you can rock the bad cat while you shop for a good deal on new one. Honesty. I would try a hi-flow cat and keep the spacer on truck. Might free up some ponies and you wont be killing the whales.

 

Whales, snails....it’s not worth it to me to go after a high flow cat. Then again i don’t know how much more one costs than a standard run of the mill cat. I’m totally satisfied with the power of my engine. Yes i have oversized 265/75/16 tires, but since i swapped in 4.10 gears i can light up the tires at will. Buuuuut i do secretly wish that a cracked exhaust manifold was the cause of my p0420 code. Because if it was that, i would have emptied my new chainsaw fund and bought a pair of Dirty Deed’s long tube headers. And if i bought those headers, i would have made an excuse to also buy the rest of his stainless dual exhaust system.

 

Hi flow should be cheaper. Less REM used , i will keep the forum updated on my dirtydeeds review. I cant afford his complete exhaust so it will more be a lth review. I can have a great flowing header back system made, so if the headers make power it will still be a valid test. Id love to know more about our ECU capability to " self-ture" from MAF/upstream o2's ecr

 

I got the long tubes and the DD race exhaust on my 06, if y'all have any questions.
@BluegrapeVr6 @whodatschrome

 

Well you called it, I got a p0156 this morning. I didn't use the bend, but to use the spacer kit on the older oval base sensors, you have to use two pieces between the ovals. ECU doesn't seem to like that. I guess. I'll have to find some one to weld the top oval to the first piece of tube, for a shorter spacer. FML

 

Congratulations @whodatschrome ! I knew a spacer would do the trick

 

Can you unscrew the oval flange and nut and screw it onto the single piece tube instead?

 

I'm chasing the same thing right now. Shit's annoying