What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Really debating having mine painted when I get new mirrors that don’t shake..

 

I used 3 small lock washers on the screws underneath. No more shake.

 

Tried. But the rust on these mirrors means the screws one come out. I’ll just get new ones eventually. Need to do all the door rubbers too. Probably summer time when the tacos closer to done

 

Good to know. Thanks

 

Got my steering shaft seal all replaced thanks to the helpful thread. Figured it'd be easier while the engine's out. My old seal was essentially a giant hole into the engine bay, thus explaining why I'd hear no difference after doing all the sound deadening I have!


Question, is the "steering shaft universal joint" supposed to have a lot of play, like mine does? Maybe it's supposed to cushion steering wheel input? I'm replacing the lower part of the joint that has this rubber pad. I think this might just be a "secret" replaceable part that will help with steering wheel play, will update if it does.


Also realized from comparing pictures that I am missing the steering rack dust cover, so ordered that too. Hopefully not enough dirt has entered to the point of ruin.

 

I bought mine used from www.car-part.com from a wrecked 2003 Limited. Was able to haggle them down to $55 shipped which worked great because I sold my old front suspension parts for $50 lol. I’d check there first as you can find some good deals and you can always try to haggle.

 

Something is funky here, I can't see a true hot spot or cutoff line, and the projectors look like they might be pointed off to the sides. Usually the two hot spots are straight ahead. Also the projectors aren't straight

@SouthPaw Am I looking at this wrong?

 

Nope, you are looking at it correctly. They are not aligned and are bow shaped right now. From the video, it appears the driver side projector needs a slight rotation counter clockwise and the passenger a slight rotation clockwise. Once they are flat/level, the cutoff line will be defined and the alignment process can begin.

Aligned vs misaligned:


It’s hard to see a hotspot on video because the light adjustment but here you can see the cutoff lines.

 

Update on the HIR Reverse Bulb Upgrade: So far so good with the limited night driving done thus far. The light is much brighter at 900 Lumens than the LED Sylvanias 360 Lumens. The light is just enough to prevent purchasing additional auxiliary lighting fixtures. Haven’t had any Zzzzttt! smells or fires. Engine still runs. Feeling good about it all.

Bulbs were about $8 each and look to be $17 at this moment.

 

For those that won't read the CAI thread.

I modded a TRD 'air accelerator' which is a fancy way of saying rubber velocity stack to fit my OEM VVT-i intake. (Won't fit non VVT-i.)

OEM:


TRD (before modification)



Modded airbox and also cut the base of the TRD off (part with the rectangular slot for a locking tab on the TRD intake box).

 

@assassin10000 how does that help exactly?

 

From here:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/cold-air-intakes-what-have-you-tried.67835/page-2#post-2065105

The $3-400 TRD intake kits come with these. Some of the kits use the stock lower airbox and give you a fancy lid, higher flow air filter (oiled/reusable) and a noisier intake tube.

Fortunately these are available separately.

Gains are minimal and are very hard to quantify without dyno testing. But a new air filter and one of these for <$8 seems worth while. I haven't decided on which filter yet. AFE or AEM, both are a high flow, reusable filter.

 

Rebuilt the other cv axle with a high angle boot. Now I have two new oem inner boots and grease but only 3 clamps as I used the wrong one on one. Anyone need them?

 

The axle seal is finally in, an oil filter did the trick in getting it to set properly. The metal ring popped off the seal when tapping it in but I was able to get it back on with some work.





Two of the axle bolts that came with the backing plate kit were too long and interfered with the parking brake lever, causing the parking brake shoes to not sit right. I picked up some bolts that were a little bit shorter and that fixed the issue. Put white lithium on the main metal-to-metal contact points. I ran both parking brake cables to the front adjustment point beneath the cab and I will finish connecting everything and removing the old cable this weekend. I'll hopefully be able to connect the calipers and put in the new master cylinder too.



Someone mentioned Wally-world on here for motor oil - I generally try to avoid them lately but I picked up 10 qts of Valvoline 5w-30 for cheaper than what I normally do. I also got a few misc goodies from the stealer including oil filters, a new radiator cap and a new air cleaner. It feels like I just changed this thing yesterday, dust sucks. A few poor bees stuck inside.




