What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Really wish I had gone for those tires instead of the AT. Next time around I'm getting them.

 

I was just thinking those are a damn good looking tire. 285/70/17 I'm assuming? I've had my K02's in sand, snow, mud, and rock now. They have only struggled in TN mud mixed with cow shit. If I convert the Tundra to weekend warrior status in the next few years I'll switch to a more aggressive mud terrain instead of all terrain. This Yoko would be towards the top of my list.

 

Thats the decision I was afraid to make last time I got tires. I knew our Element needed time off and my GTI can't be relied on for long trips. Now that the Element is better than ever I wish I went mud tire.

I think those are bigger than 287/70. They look like 34s

 

285/75/16

 

Thanks. I find mud terrains typically look bigger than a same size all terrain. Nice pick.

 

Wow, from the way they fill the rear fender I'm surprised. Thats a badass stance and wheel/tire combo you have.

 

The Sweet Spot Tire Size for our trucks.

 

Do you have leather seats in that truck? Very nice.

 

thats one sexy rig ya got there bub, cheers

 

Added some lock washers to the front mounts of the Bakflip G2 that were missing.


Sun was out so I finally put the painted bumper trim on.

 

Ive always loved Volks, Rays and advans but I just couldn't justify the price.

 

Looks a lot better than I was expecting. Very balanced appearance.

 

I believe a few pieces may have been forgotten in my big $800 pre-engine-replacement parts purchase, and I wanted to make sure I had everything.

While I have the new engine out of the truck, with everything real accessible during the timing belt install, interested if y'all recommend replacing:

•Fan clutch (I think mine is the original).
•Fan pulley bracket.
•Crankshaft oil seal.
•Camshaft seals.


This video shows how to do them real easily.

Besides the clutch, parts will only have the engine's 80K miles on them. But I've heard if seals aren't leaking and the mileage isn't crazy, sometimes it's best to let them be.

 

That looks great.

 

This looks amazazing!

 

Does the bumper chrome just pop off? I’ve got body paint that I wanna do mine with too

 

Thanks.

Kind of why I like the work truck look with the metal (early) bumper too.

It no longer seems like the grill is extending onto the bumper.

Not quite. There are 7 plastic clips that have to be removed inside the bumper, a flat tip screwdriver to press the tab and your other hand to slide them out. It's also held on with 3m double sided foam tape, for the most part it comes free relatively easily. Just lightly pry using your fingers and run a razor or very sharp knife along the tape to get it free.


If you break yours or if anyone wants the bumper trim I have my original chrome one ($20 + Shipping? Pm me).

 

Well it would appear it’s time for the diff bushing. The Napa axle seems to have taken a toll on the needle bearing. Horrible amounts of play and the vibration is starting. The Napa axles diameter is different from the oem (where it rides in the needle bearing) by a few thousands of an inch. Likely the cause of wear... soo. Moral of the story, oem remans. Just spend the money for them

 

Yes and it has a little Fung Shway about it also.

 

I used that video as a guide to my Cam Seals replacement. I also learned a few tricks on the Timing Belt replacement from it.

I’d say yes to the Fan Clutch and Bracket replace if its coming from your higher mileage’d 270k engine. The Cam Seals are $30 and are easy to do, but with 80k on them on the newer engine they may not need replacing.

 

So i see alot of guys here start putting different rust preventatives on their trucks this time of year. Im in So Cal and dont have much rust on my frame but I do want to protect it and make it look good.

Should I just wire wheel the rust spots that i do have or use a flap disc with an angle grinder? Also, would Rustoleum be good enough for the whole thing or should I also add something like Fluid Film or Por15?

Lastly, Is there anything under there I shouldnt paint? Ill try to keep away from the transfer case and wiring and such, but just dont want to damage anything. Thanks guys!

PS. Watched a video yesterday on youtube with a guy using RP-342 Cosmoline that he sweared by for keeping his frame clean. Said it was like a hard wax that protected his frame for years. Anyone use that stuff before?

 

@oscardog86

Fluid film is a yearly thing for trucks that see road salt and stuff. I got caught slipping and my truck got salted before I got it treated. Next project is a salt away bath and then she’ll get the fluid film treatment. Been kinda holding off because it was going in a for a water pump and stuff

if I was in your shoes I’d probably just sand it down to smooth and por-15 or chassis saver. Stay away from rubberized coatings. I would think in so cal rust won’t be a major issue for you unless the truck sees beach time

 

@oscardog86 this is good advice. Also, I think you do a bit of offroading right? We've talked about how dirt and mud can eventually lead to rust. I would just hose the frame down really good a few times per year if you get it muddy. I take mine to the quarter wash.

 

Replacement of low pressure steering pump line with $7 hydraulic hose. (Ignore the unattached hose near the reservoir, I just zip tied off the old line.)

 

Yes, it's an XSP which is a trim only offered in the southeast United States. It comes with a port installed leather kit.

 

Thanks for the added input, and yes I do some offroading throughout the year. I try to clean it after each trip but theres always some spots I miss. Would you guys rustoleum and then Por 15, or just clean it up like Cummins3500 recommended and then just add the Por 15? Should I get a spray version or paint it on version? Thanks

 

I just recently had to read adjust mine due to the lift and bigger tires. I will say, before adjustment, the high beams were pointed in the trees. They needed to be backed way down in order to be good again. Another thing, when you have them on, trying twisting the bulb one way or the other inside the housing. It only has a little adjustment but you’d be surprised what a difference in can make moving the hot spot. Sounds like the DRL was your issue on getting them to be reliable.

 

Just finished up an oil change. Mobil 1 Synthetic with Mobil 1 filter. New Fram air filter as well. Also rounded up the camera in the handle. Gonna change the differential fluid this weekend. Mobil 1 synthetic 75-90??

 

Nice day again, so went out and pulled my tailgate to slightly alter the hopkins easy lift torsion bar. Before my tailgate would not fully settle on the cables with it's own weight, it would still have .5-1" to drop. Put half of a jack handle on it and bent it over 90 degrees a couple times and reinstalled. It now will jist come down and rest on the bumper with the cables off.





If I take the plastic liner off it rises up again. Found that out as I was replacing the desintegrating plastic washers with stainless ones.

 

@oscardog86, man I’d hit it with a good pressure wash underneath, sand down the rusty spots to get rid of flakes, and apply por 15. Can spray or roll whichever you prefer. No need to prime with rustoleum. The por-15 and like treatments are made to be applied straight over rust