What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

You were correct sir.
They bled the brakes but couldn't get it much better than I did. Then they had the audacity to quote me $541 to replace the master.
Gonna order a new master tonight and slap in there myself.

 

FYI,

You can order a master cylinder rebuild kit from Toyota for around $30. If you can even find an OEM MC they are around $200. When I looked it seems they are likely discontinued. Or just roll the dice on an aftermarket MC.

 

I know you know how to bled brakes so this is for others that care.

First vehicle I’ve ever bled was the Tundra last year. Original booster, cylinder, brakes, etc.

Did it successfully 3 times over about a month. First time was just because it hadn’t been done in a while. Second time was when installing the SS Flex Hoses. Third time was when installing new front calipers and rebuilding the rear cylinders.

PHM Technique: 2x4 block under pedal. Me under truck yelling and Hot Model in driver seat pumping. I yell ‘Pump 5 times’ and open the Bleeder valve on the first pump as I watch the fluid pump 5 squirts against the side wall of the Organic Plastique Widdy Wack Recycled Water Bottle (TM).

Timing is everything. As the 5th Pump is releasing its squirt I shut the Bleeder. This allows no air to enter as the Valve is being shut on the push and not the suck. Note: I do not use the Goofy Hose Technique going into the bottom of the bottle. I just poke a hole into the side of a water bottle and hook it on the bleeder. The fluid squirts against the inside sidewall of bottle.

I do the Bleeds in 5 Pump Intervals which allows me to do 3 intervals (15 pumps) and return up to refill the Rez. Never let Rez run dry!

Order in bleed: Pass Rear, LSPV, Driver Rear, Pass front, Driver front.

The final (3rd) bleed when I rebuilt my brakes I installed NAPA Power Bleeders. They allow a 1/4 turn without letting in air. The brakes can be bled by One Person by 1/4 Turn and then going up to push the pedal. It still is faster with Hot Model in the seat so all I do is roll under the truck and fill the Rez, but its nice to have them on in case of future need.

I read dirty threads cause problems. I think cleanliness is the key on these bleeders, brake lines, and the threaded ports. I spent mucho time wire brushing/rag wiping the old bleeders and ports. Also, there is some rubber type seal inside the brake line compression fitting (not the bleeder) that requires High Level Hand Mojo. Ying and Yang on the insert. Thumb, palm and index finger push/pull on the unit with one Hand whilst simultaneous insertion into the port with a twist into the thread cleanliness with the other. Nirvana is achieved when things line up.

Firm pedal a year later with no problems. If I can do it, then anyone can. No need for complicated vacuums and bleeders mechanisms. All you need is 2 People, a Plastic Bottle, a Flare/Box Wrench, and some DOT3 or the El Fluído Supremõ Bosch DOT5.1

 

OEM you must.

 

@empty_lord

What is the better technique for best long lasting results? Rebuild Master Cylinder or just buy New?

 

Good info and techniques
I think best results involve a hot model or a friend who is visiting just to drink my beer. I have a power bleeder that works well on my VW but is pretty hard to use on the Tundra. Mityvac works but has limits and is pretty messy.

I do use the clear tube technique to watch for bubbles to stop appearing, and I hang a bottle higher than the bleeder to make it easier to watch. Ultimately doing it the PHM way should work just fine as long as enough fluid is pushed through.

 

oopsy, too late. I ordered a Cardone with res for $104.
After I remove the old one I may delve into rebuilding it however... if it's OE. No idea what the previous owner had done, he doesn't even know.

 

Posted the wrong parts above earlier. This is the rebuild kit. Looks like our New Cylinders are $1200?

 

why for?

 

New Toyota is best in my opinion. But a rebuild can last just as long as long as it’s done right and the cylinder bore is good

 

I remember this as a kid. No hot models in the driver’s seat. Either me, my brothers or one of my sisters barely old enough to reach the pedals with a father yelling the same. Wrench and bleeder valve in one hand, beer in the other and about 3-4 child labor laws being broke that day. Good times.

 

To keep from pushing the soft pedal too far down and Blowing Mojo Up.

 

Yea when bleeding brakes on an older system going half the travel of the master usually prevents issues

 

Bleeding with or without motor running?

 

All 3 separate times I bled were with motor OFF.

 

Ok, well that's probably part of my problem. Key on?

 

Yeah. For the radio so I could listen to Angry White Men screaming at sky.

 

Here is what the parts look like. There isn't much to a MC. I watched a video on it which I posted before. They guy explains why there really isn't a need to replace the entire thing when you can easily rebuild them. He said you only replace if the cylinder bore is damaged like Empty mentioned.

I see no reason to spend $250 on a new MC when the new spring/plunger thing is $30.

 

Master cyl should arrive late next week. Looks like Jeepy's gonna be gettin some more road time.

 

ALOT of cylinder bores are damaged when I pull them apart, but that likely is caused by my climate.

 

That's a different part #.

The one I ordered is 04311-34020

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-master-cylinder-repair-kit-0431134020?c=Zz1jbHV0Y2gmcz1oeWRyYXVsaWMtc3lzdGVtJmk9JnI9JmE9dG95b3RhJm89dHVuZHJhJnk9MjAwMCZ0PWJhc2UmZT0zLTRsLXY2LWdhcw==

 

I'm glad I kept my original MC. I'll rebuild that if my Napa one goes bad.

 

What damage do you see inside the Bores? Pitting? Scratches?

 

pitting is usually what is found. towards the end of the travel of the piston, since the masters rarely go that far and people dont like doing their fluid

 

Well, it looks like I'll be tearing back into my MC this weekend. All four brakes are locking up and getting hot after going for a small drive. Jacked up the front and tried to spin the tires in 2WD but no luck. Jacked up the rear and it won't spin in neutral. I have a feeling it's most likely the travel adjustment on the rod. I believe it is too long and not allowing the MC to release properly. I also pulled my vaccum check valve from the booster and made sure it's working properly.



I have no clue what I'm going to do with my old MC if anything. It'll need to be rebuilt if I end up selling it.

 

Pedal have free travel or is it stiff? If no free travel, probably out of adjustment as you guessed.


Crack a bleeder and release pressure if you need to move the truck.

 

Yeah it's stiff. That's what I had to do last night to get a mile or so back home.

 

Did the 1st oil change on the new to me '06 DC today. Pulled the skid plate w/ approved floor jack support method promoted here. Glad i did, the bolts holding it up were almost locked up. Cleaned the threads on the wire bench wheel and applied 'Anti-Sneeze' per PHM guidelines. Let Ted Tundy come up to temperatura before draining. . .oil level was lower than should have been, almost a quart shy. OEM filter was installed way too tight . . . had to strap-wrench the thing off, with the resulting and gratuitous denting of course. Installed a fumoto drain valve for future Tom Slick'ery. Mobil 1 , 5/30 was on sale at Wally World, and bought a 5-pack of OEM strainers of 'The Zon'. Buttoned her up . . . purrs like a bobcat.
Tomorrow I think I'll take a stab at draining the pumpkin & filling it with some Señor Lucas 80/90. How importante' is it to get new crush washers for the drain/ fill plugs? Not a big deal if needed, there's stealer close by . . . but would rather not donate to the church of thieves unless I have to.