Something interesting and reassuring I noticed today too; looked at my Toyota service history online which reminded me I had the dealer service the trans, diffs, and t-case etc. about seven years ago. I had forgotten that was done but given the mileage and time that has past I'm still going to touch on everything else I haven't already because I love this truck.

 

Actually got back into garage and worked until i killed my spool of wire and didnt want to change it. Got everything tacked and ready for full welds and fill plates.




Also got.my tiny dimple dies from Swag today. 1/2", 3/4" and 1" and will still do 3/16" steel. Now I can fit them just about anywhere ....

 

Im planning on cleaning my throttle body this weekend. I have the 3.4L V6 5v-fze engine so I have some extra hoses and things to remove to get to the throttle body.

A couple questions:

1.How do i remove the throttle cables? I watched some videos but couldnt see how they removed those. The throttle cables are directly attached to the throttle body unlike the V8 guys in here.
2. Whats the best way to clamp the coolant tubes so no coolant spills.
3. I read in a 4 runner forum last night that my IAC might be integrated so i cant clean that, but some years you are able to remove it and clean it. I guy was saying for the removable type you need and angled screw driver to reach the screw holding it in?
4. Whats the torque spec on the 4 bolts connecting the throttle body to the engine?

Sorry kind of a lot of questions, but if anyone has any insight on any of these thatd be appreciated. It doesnt look too hard to do, but I just wanna be as prepared as I can before I start tackling this thing. Thanks guys!

 

I can help with #1 and 4. Looks like the throttle cable has a swedged end that just locks into the throttle pulley. Rotate the pulley clockwise until you have enough slack to remove the cable end..

the torque is listed in the diagram

 

Thanks for the help! Which diagram are you referring to? Sorry if I missed it

 

The diagram that I added in my post? You don't see it? I had trouble uploading it, but it should be there now...

 

Yea i see it now! I was like oh man im an idiot, haha

Thanks for that diagram, thats super helpful by the way. Where is it from?

 

How hard was it to adjust the the tabs for the bulb to fit?
I thought I remembered reading there was a little hocus pocus required for proper fit.
Do you have a link for the bulbs?
TIA

 

That used engine I ordered WAS too good to be true. It still hadn't shipped, and a Google search on the company revealed many fake reviews, with the real ones being "THESE ARE SCAMMERS" as people received engines which later stopped running, weren't what was described, or other terrible experiences. I barely cancelled the order in time and am trying to get a refund.

The plan now is simply to do the head gasket job myself. With the engine already out, partially disassembled, and with a lot of parts already on hand, I'm not that far off. A local machine shop can resurface the heads. I'm concerned about:

•Removing/reinstalling/torquing all the intricate parts and in the right order.
•Not knowing which parts I should have replaced while the heads were off; , bearings, little seals, etc.?
•Them new head bolts being so expensive. $10 a pop for 20, geez.
•Something else going out down the road, like the oil pump.

The only other option is to put in a reputable used engine locally for $2700, and have essentially a car payment for a year...

Any pointers even though heads blowing is rare on these? The block is fine as the engine didn't overheat for long. Gonna head to the scrapyard today and practice on a scrap Tundra engine.

 

Yeah. No need for any Hocus Pocus like the Originator CrashesBurns started. Others just stabbed their bulbs in straight without problems. Some tried bending for pressure fitment and Mangled their bulbs.

I just cut some cross hatching barbs on the Prongs with a sharp razor to create an anti back out effect. Added some Electric Lube on the Prongs for Optimal cool conductivity and inserted. Feel good about it.

 

Refer to the FSM for all your info. You should go for it and do it yourself since its already pulled. Go ahead and just replace the Oil Pump Gasket. I’ve never heard of our pumps going bad. I know my gasket o-ring has a slight leak. You can do this.

@empty_lord can give better insight.

 

@HBTundra I forgot I did bend the socket tabs inward with a Dentist Pick. This helps with pressure.

 

Thank You . . . looks they're out of stock on 'The Zon' .

 

I think the Second Stemellus cleared them out. I got my order in right before the rush.

 

Pulled the Air Filter Box to Feather Dust underneath it. Ended up Porting the pipes with a file/Dremel as best as possible. Heated and Flaired the intake tip a little. I’ll revisit the MAF Port and grind off a little more in the future.

 

Alldata.com

fantastic site that I fortunately have access to through work...