What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

What did the nappy arms run? Each?

 

I can't remember. I'm tired. Let me check my email for receipt.

 

@FrenchToasty

 

I don't think I've seen Tundra lowers without bushings listed, could be wrong though.

Pressing new bushings in is pretty easy compared to removing though. A big enough vice, or a piece of 1/2" threaded rod will do it.

 

Current pricing with the discount code if anyone is in need.

 

Damn! Lol, that's okay. I ordered all these parts, and then got the call that I was going back to work the day after ordering. .

Parts have been stacking up like @bmf4069.

 

Any aftermarket arm has bushings installed already.

 

Here's a good video on cutting off the lower control arms. Mine are stuck on my sequoia so I'll be doing this someday. Multiple sources recommend the same Sawzall blades he used.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGOt96PgYRE

 

You won't regret it, it's a labor of love and the truck's worth it.

 

Don’t use the Passanger door much but noticed the other day it was pulling out here


Pulled the door panel off

found this bolt missing laying at the bottom of the inner door. Put it back in with a little blue loctite, put the panel back on. Took about 30 min to fix.

Should be good for another 15 years.

 

Just curious, why replace the wiring harness, and does it look difficult? I'm wondering if I should do the same on my engine rebuild but if it's hundreds of dollars I don't wanna.

 

The alternator clip is damaged. Its seized in the alternator. I didn't like the idea of just splicing a new end on it.

I was going to link you the product but it looks like I got the last one that was made...



https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-battery-cable-821220c010


You will need to find the V8 harness. If it weren't for that busted alternator clip I wouldn't bother replacing it. I'm not a guru though.

 

That's what I'm expecting too. I read that headers that are correctly tuned (like the JBA shorties) are supposed to really help prevent power loss and promote that one way flow.

A huge driving factor for doing that mod is to prevent having to put a new header in for a fourth time.

If a lot of power is lost, I might have to get the engine retuned or maybe slap some light high flow chonks in.

 

With the absence of cats, you could start using Super High Zinc Racing Oil in your engine as there would be no worries of ruining them.

 

Put a bunch of miles on it with a last minute trip down to St. Louis. Drove great. Handles the hills and excessive speeds without issue and the 8+ hours in it was comfortable as usual. For both of us.




Got home. Started to check out some final brake adjustment checks and found I’m suddenly missing a bolt on the driver bell crank.




Ran it through the car wash and I’m already seeing the beginnings of the brine on the side streets. Looks like they’re tying to be ahead of the game for Saturday’s storm.

Have a tarp. Gonna pick out some gross clothes and tomorrow I’m going to attempt the Fluid Film over my lunch break. I figure even a quick and dirty job will be better than none at this point.

 

I'm in Ontario we use Krown all the service vehicles, fire department police use it. It's a pretty good product

 

@Outbound

 

This is great lol

 

#TROOF

 

Pretty much...

Snow's comin'...I'm ready this year

 

Got the welded up and super reinforced shorty back today. If this breaks now then I have a serious issue somewhere.


Here's an untouched one for reference:

 

This pic threw me for a loop for a sec. I was like what the hell version of the Tundra is that? Why do it got crosseyed headlights and then I was like....oh.

 

Is your catalytic converter stock ? I wonder is somehow its creating a high pressure point on the first weld there. Are all the exhaust components tight and hung snug ? Like any missing rubbers that are causing anything to shack up and down ?

In your case i would undo everything and start piece by piece putting it back together and find the pinch point

 

I need to do headers. They’re jacking cats out here again. Sooo probably going Catless when. I do them.. I don’t want my shit hacked up

 

If you get rid of the cats what do you need to stop getting o2 codes ?

 

Love that map, but gotta point out that in interior Alaska, the roads are not salted. In Fairbanks we drove on packed snow and the city put coal slag ( little rocks ) on the intersections which iced up. Much less rust than my New England home now, more cracked windshields.

 

Yeah my cats are stock. They went to two huge ones in 05 rather than the 4 that are in the older ones (I believe).

I'm planning on pulling apart my entire system and replacing all the gaskets for that reason.

I got ahold of some discontinued URD O2 simulators from a guy. If those don't work, I might try those ebay O2 sensor spacers that have their own little personal cat to make them read right. My third attempt would be to make my own simulator for cheap. They're are a few tutorials on youtüb.

 

They have salt trucks where I live, but they fill them with dirt to shmear on the roads and wish everyone luck lol

 

I’ve seen the universal o2 sims on URDs site, are these discontinued ones specific to the tundra/4.7l?

 

Towed about 4500 lbs today (total gross). Average speed 40mph on the Island Roads. Ambient temps 65° and the Transmission Temp peaked at 161°.

The 93 Octane felt boosty on half a tank. Made sure to gun it a few times for testing purposes.

Greased my ball prior and added some Electrical Goo to the tow plug.