What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Guys, I think today is new engine startup day!! My bud and I finally got the torque converter installed correctly yesterday. First it was confusing as the part didn't seat or click when turned or pushed like on YouTube. Finally, I just gave 'er a pretty good shove and it very satisfyingly slid into the transmission! Mating up the bell housing was, for some reason, 5x harder this second time but we finally got one bolt lined up, then another, followed by the rest. Only 1 out of the 10 decided to go the wrong way, which I could maybe re-tap as it's on the bottom. We made sure the crank still turned at each step; it did and still does. Getting the TC connected to the driveplate was also interesting. Today I'll put in a few gals of fresh gas, attach the intake manifold, reconnect all lines, fill with oil, coolant, maybe ATF, and tie up all the last loose ends before the big startup. You can imagine how excited I am after nearly four months of rebuilding! Stay tuned.

 

Awesome!! Good luck on the start up!!

 

IIRC @Professional Hand Model uses a tub-o-moly greeze from thy local Vato Zone. And/or new motor oil.
I'll be doing this in a couple weeks.

 

Nicely. For the oil, I use a squirt bottle for up in the box frame. Shoot it all up in there and try aiming up in the frame holes.

The greasing should be done first and it takes the longest. I broke it up in two half days.


Rub everything. Axles, Frame, Leaf Packs, Hub Covers...

 

PHM, talked to you last week about your Denso 673-1303 packs. Is there any difference compared this part spec'd for your truck?

Having a hard time wrapping my head around 2 similar Denso coil packs, one half the price of another.

 

@Professional Hand Model I should of posted in the Lunch table thread!

 

Anyone got some droop for sale? When i unbolt the stockers will the cv’s and balljoints reach? Longer sway bar mounts?



brakes are dragging, hubs are free.

brakes are free, pumped em while it was running, linkage had wiggle.

 

Uh. I saw you post pictures of those the other day and I thought they didn't look right. Are you sure those Bilstein's are made for our trucks? They look way too long to work.

 

Those are 3rd gen Taco assemblies according to the number on them. No way you're getting things set correctly with stock UCAs for sure. I wouldn't run them but to each their own.

 

Where theres a will, theres a way. Long arm and uniballs? They sell long halfshafts?

double woot!

 

keep in mind his current set up is still all connected, so everything is tight. drop the swaybar link, and unbolt the shock, it's probably closer to a 2" difference.

so, a 2" lift. big whoop.

 

Wouldn't be a big deal but since the Tundra is heavier and who knows here the travel will end up something like this could happen.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/broken-shock.481379/#post-14683909

 

holey ships! I dont hit big bumps fast. Fatter bumpstops. Curious why the lca’s are 2 piece?

 

Would any kind souls be able to post some pictures of your drivers side engine wiring harness and how it routes below the exhaust? I'm having a LOT of trouble getting it in correctly.

 

where does the harness go below?

 

Thank you so much for this. That first photo is the one I need, but I still can't quite see what I'm looking for. Anyway you could take that one but a little closer? There is both a big clip on the engine block that holds wires as well as some that go behind a heat shield behind the exhaust. I need to know which go to which

 

i cant see much of the wire grounded to the block.



add the pic you need and ill try to copy.

 

This unit had a dimmer mode, But i havent driving during the day yet. I will later today. The volume knob and have a front facing usb for carplay was my main reason for this unit.

 

No blue teeth?

 

That's super helpful, I tried to upload a photo and it wouldn't let me. Anything you can show me of the wire loom going around the drivers and front side of the engine will help me greatly

 

I'm sure you could make those work with some aftermarket upper arms, but I've never been a fan of the Bilsteins with the extended eyelet like that. Just seems like a really flimsy point to me.

Depending how much lift you achieve there your CV joints may not last long. They don't like life at over 2" of lift. Your sway bar should be fine, it can work to the extent of stock suspension travel.

 

That looks great. Thanks.

I'll be doing some shopping this weekend and will see if I can get my hands on a can as well as do some more research.

 

The 1303 fits the 2002 4.7L 4wd SR5. Also fits 2004 Sequoia.

 

No there is, But I wanted to be able to use navigation. And I didnt want those little navi antennas or whatever they use.

 

Oh I gotcha!

Android auto on Crutchfield with a volume knob is slim pickings...

 

That "direct to metal" is different then the stuff that popped up on Amazon that I briefly explored. I'll look more into this. I'll check at north 40 (local tractor supply type store) this weekend. I'm guessing they'll have this.

 

i’ll compensate with a winch and plate bumper.

 

I am referring to a $5 tub of Moly Grease from autozoned. You could use a sponge and dip it and wipe. You could also use a brush to apply it. Goes on slick and shiny and after a few months turns into a nice Matte Black Finish. Once its applied it does not wash off easily as it forms a Doughy Type Film over the metal.

You can plunge it down the Box Frame with a flexible stick with sponge on end. I follow up with PB Blaster and some Oil in a Squirt bottle that absorbs in penetrates the welds and folds up in the boxed area.

FF is ok, but goes on like snot and doesn’t penetrate like Oil or PB (cheap). Grease is cheap, too. Whenever you are working on your truck pull out the sponge and wipe that area down. Eventually, your frame/nuts/suspension components will be fully protected for life.

Grease goes on easy (but takes work). Less work than painting POR upside down under your truck (how do you paint with it inside the frame?) and spending $$$ on a little jar that needs another UV coat.

FF washes off and is inferior to Grease and Oil. Also, FF Snot can’t be sprayed easily in the box.

I did NOT power wash my frame first as there was no mud caked on. The grease will go right over light rust/dirt and neutralize it. If you do power wash be careful to not over do it and end up like a Turd Gen guy wondering what happened to his electricals.

 

I greased my frame using my hands. But I make money by getting greasy so it was just another day.

I'll second the grease rub. I feel confident in it.