Wrong battery??Help a novice please!

This might help you..

2005 tundra Manual.

OM34427U.pdf

^ edit, that didn't work.

You can download it here:

Toyota 2005 Tundra Owner's Manual (OM34427U)

2005 Toyota Tundra Manuals & Warranties | Toyota Owners


Fuse box locations are on pages 432-433

Fuse legend (where each one is) are on pages 479-483

 

That could be true. I’ve had a few batteries over the years that died, recharged to correct voltage, but discharged rapidly and were basically no good.

If the battery is good…

> does the starter click? Do you hear clicking while turning the key? If yes, it’s usually a battery thing, perhaps fuel thing.

If no clicky, it’s usually a starter thing. You could hit the starter with a tire iron and see if that helps. Tap it a few times. Sometimes the electrical connections in the starter get gunked up. Look up online for starter location.

> if your hear clicking, dome light and other lights are bright, then it could be a bad starter relay (square looking fuse under the hood in a plastic black box. Look up online for the starter relay location.

> If battery, starter and relay are good, I’d check the fuel pump and fuel level


Anything beyond this probably isn’t a good idea for you to mess with. Get help to be safe. Good luck

 

I went up a size to a 27F a few years ago but I never could find a bigger battery tray. My 27 hangs off the edge of my tray and I don't like it. Does this mean Toyota makes a bigger battery tray I could buy?

 

They must. Mine fits perfectly.

 

Yea they have a 27f battery try

 

Like lowlife stated Toyota batteries have a different post orientation then most. I know on the Gen 2s that the cable will not reach if you get a different one and have the terminals towards the front. If you use that same wrong battery and the terminals are towards the rear the cables will be hooked up wrong. When mine died I went to WalMart. My local WalMart quit selling 27s in the F configuration. I asked why and the dude said everyone bought 24s. That figures most people that shop WalMart are there for the price. I bought AutoZones best and so far it has outlived the OEM by many months.

 

My 2014 came new with a 27F battery.
This seems to be the 27F tray.
Double-check and make sure.

74431-0C020 - Battery Tray - 1996-2020 Toyota | Sparks Parts

1996-2020 Toyota Battery Tray 74431-0C020 | OEM Parts (oempartsource.com)

Fits 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tacoma , Tundra 4.7L. 27F group. 2.7L, auto trans. With 5.7l, without 165 wheelbase, with cold spec.

You can find them on eBay for $40ish with free shipping

74431-0c020 | eBay

 

As I rule, I never trust the people who sell new parts, to tell me if my old part needs to be replaced. The only battery a parts store will tell you isn't bad, is the one they just sold you.

There is no fuse that would cause an engine to try to turn over but not be able to.

Hooking up a battery backwards can fry the fusible master link, but that will result in nothing on the vehicle working period.

An engine trying to turn over, but doing so slowly is only caused by either a bad starter, or a not enough amps getting to the starter....either dead battery, or bad battery terminals/cables.

My opinion is still that this is a classic bad terminal/cable situation.

 

Ok the battery designation is not the issue here as long as it is connected in light good enough to tell red from black?
I still do not understand what the new battery did aside from blasting the horn and flashing dash lights? This alone dies not say to me that a fuse blew but in fact the opposite usually?Did it turn the motor over too or not? At least we know for sure that the new battery was charged. Do you still have the new one?
The old battery though we never heard a peep out of right? Did it ever turn the engine over or light any lights since being charged?

 

Update: Thank guys. Stupid me... the battery that was erroneously given back to me by Auto Zone ( the one that caused the horn to blare, the dash lights to flash and the truck not to even try to turn over) was not a 27F it was a 27 DLG.....if that makes a difference....meanwhile I have started on the fuses under the hood. 3 small ones blown thus far. Replaced those with no luck. Trying to get the 2 big main fuses out at present. They are giving me a hard time. Watched a couple of you tubes. Took off the nut and bolt holding them. Tried to pull them out with needle nose pliers, no luck as of yet. I'll be able to start again in the morning. Plan on checking those out before diving into the little bottom fuse box that is underneath. Read somewhere to check the 140 ALT fuse that is located there. Thanx for all the input 8)
.

 

If it was a 27DLG, likely connected with reverse polarity.

 

Thank you. I wrote an update. I will clean the terminals again. The ground wire looked good. I will check into the starter.

 

Yes. I had a feeling that was the case, unfortunately. Know nothing about engines but I could my Tawondra ( my truck's name) was Not happy in that moment.

 

Ive never hooked a car battery up backwards, but im positive ive had nighmares of doing it.

 

Anyone with tips how to remove and check the big main fuses? I took the nut and bolt off. Still can't get either one out. Used pliers...just don't want to force it.

 

8) I will have nightmares now. Matter of fact, think I had one last night.

 

If you have enough light to be useful to see what you are doing the negative/Black wire is usually grounded to the body of the truck within 1 foot of the battery.

If you can not see this clearly you should wait until you can before connecting any battery anytime.

I imagine this seems obvious now too though.

 

Isn't the main fuse that's 140 or so amp really hard to get to? I feel like I've heard that but I've never had to personally deal with that. Take the fuse box apart or something like that.
@Tawondra05 I hope that battery was only hooked up for a split second after the horn went off. Maybe you'll get lucky enough to only have blown some fuses and not have burned up any components. You should probably go through every single fuse in the truck just to make sure everything is good. I feel like needle nose might be your best bet on some of your tricky ones.
If you're able to post pictures of which ones you're having trouble with that may be helpful as well.

 

Looks to me like Auto Zone should do the rectifying of the problem.

 

So just to clarify....what currently works on the truck?



And sorry, I've never had to remove the fusible link the 140/100 amp fuse (That us the fusible link) on my tundra. I've hooked up a battery backwards twice on my subaru and both times it fried the fusible link, but that is very easy to replace on that car, its just a thick wire in the fuse box.

This link has instructions for removing it on a Sequoia, should be similar if not the same.

 

The highlighted text tells me your daughter hooked up the battery backwards. The positive and negative terminals are different sizes.

Having said that, the larger capacity battery didn't do any damage -- that's not how it works. You could hook up the largest 12 volt battery you can find -- say a Group 8D battery which has a capacity of 1450 CCA and is probably 3 times the size of the original Tundra battery. It's still just 12 volts and will work fine. (except it won't fit in the engine bay)

 

Neither have I but after replacing the battery in my Tundra I could see it happening. As mentioned before the Tundra battery post orientation is different then most.

 

Finally got main fuses out. Black one looks fried on top. What you think about the green one?

 

Agreed on the black one and this is why you need a meter for the green one.

Can you easily find the black replacement anywhere?

 

A proper nightmare is convincing yourself you didnt torque lugnuts. Ive pulled out the wrench and rechecked after questioning myself several time. Like ive rechecked whether i closed the gate or not.

 

I'm checking out our local shops now ( ones that are open)...I tried using the meter i have. Nonconclusive to say in the least.....which translates to I don't know what I'm doing....Gonna check a couple more you tubes for guidance

 

Doesn't look that hard to get too..

https://youtu.be/-yVdVCr42oU

 

I'm not a mechanic, but if was in your situation, I'd replace them both..
Glad you got them out..

Seems to be your part numbers..

826180C030 - Fuse, fuse block. Engine, panel, transmission - Genuine Toyota Part

826180C040 - Fuse, fuse block. Engine, panel, cowl - Genuine toyota Part