What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I gave some philips gt200 bulbs coming. They’re supposedly some of the best stock wattage h4 bulbs you can get right now

 

You can run 5k rpm all day if the engines maintained. Oil life goes down though

 

At least you aren’t having to pay Alimony.

 

Sounds sketchy as thats right under the Fast N’Furious Red Line Level.

 

Finished the driver side axle seal and oem axle swap, driver side was good n tite because the ECGS bushing, but I just put a nut on the wheel hub end and smacked it w a piece of wood. Went for a drive and didn’t notice any grease flinging, but I did notice the driver inboard boot is rubbing at the 1st rib but the passenger side isn’t, I will go out later and loosen the outside clamp of the inboard and see if I can stretch/straighten the boot so it’s not making contact.
I also loosened and retightened both lower shock eyes AT RIDE HEIGHT. I have a feeling that’s why my bushings look funky, I’m almost sure I torqued those bad boys while she was at full droop. Tomorrow I will grab a small plastic seringe(or see if the kids have one for their cough meds) and top off the front diff. I ordered like 13qts of amsoil severe gear, but totally spaced getting the squeeze pouches!!!!
I did the entire driver side seal and axle in under 1.5 hours, not bad for a gravel driveway!

 

I use a long 1/2” PEX (a little flexible as you know) Pipe and drop it down from the radiator. Put a kink in it to fit into the front diff hole and fill it by squeezing the Diff Bottle Tip into the top end. Works every time for the front diff.

 

@FrenchToasty you might be able to fab up some copper with an elbow.

 

Gave her a bath

 

Strut out. Spindle out. Lower ball joint removed from the spindle. LBJ is still on the LCA, but I'm removing that tomorrow anyways. Sway link, and lbj will leave with old LCA.

Upper ball joint pressed out of the spindle.

Used ropes to hogtie my tent to the truck. Used ropes to hogtie the rear of the tent to my removed tire.

Hoping that these gusts won't budge my work area.

 

I see you've already done the grease rub to the area.

 

That was way back in July, but yes it'll get another coat.

When I was removing the strut it rubbed on the frame, and the reflection of light on the grease made me think for a split second that it was rubbing these last 16k miles.

Rubbed the grease, and the shiny spot went away. Breathed a sigh of relief. Lol

 

Might just be my favorite FGT on here, props to you sir!

 

shes looking and doing good for a 75 mph rollover eh? lol just need to find a donor interior to be "restored" so i can move onto exhaust and sliders- etc

 

Lol, real good.
I'm sure it's posted somewhere but do you have a before picture handy?

 

You should also try and find his interior restoration, he spray painted trim pieces that now look factory!

 

been watching the auctions?
Salvage Toyota Tundra Cars for Auction at Copart Auto Auction – AutoBidMaster

 

Good to know. I’m pretty diligent about oil changes at 5,000 miles, and I run full synthetic shell rotella.

 

until i actually go through with it, i cannot bid on auction cars unless i have a dealers license in the state of indiana

 

see i want to keep the black. but i duno. now that i have a majority. if i can find a grey interior, im going grey. some of the black in high traffic areas is coming off. paint looks fantastic, but since these parts were painted from the factory, it doesn't seem to adhere as well as raw plastic.

 

i Will keep the black headliner and probably still go with black carpet. and add alot more accenting black pieces into the interior instead of going full oem grey

 

question for you guys on rebuilding CV axles. Got my inner boot off and was looking at teh CVJ red boot and it comes with 3 (1-215gram, 1-125gram and 1-60gram) grease bags. The 215 and 60 have the same part number and the 100 is different. All say driveline grease. The OEM boot kit from toyota comes with 2-215g grease bags so I'd assume 1 bag for each end. The red CVJ boot is bigger so I'd assume more than 215 in that inner boot but do I add all 3 bags? Fill it to the top? Don't know what to do.




Also, there is no way any of the grease would be for the outer boot since their kit is only for the inner boot. (Thinking aloud here)

 

So I just rebooted oems, it was difficult to get 240-250 grams in each side. I went off the oem kit on the weights and added some extra.
I had researched and somewhere found way higher numbers per side, but I think that applied to half shafts with the tripod design(I can see those holding/needing more grease)

 

I'd appreciate if you don't put up any more pics of your truck.........
It makes me want to pull the trigger and do mine in quicksand lmao

Truck looks good man.

 

got it, i'll do a full photoshoot this spring to make sure the quicksand happens

 

ok thanks. Yeah neither side has that 'tripod' design. I did however get the small clamp on the boot clamped but it's still too loose! Ended up putting the wrong clamp on. Fixed but then my clamp tool bent and is broken so I gotta get a good one tomorrow. I also slipped the red boot on and it's WAY bigger than the oem one and does not fit where the oem one fits so I've gotta call CVJ tomorrow and see whats going on. I may just return the red ones and stick with oem. So annoyed.
I keep answering my own questions. Upon looking at the CVJ website it shows the boot installed over the outside of the cup and not where the original boot clamp goes.



Guess I will clean that up and install it there but the question still remains which and how much grease to use so I will call them in the morning. Still annoyed. Sorry for the rant guys. Just hate when things don't go according to plan.

 

I tried to get my door locks to function on the Viper remote start. I used the relay bypass document that I found and wired up the relay and diodes as instructed. I was only able to get the locks to function but only once, the unlocks wouldn't work. I said screw it and decided to leave it as is. LOL.

I put the steering shaft seal covers back on and buttoned everything back up.

Its much quieter now.

I think its time for a balance and rotate. I'm getting a little vibration on my left front tire.

 

This one from here?
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=85910

Diode backwards?

 

Hmm, the coil circuit is pins 85/86. One is 12v and the other is usually ground. Either can be either/or. If I'm reading the diagram right, 12v gets applied to pin 86 which I grabbed directly from the thick blue wire at the switch which I confirmed to be constant 12v and fused it. The other side, gets grounded by the negative lock command from the Viper. I didn't grounded it to the black/white from your post. Maybe I need to go back and do that. I may try again in a day or so. Getting the door panel off for easier access is not difficult at all.

The diagram I used has 12v going to pin 85 instead but again, it shows the other side grounded with the lock command.



I used this diagram, the wire colors for the detection, lock and unlock are the same. Hmmmm.

 

No, I made sure the diodes were facing the right away. The little line on the diode is supposed to face toward the alarm/remote start. I been reading several posts on the 12volt website to try and figure it out.