What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I covered those other 2 holes recently. I wasn't sure why they came uncovered while Toyota put those patches on the others.

 

Do you think this is what you had going on?

Ground-Switched Systems

Many Japanese vehicles, as well as some others, use a "ground-switched" headlamp circuit: the headlamp and beam selector switches make or break the ground leg of the headlamp circuit, rather than the feed leg. On these systems, make sure to use both the negative and positive existing headlamp wires to trigger the relays. It is tempting to run the existing headlamp feed wire to relay terminal 86 (trigger feed) and simply find a convenient ground for relay terminal 85 (trigger ground). However, this will not work with ground-switched systems. Run the vehicle's existing feed wire to terminal 86, and run the vehicle's existing ground wire to terminal85.

But what are we going to do now we've used our one and only ground wire on the 85 terminal of the low beam relay, but we still have to install the high beam relay? Go to the other side of the car and you have another ground wire! Remember, the relay trigger circuits can be as long as you like, because they take insignificant power. So you can extend the vehicle's existing headlamp wires to your relay mounting location. It is fine to use this method regardless of whether you have a ground-switched system or not, so go ahead and use it if you're not sure.

Toyota-Built Vehicles

Toyota's headlamp circuitry is unusual. It's usually ground-switched, but there's more to it than that. It's not wrong or bad or anything, it's just different to the way other automakers do it. If you don't account for these differences when configuring your relay installation, you'll get operational quirks and irritants. Your high-beam indicator light won't work correctly, the high beams won't switch off when you select low beam—that kind of thing. To avoid these problems, you'll need to include some diodes and resistors as shown in this next diagram (which is for a 2-lamp system, but the principle applies to any headlamp system configuration). Get them locally or online from an electronics supply house. R1 is an 8-ohm, 2-watt resistor. D1 and D2 are silicon diodes with at least 2-amp rating and at least 50v peak inverse current rating.

 

My family poured water on my paper gasket for my rear end and it shrunk too much when it dried. I ended up tearing it and had to go to the stealership to order a new one.


While there, I decided I would install new wheel seals since I have the rear end pulled apart a second time. I tried PHM's 2" PVC method, but I boofed one of the new seals since I didn't properly get the seal started by hand


I dug around and found a 2"1/8 socket that fit so perfect that I would be a fool not to use it. I got one seal in and I'm going to pick up the second when I get my new paper gasket in tomorrow.

 

I wish I cleaned my underbody before I started this project. I'm getting the urge to do a PHM featherdust after dealing with all this sand.
Heck, I even have 3/4 of a big PB blaster can for the frame when it's clean.

 

10 leafs total in that pack? Holy moly

 

Finding surprises when working on another project. Hmmm

 

Re-did my alignment, less camber & more caster.

 

Hows the drive? Feel better?

 

Yeah, it feels better. A little less vague when going straight and slightly more feedback in the first 20° or so of turning the steering wheel.

These aren't stock specs fyi.

The drivers side front adjuster is maxed out. I could get more caster but then I'd start adding camber. Granted, anything below -1° camber is more than fine.

 

@Tundra2 and I discussed this when he was at my house. We couldn't figure why his frame has so much rust since they don't salt that often in KY. We came to the suspicion that dirt might play a factor. I almost wonder if a layer of dirt helps trap moisture. When I got back from beach driving I was amazed at how much sand made it into the box portion of my frame.

My point is, it might be a good idea to preasure wash the undercarriage once or twice a year. If nothing else, it will help uncover any rust and let you address it.

Didn't you just replace that steering rack in the last year?

 

x2. Also curious what you have for springs, @Thrussn

 

@FirstGenVol mud certainly does cause rust, especially if the dirt you're flinging is high in iron content.

 

100% agree here. My section of Kentucky does not salt heavily, and my truck was sold in Hopkinsville. Its been local 98% of its life excluding trips. Its spent about a week in VA/Western VA, about a week in Ohio.

My frame was filthy when I pulled the bed.

Here is what I consider extensive rust damage to critical areas.

^^^^ Cross member that goes over the front of the gas tank i think?

^^^^ front drivers side leaf mount.

^^^^ drivers side frame by transmission crossmember.

