What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Got a check engine light for P0171 so looks like I’ll be replacing my damn O2 sensor again.

 

Refresh us on the last time it was replaced. Why has it gone bad so quickly again?

 

*blah it was a gif of Creed cussing you out*

 

Almost a year to the day, I just used a cheap O2 last time so I’m assuming it just died. However it could be the post cat O2 which looks original to me. When I check the p0171 code all I can gather is steam 1 lean.

 

Test the Rear o2 with a meter. They are easy to test. Mine were zero resistance. No CEL, though.

The front and backs are about $45 each for the Densos.

 

Haha ok will do, does it matter what pins you measure for resistance or just any 2?

 

As the hand model boasts, and I agree; try to stick to oem branded parts, the conjoining forces of mojo create a unbeatable combo

 

I think there are three/four pins iirc. I erased the pics from my history with the FSM spec and don’t feel like finding it. You’ll probe two pins.

 

The oil frame squirter. Works well with 0w-20. Might move up in viscosity.

 

Mine looks the exact same. Rust in the box channel portion where they overlap.

 

Yeah. I’m trying to flood those crevices so it soaks those weld/contact points all the way down. PB Blasts up in there pretty good with the Heavy Squirt Can. I’m trying to get some oil up in there now. Think I’ll back up onto the ramps and let gravity work its magic after a dousing in there. Need some type of stiff but flexible hosing to attach on the tip of my squirter and shove in the crevice from long distance.

 

Confirmed the u-joint cap Kilter is normal as the opposite side looks the same by design. I’d hate to have to replace those joints. Looks like torture to me.

 

I know you aren't a fan of F.F but I bought one of these this year. I used it to get up into the box portion of the frame. It should last a long time and not wash off like other areas. I wonder if it would attach to other cans like your PB blast...



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluid-Film...-Use-With-Fluid-Film-spray-cans-/184410337834

 

P0171 is not affected by the rear sensor at all. You either have an vacuum leak, an exhaust leak before the front sensor or a dead front sensor

 

Yeah I’ve seen those. I’m able to use PB Big Blaster Can and get about the same 360° ‘splash and wash’ result going in through the frame holes. The Big can has a super long shot power action compared to the smaller cans.

I don’t thing that wand would work on my Squirter. I’ll look and maybe find something on the side of the street for free.

 

I have a slight tick from a cracked manifold when it’s cold but goes away when warm. Could that cause it by chance?

 

Got these bad boys installed today. Also removed my rear mud flaps after noticing I pretty much demolished one on my last outing.

 

Material looks pretty thick to be using a dimple die on.

 

slim chance. to tell you need to have a scan tool that can graph the output of the front sensor. something that looks like a mountain range is an exhaust leak. a nice looking sine wave is what the sensor should be putting out

 

Drums and shoes replaced? Check. Breaks greased? Check. Oil change? Check. New rotors, calipers, pads, lines, cylinders? Check, check, check, check, and check. ATF drain and fill? Check. O2 sensors? Check. Tires torqued? Check. Crossmember installed? Check. Brakes bled? Check. Check.

All the in and out killed the 5.5yr old battery and when you were finally ready to start the thing, you can’t? Check.

 

Good time to up them CCA's from 640 (although I think original spec is 585). Bummer on no victory lap after all that hard work!

 

My hole in the resonator is throwing a 02 code at me because of airflow from the back and its changing the lean of the air

 

I flushed all fluids including brake, power steering, coolant, transmission and oil change.

 

Its 1/8". Thinnest the yard had when I went. The dies will do 3/16"

 

How did you come to that conclusion?

 

The code came after my resinator exploded form getting new headers .

Then I thought it was just a bad 02 sensor so I switched them from driver side to passenger side and the code did not change.

If it switched sides you know it's a bad 02 sensor

 

Copy that, thanks!

 

Mocked up my new BRUTEFORCE FAB rock sliders!

 

shouldnt. the exhaust pressure keeps things from flowing back into the exhaust to mess with readings. the only time a leak affects a sensor past it is if its really close and causes a funky venturi effect

 

Seems there is some restriction causing back pressure in the system if you blew a hole in your resonator. New headers will certainly increase airflow, but you have to build pressure in the resonator in order to blow it out. Sounds like your truck is demanding to be straight piped.