What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I take the torque wrench to mine every oil change.

 

Anyone have the torque specs for those 4 bolts for the LBJs on hand??

 

Someone can chime in if I'm wrong but I think it's this one.

 

I had written down 59 ft-lbs for the 4 bolts and 103 ft-lbs for the castle nut.

 

Now I gotta go check mine too.

 

You know I can't put rusty parts back in after I've removed them. Since I am holding off on an exhaust overhaul for now, I resolved to simply restore my stock headers during the engine replacement and quarantine downtime. It's to help them last for a few more years, and make the engine look cool. I let mine soak in some Evaporust for a few days before wire-wheeling the rest of the rust off, cleaning, priming (pic not included), and painting with a VHT exhaust paint per directions.

Figured why not do the heat shields too, including the wire loom one, because why not.



Maybe one day I'll be wealthy and can afford those fancy stainless exhaust parts y'all like, such as long tube headers. Until then I'll settle for good looks.

What are you guys' opinions on wrapping exhaust components?

 

New tires today. Came home and changed oil.
134,000 miles best truck I've ever owned.

 

The Island Winter Puddin’

 

malo.

 

Muy malo

 

Seems SN (Situation Normal) for this time of year on the truck. I’ve been doing lots of short trips under a mile. Checked PCV and it looks good. No worries here.

 

I run 33x10.50R17 and have zero rubbing. I love pizza cutters.

 

Finally got the Tundra in for an alignment today. While it was in a shop had them change the oil & rotate the tires.
When it was done, he let me know I was low on coolant, but he topped it off along with the washer fluid.

Checked it over, because i do that & because he literally took almost 30 minutes to get the skid plate reattached. WTF?

Alignment feels good. The overflow tank full of pale green fluid - NOT good.
Now instead of 'watch it', i have to do a system flush - but first have to do a pressure test to find out why it was low.

Are there no professional professionals in this city? So frustrating.

 

I continued my paint restoration project today and have a couple of questions.
What is the best way to remove this lower window trim? I'd like to prep and paint it.
2021-01-15_05-30-14 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

... and what is the best way to remove these OE decals? They're stuck well and I expect they're pretty brittle.
2021-01-15_05-30-38 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

Progress for today: I was able to finish the front quarter panel and passenger door (also that fiberglass strip above the front bumper). Slow going but I'll get there.
2021-01-15_05-28-58 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

To PHM and others... from a previous thread. The tips you gave me regarding emblem removal worked excellent! Heat gun + fishing line does the trick. I sanded them and used adhesion promoter & bedliner to black them out. I ordered FuzeIt to reinstall as recommended by you shadetree geniuses. Should get here next week sometime.
2021-01-15_05-29-33 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

 

Try the Heat Gun on the stickers, as well. Per the window trim: I sanded and painted mine right on the door without removal. Used some Blue Tape, Paper, and a Plastic Bag over the mirror. Sprayed with Bedliner. Holding strongly.

 

Roger that, thank you!

 

I think I am about to order a set of those in that size. What do you think?

 

Got a good start to my three day weekend of Tundy fundy. I will finally be finishing my rear disc brake conversion.

Went to the DMV without an appointment to pick up the truck's new black personalized plates. In and out in less than 25 minutes.



I also picked up my axles from the machine shop. Brand new housings, bearings, seals, ABS rotors, everything. The backing plate for my disc brake conversion mounts differently than the OEM drum backing plate.



Undamaged bearing vs damaged:



Damaged ABS rotor vs undamaged:

 

Kinda blows my mind that the FSM calls for only 48 lb/ft on these. I used red loctite when doing mine and also ordered new OEM bolts purely out of fear.

 

@des2mtn twins

 

They made me put it on before going in, I wish I had asked for an extra to have as a keepsake. For now mine is stuck on my Corolla's dash.

 

My wife went in this week but they got us both with the temp gun and gave us both stickers. At the door only she went in.

 

Do it! This is the second set on this truck.
I've had these on every truck I've owned.

 

I found a camper shell for the bed and it was only $150. The paint is crusty and the rear hatch seal needs to be replaced. It's mint otherwise and I even have the key for it.

I also hit a mileage milestone

 

check with a body shop. my guy painted my cap for 200 bucks.

 

Whatever you decide to do with it, here is a guide on how to spend 3 times what you paid for it on paint and supplies.

*Gratification not implied

https://www.tundras.com/threads/06-dc-daily-driver.48447/#post-1259889

 

Yeah it seems odd but there must be a reason for it. Those bolts aren't that stout and it here is what happens when you over torque them.

 

05-06 have bigger bolts

 

Fascinating. I wonder if I could have taken my oem axles to a machine shop when the mechanic said the seals would no longer sit right and charged me over a grand to put new axles and seals in (which did fix the issue).

 

So with my truck being an 01, do i torque to 59 ft/lb like previously stated or the 48 ft/lb like just recently stated?