What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...TgGqxpbkuYs9ReBzd9hoC1uEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I have one that goes in an air hammer. Works like a charm, if you have an air hammer

 

Like this boy? Where the hell has this been my whole life? I didn't know this tool existed! It's perfect for this job!

 

Milwaukee has a small impact drill which I found on the side of the road. Works well with their High Impact Drive and Phillips Bits. Used it to open up my Alternator which is similar to your scenario. The regular bits will shatter.

 

Also did you know about Jap. industry standard?

 

How exactly is that going to help one that won't turn? It just drives it into the grooves further for more leverage?

 

https://youtu.be/RWYXnMM__6M

Good tip at the end there also.

 

As you strike it it turns the screw head very slightly. It will break loose most stuck screws.

 

Just ran into this problem with the JIS "phillips" head style screw bolts when I removed my throttle body and had to clean the IAC valve. The IAC has 4 of those as well. I got 3 off with a regular Phillips and then stripped the 4th one. Turns out they are not real phillips but JIS like others stated. I did the same thing, I bought a hammer style impact driver and it came right off. But i had to take a dremel and cut a slot in it to the get the flat head bit in for the impact driver. I then replaced them with socket head style bolts so this wouldnt happen again years from now when i go to clean it again.

 

It turns slightly left of right as you hit it depending on which way you have it set. And you have to also turn it with your wrist, in this case to the left as you hit it and then it slightly bumps the screw to the left breaking it loose. A second hit will probably get moving just fine and then you can just starting turning it off by hand. Such a great tool to have that a couple days ago I didnt even know existed. Id buy one just to have around, considering they are pretty cheap too

 

but you could have just replaced the starter and had the job done

 

I have 1/2 stripped small phillips heads before by hand, which I then borrowed my neighbors Makita cordless impact driver...it immediately removed them with no additional stripping. Hand impact driver will probably work too...

 

Very interesting, I didn't know there was a ever need to dissect the TB like this. Did you post pictures when you cleaned out the valve? Since all my parts are sitting about, maybe it's a good time to clean out my IAC, too.

True. However, I feel like far too often we jump on the most instantly-gratifying solution instead of spending more time or being more creative. No one on this board that I know of has rebuilt this starter, it could be slightly more economical, the truck is not going anywhere, and I wanted to see what makes the part tick.

 

I didnt post any pictures of the IAC valve removed from the throttle body but I watched a couple videos that all stated it was a good idea to do so while you had the throttle body out. It wasnt very difficult once i got it removed and it was quite dirty. I have the 3.4L V6 and apparently the IAC valves are known to cause issues when they are dirty so decided to go ahead and clean it. You have to buy a new rubber gasket if you remove yours though which i picked up from the dealership.

PS. I just used q tips to clean the IAC valve without spraying Throttle body cleaner directly inside. The "timmy toyota man" on youtube said he had slight issues spraying directly in and said it was probably best to just clean using q tips.

 

I wonder if this is unique to the 3.4L? I haven't seen anyone mention it on the 4.7l.

Our Rav4 sometimes idles poorly and I've tried every single fix except for the IAC valve which I read on the Rav4 forum could be the issue. It isn't sold separately though. Maybe I'll try to clean it.

 

I replaced the front oil seals over the weekend, thanks to everybody for the tips!

Drivers side is still leaking though and I'm wondering if I did it wrong. I just pushed it in until it din't go any more with the 2" pvc cap. I'm wondering if the cv axle isn't all the way in, is there a spec on that gap? I hammered it in until it wouldn't move any farther, but the gap seems to be bigger than it was before I removed it.

 

How bad is it leaking? My passenger side had a slow weep. Not even enough to drip down on my skid plate. After a month or so it stopped completely. Give it a few weeks and see what happens.

I thought the same thing and I even posted a picture here asking about it. There is still a small gap which I thought didn't look right but it apparently is.

 

Gap probably looked bigger cause the seal was driven in too far

 

I completely understand that. The mechanical engineer style mind of mine thinks the same. But when I have a wife and two kids that deserve more of my time than my truck I find the easier/quicker route to complete the job.

 

Factory of aftermarket CVs?

I too just did my seals this weekend. Cleanup was diligent. I only drove the seals in until the inner (smaller) lip was flush with the housing. Same approach for the passenger side.

 

Correct, I went until the smaller lip was a C hair out past the housing

 

Every time I hear "C-hair" in convo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wucj-cHGTw4

 

Thanks for the replies! I probably drove it in too far. The axles are OEM, but ancient. The leak is pretty bad, like dripping off the CV after a 20 mile drive.

I'll redo the job this weekend and not drive the seal in so far.

 

Not sure where you're located, but I'm up in FoCo if you're nearby and need a hand.

 

The driver side? I don't see how you could drive it in too far as it has that ledge inside that keeps it from going any further. The passenger side is the one that is tricky. Maybe the new seal got damaged when driving in the CV axle?

Here is the driver side with the seal out.




And then with the new seal in place.

 

@rock climber didn't you say this was for your Sequoia? Maybe your front differential is different than ours?

 

Yeah, it is the driver's side which I thought was weird too because that's the one that can't be screwed up. Yours looks like it's in farther than flush and the other two said flush which is what made me think I drove it in too far.

I could have also not put it in completely straight or damaged it when I put the cv axle back in.

This is for the sequoia, the differential is a different part number, but the cv axles are interchangeable. I wonder if it's because of the AWD in the sequoia.

 

JIS has a dot on the head. Those in the photo don’t have the dot

 

I heard that about having a dot on the head, but I watched several videos stating that these were JIS screws but that they had no dot? So not sure if these are or arent. I think usually they have a dot, but maybe these dont?? I could totally be wrong though, you're definitely more of an expert than me!