What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Oil change today. 5w-20 QS synthetic. Apparently 6-6.5qts for the 2wd pans, I put 7 in and it's a bit over the full mark.

Should be fine once running and I was parked on a slight downward slope.

Also a $2 10qt bucket from wally world worked great for an oil pan. My other pan would have worked but been near or at full. Since it's taller it is right below the pan, which helped since there was a breeze today.

I was considering the diode for my truck too.

I checked and my '05 was running 14.0v, when checked at 65mph via the OBD2 adapter on torque. Since I have a conventional battery no need for any higher voltage level.

If I had a gel or 'dry cell' battery I'd want something like 14.4-14.8v iirc.

It will 'work' for conventional batteries but you want it in the proper range. Iirc 14.1-14.2v once past initial cold start charging stage is the maximum for longevity on lead acid batteries. So 13.6-14.0v is probably a safe range.

 

Depends on how long the grease has been on there. The longer the more its a Doughy Shell. If you brush against it hard it will leave a light dirt/grease smudge. Just regular touching/grabbing the frame it doesn’t leave anything on my gloves. When its fresh, yeah its like fresh grease and will schmear easily.

After a month or two, the Doughy Shell kicks in. Your cross member grease sounded freshly which will make a mess. I can recco some Zout Stain Remover if you’d like.

 

I installed a ToyoMafia sticker today. Instant 17HP gain.

 

I'll definitely be considering the grease rub down more now.

For the time being, how often would you recommend a PB blaster treatment for my grease free frame?

 

Yeee fuckin haw.



I liked it so much, I bought another one.

 

steering feeling a little light?

 

Got bright lighted a few times before I finally realized why. She’s sittin tooted.

 

might'a sat a bit better with the engine over the axle. Safe trip.

 

Yeah, I couldn’t really scoot it much further back on a 16ft trailer. It was close to a 6.5 hr drive, almost all interstate, so I wanted it just about as far forward as I could get it. Left to pick it up at 5 this morning and just got her home safely. Oddly enough, I got 11.8 mpg unloaded running at 70mph on the way there and got 11.6 loaded running at 60 with O/D off on the way back.

 

Is it 4x4 time?

 

The PB is a primer to suck into all the welds. For me, it also refreshes the ‘Factory Frame Recall Spray’ that was done in 2018. I’ve since switched over to Squirting Oil out of a quirt bottle onto the Frame which also soaks the folds and welds in the front box and rear overlaps. I prefer the Oil at this point, but PB is a good primer.

Main thing is get the grease rub on as much as possible and everywhere as possible. Circle back after and use a combo of PB and Oil to get the folds. I’m pretty much finished with doing all the Greasing and most of the Oiling at this point as she is pretty much fully done and all my welds look saturated. I only have a couple angles to attack inside the frame box when I drop the Skid Plate this week.

Like I said there will be areas that you can do when you are doing other work on the truck. Bust out that Grease Sponge you’ve saved and wipe that area down. Hit the nuts and bolts... everything. Pretty soon she’ll be done.

 

What kind of touch up/ how often you have to do in the fenderwells and suspension?

 

Did you remember to do those other two smaller ECU Grounds behind the block? The pass side one is adjacent to the pass side body to block ground you did closer to the center engine. The driver side one is a little easier to reach.

These aren’t listed on the FSM as Groundings, but they surely are. They come out of the wiring harness around the Starter Backside location.

 

I’ll have to revisit today sometime. Can you see them from the top of the engine or is it a blind hand model move to get to them?

 

Its ‘The No Look Move’ on the pass side. Drivers side can be seen with the right angle, but still go by feel.

 

Sho-nuff

 

Spare removal tools had never been used, and this bad boy has spent 19 years ready to save the day.

 

I know I have a bias to do body work before mechanical work....
Wouldn't it be easier/faster/simpler/more VIN accurate, to fix the 4x4 with body parts from your truck?

 

What’s the plans with that one? Looks fixable

 

I'm going to disagree. Until you lift that bed, you're not done. Just takes a swing set, some chains, or an engine hoist & some chains.
The 'new' frame on my Taco during bedswapectomy.

 

All this talk of rubbing grease...why not move somewhere sensible and use paint? 2 tone gloss black and underbody foamy spray paint.

 

Our neglected 2007 parts truck with 340k miles on the original frame is still minty... no clue how. It’s driven year round doing deliveries, not really washed or anything.. hell it had the original spark plugs at 290k... but the frame is damn near spotless.

 

If the side mirrors are powered I’ll take em off your hands....

 

Awesome. This will be fun.

 

Today, replacing springs. Whatever the set up, it’s levels but sucks. Stock KYB and some Wheelers springs that may as well be welded. Anyone know anything about these springs?

 

just got my new parts in the mail friday some new:
bilstien 5160 rear shocks
OME 2886 front springs
Power stop 13wl calipers rotors and ceramic pads
Just got to go get that Tire gate off a chevy and fab that up and some new rear wheel bearings and truck should be mint for another year

 

Well, The King OEM Performance kicks ass as far as I can tell on the street and curbs. I don't need reservoirs, I'm not hard core, or extended travel or any of that. Maybe I'll build that truck later. This Gen 1 (2005 DC RWD) is awesome. I'll never sell it. But damn, a high end level kit is high end in mid travel. Best money I've spent on that baby in a while. The early fluids, timing belt, water pump and everything else was probably more important, but I feel this. Doesn't hurt that I haven't hit 95K yet. Yew!

 

This ol girl is giving my ol girl a front pumpkin. It might be salvageable but I’m not gonna go down that rabbit hole. Trust me when I say it’s good from far but far from good. It’s a flood salvage with 200k on it. Interior smells like a bag full of dicks, there’s mold everywhere and I can see grass on the hvac gears. I’d guess it sat in 3-4 feet of water during the Houston flood a few years back.

Before I agreed to buy it I bypassed the trans cooler, cranked it up, shifted to 4lo and spun front and rear tires in the gravel. So that was good enough for me. T-case and diff are gonna get a good once over before finding their final home.

Started pulling all the junk on the front today and noticed it looks like the frame is tweaked pretty good. My driver jack stand is even one notch higher in this picture.

 

Buncha vultures around here I tell ya.

Haven’t had time to mess with them yet but the passenger flops around like the safety fold is broken and the driver has about 2 lbs of black tape around the base.