Why the obsession with 35's?

Yaesu FTM-400XDR running APRS (so 2m all the time) Plus one additional frequency. Usually 146.520 while I'm on the road or 146.460 while I'm on the trail.
Icom IC-7100 either doing HF, or VHF, or UHF as necessary. (that's the pair of VHF/UHF Antenna Pairs.)

There's a dedicated GMRS radio in the truck. That's the fifth roof mounted antenna.

The screwdriver on the back driver's side is the HF antenna for the Icom. (I've talked to Moscow Russia from Austin Texas while doing 70 down the highway.)

And finally the CB antenna on the back passenger's side, because not enough of y'all are willing to get a GMRS license, or ham radio license.

 

I switched to Mono-band quarter wave NMO antennas because I got tired of breaking $90 dual band antennas while off road. These are both very simple, very robust, and cost $9 each. They're small also which makes keeping a couple spares in the truck really easy.

 

willing, yup not willing.... do I consistently break FCC laws, yup... gotta catch me in the act while im moving.. .good luck! LOL

but that is cool. Id do it when i have some free time, but that seems to be never.

 

In order to keep this thread as off-track as humanly possible....

Do you know if APRS enabled rigs will be able to see each other on a map if they CAN'T hit a repeater to get back to the service? If they're all connected to each other on the same freq? I thought they all needed to ping the server, but someone said it should work without hitting a repeater...

 

poop chute?

 

If your receiver can hear their APRS Packets, ie you're either in range of them, or a repeater they are in range of. Your receiver will at a minimum give you bearing and distance to their truck. If you've added additional things (like a Laptop, or tablet with some software.) you will be able to plot them on a map. (I'll post more about this in my build thread in the next week or two.)

 

Not exactly true... They put more square inches to the ground increasing traction.
Weight of truck remains the same, so it equates to Lower lbs/in2

 

Yeah, I was thinking of running the software on all our tablets. So when we split up to search for campsites at the last second before dark we can find whoever discovers a good one.

But hide-and-seek in the dark for an hour before dinner is kind of an SGU tradition now.

 

@DividedSky, well it sounded good, what about when you air them down?

 

Same... I bought a new set of wheels/tires for "wheelin" and kept my stock for DD'n
Takes me about 30min to swap over all 4 wheels when Im headed off for an adventure (Coop STT Pro 295/70/18s). Around town, I get funny looks from the jeeps and dudes on 35's since I have nice suspension, sliders, skids and a bed rack while rockin stock tires, but know what... F'm. I'm not here to impress anyone. I just want a capable rig that will get me where I want to go off-road (and do it fast).

 

when you air down Pressure per square inch lowers even further as a direct result of the increased contact patch size.

 

Are we talking tire PSI or are we talking about the contact patch of the tire w/ the ground? Although, they are kinda the same...
If you lower your tire PSI, then you get a bigger contact patch. Think about snow shoes. Your body weighs a certain weight. If you are wearing shoes, you sink through. If you wear snowshoes, you float on top bc there is less PSI on the ground. If your 100lb weight is on 10 square inches, then you are delivering 10 PSI. If you increase that to 50 sq in, then 2psi on the ground.

Road bikes w/ super skinny tires need to run 100psi+ Mountainbikes with wider tires run 25psi Both are supporting my fat ass!!

 

I have about 3/4 of an inch to spair on each side with 38’s in the fenders, so it is tight fit . I would think anything larger would require cutting the panels and gone with the liner

 

Nice! Yeah I have fiberglass bed sides and fenders and no fender liners... so way more room than stock.. but there are still limits w long travel I already rub on the front and rear on certain flex movements and big hits

 

With a little less offset you can tuck inside the fenders. Here’s our 37x12.5 on 0 offset.

 

Pavement Princess only for my wife’s baby. Notice the urban flex setting.

 

I have followed and looked at your group of friends builds. Are you trying to make me spend more money on new wheels. So I am stuck with the -44 off set for a while. If I was, I would be to go down to 18" wheels.

 

I added the lift and tires to keep the short fat girls out. That's why there are no steps too.

 

You mean Red Snapper(s).

 

I just went with what I thought the vehicle need(aka looked the best).

Honestly, when I had my Jeep I just wanted to go 37s because I really wanted the clearance. What it came down to was the Jeep just couldn’t handle that big and heavy of a tire with stock composes, i.e. gears, axle shafts, axles, brakes, etc.

The Tundra is such a better built more capable vehicle that when I put my 35s on I barely noticed the difference. I even think the speedometer is more accurate.

 

In the spirit of needing more of this...I bid you a good evening gents....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hd5trM5DvTQ

 

Oh yeah!

 

those are some NICE 35's!!!!!!!

 

Like this song so much more now.

I feel dirty, but I think I'm ok with that...

 

well. there’s your first mistake...

@KevinK

 

They take me where I want to go

 

No joke! I just spent the past hour poring through it. @KevinK, you are a doer. I wish I had a tenth of your gumption.

 

I would not say a mistake but learning curve . Since I was already in the spending and modification mood the ideas got going. I started with 35's but after a while and standing about 30 ft away it looked small.