Inside the front of the frame by bumper mounts.

^^^drivers side

^^^^ pass side.
Here is what the rear looked like when I was done.



I think that if I had been cleaning my frame annually it wouldn't have been this bad.

 

Oh, here's a picture of the front when I got done with it. No painting here. Just pressure wash, and grease rub.


My shock bucket had some small rust holes in it.

 

They're the Deaver g57 springs if I recall correctly. They're actually softer than the original springs and they are more offroad oriented. The droop is insane. I have to lift the body over 2ft before the wheels lift off the ground.

Here's a pic from when I installed them earlier this year


I also added air bags with those daystar saddles to help when I tow. They are fantastic!

 

You've inspired me. I'm definitely dedicating a lot of my future time to getting all the trapped sand out of all my nooks and crannies. Probably on my Tundra too.

 

I dig that setup, did they squat as much as stock or more before the bags?

 

@Tundra2 I have a little bit of rust in those same places. The owner of Archive Garage said that spot where the frame overlaps is a killer of these frames. I thought about putting some OSPHO on those spots but haven't done it yet.

 

Tightened down the new battery, went for a test drive and broke in the brakes. They weren't as responsive as I'd hoped so when I got home I jacked the truck up and re-adjusted the rear drums. Couldn't get the ATF up to temp (peaked at 80F) in the time I had, so tomorrow I'll re-attempt during the daytime, when it's not 30 out. I'm suppose to drop it off in the morning to get the windows retinted and the stickers off the back window. So I guess I better get up early and get it done.

 

Custom fab sliders incoming

 

I sprayed ospho in those cracks, delaminations, and rusty areas with a squirt bottle. Waited for it to fully dry, and then packed it with as much grease as I could get in there by hand.

I'm hoping that was enough to last me for a while. A long while...

Right now is not the time for my frame to snap...

That would be my luck though.

 

For some reason the passengers side was just better all the way around. In the picture below you can see the frame over lap has not delaminated yet.


@Thrussn. It won't hurt to clean your butt crack, and get all the sand out. Best to do the Tundra too. Chicken grease on crack, and any ole grease on the Tundra. I looked for Moly-B but AutoBones was fresh out at the time.

Used regular grease in the tub, not tube. Took two of them. I was under the truck yesterday for oil change.

These spots where I wire wheel are still bare metal under neath the grease. Its doing its job.


This is 6 months later now? Still looks like this with the bare metal spots, and holes...

 

Definitely more squat than stock. I have a trailer with an empty tongue weight close to 1000lbs and it went straight to the bump stops (which I also upgraded lol)

 

Also, it just crossed my mind. Should I put some oil or grease on the new seals where they contact the axle shaft? Or will the sauce in the diff provide the lubrication on the axle shaft race thing?

I'd love to hear back from someone on their experience.

 

Bacon Grease?

 

I'm also interested in hearing about this - as well as any other general advice others may have with doing the seals and bearings. My driver's side seal went out completely the other day so I'm going to do re-do both sides, also decided I'm trading my drums for discs while I'm there and dealing with it all.

 

I found a video on youtube. A guy in the comments said a little grease on the friction surface will help prevent the seal from burning out. No idea how true it is, but I figure a little silicone paste won't hurt anything.

Rear disks are a goal of mine, but not financially attainable at the moment. I'd love to see your experiences with your conversion.

 

Ditto on feed back.

 

Thanks, appreciate it. I've watched a few videos and it seems fairly straight forward.

As for the disk swap, I'll try to take some pictures and share my experiences once it's all done. They have been planned for awhile but definitely didn't expect to do them so soon, neither did the wallet. I think if I tell myself "buy once, cry once" enough I'll be okay. I have heard good things about the SOS performance kits so I went with their kit. Putting in the larger master cylinder too. I have to source some Sequoia parking brake shoes and some pads/ rotors which won't be a big deal. I have my original 13WL calipers stored in my garage so I'll reuse those. They're not red so they won't match the front calipers...

 

Yes, if dry. Some OEM seals come pre-greased, Honda is good for doing this.

Just wet a finger with gear oil and rub around the contact surfaces after installing the seal.