What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Wait, what?
They're replacing the ball joints under a recall? That's still a thing??

 

Thanks for the link. I'll stick this in my notepad thread for future reference.

Most of these kits have the water pump WITH the oil cooler nipple. As far back as I can remember, or at least since I've been doing the maintenance all the water pumps I've seen on my truck haven't had that extra nipple.

Maybe I've got the wrong water pump which knowing pops is entirely possible. I glanced at the field service manual for oil cooler location/diagram. I'm not saying its not there, but I was skimming. I'll look again when I have more time.

The only oil cooler I know for sure i have is the one for the ATF.

 

Guess what happened to the same weld on the same side header yesterday

I'm gonna have this one welded by a really good welder I know and see if he'd be able to reinforce that bend.

What else can I do to prevent this from happening ever again? Shorten the nearest exhaust hanger by a tiny bit?

 

Is that the same side JBA just replaced? That really sucks.

 

What brand are those bad boys?

 

It's JBA. They replaced the first one about 2 months ago and then this new one cracked in the exact same place as the first.

 

That sucks dude. And are they the longs or shorts? I hope mine don’t do the same!!

 

Do you park outside? I'm wondering if its a stress crack due to high heat, and then really cold cold?

 

it is if it never got done?
i think someone other than toyota replaced them already?

 

Hmm. Maybe. It happened both times while driving on a bumpy road. Nothing crazy at all this time though. I recall reading about how a cracked manifold was pretty common due to poor design resulting in too much weight on the driver's side or something. I wonder if I can add an extra hanger or cut and shorten/tighten the one that's closest to where it cracked .

 

Are your engine mounts good? Engine bouncing around too much?

 

Damn I can't believe that happened again.

 

Yeah they're solid. The engine doesn't even budge when I rev it.

You're telling me haha. I found a guy on facebook selling just a driver's side JBA manifold for $200 and he took my offer of $100. It has that ceramic or chrome finish unlike my passenger side so that will be funny looking lol.

I'm going to inspect the exhaust hangers and stuff later tonight to see if something clearly wrong is up

 

In November of 2019 I started a thread saying I thought I was losing a small amount of coolant. The advice given was to get it to operating temp and fill to the full line which is what I did. 13 months later and this is the amount I've lost. Or so it appears. I've only driven around 9,000 miles.

I remember reading it's not uncommon for even new water pumps to leak. I wouldn't be able to see that unless I remove the timing cover right? My water pump has 31k miles on it.

There are no visual leaks and no obvious signs of head gasket issue. Should I just keep an eye on it and not worry too much?

 

It's diluted with 1/2 water right? If yes, then that could simply be evaporation...even in a "closed" coolant system there is an opportunity for a little evaporation. I wouldn't sweat that....no pun intended.

 

I haven't looked at mine lately but I know coolant shrinks when weather gets cold enough. Might just be that.

 

Yes I bought the pre mixed 50/50 Zerex. I didn't dilute it myself.

I noticed it even this summer that it was lower but it has gotten a bit lower in the past few weeks when the temperature dropped.

 

I've got a leaky rear wheel oil seal on my 01 Sequoia. I've looked through the FSM for the oil seal depth and the page doesn't help much. It looks like I just drive it in until flush, does that look correct? (FSM attached)

 

Fixed this:



For $80 (not 101 as I previously posted) Donovan Spring made me a replacement leaf, including U-Bolts, center pin, and silencer pads. Great to deal with, and a local business.



The U-Bolts didn't budge with the impact, so I hit 'em with the grinder, center pin as well. Rest of the old pack came out easy:



Spent a little time wire wheeling, oiling, and painting things while in there.


The sole PITA in this job was getting the axle to line up directly under the new center pin so it could drop into its home. This is definitely a result of working on a soft surface, a wheeled floor jack on concrete would have made that part a cake walk. I used a high lift at an angle and a BFH to find the right spot, with the truck's weight on jack stands of course. Great video on the subject, he doesn't say it, but we all know what the truck is.

All together, added the spring clamps @chrisb suggested:



I'd taken it for one drive between greasing up the driveshaft slip joint and doing this leaf repair, and the driveshaft had completely eliminated my clunk. With the spring fixed, clamps in, and shaft all greased up (just slipped that in there didn't I?) the truck is solid no matter how hard I mash the skinny or the fat pedal. Real happy with it.



I popped the drum off while waiting for some paint to dry and found that the reason my parking brake won't work is a broken cable in there. Looks like I'm going to be in the drum rebuild club, but I'm soon going to run out of Important Maintenance and have time for cosmetic and upgrade things. Looking forward to it, but this one might be my last truck project before an upcoming deployment.

 

Nice work @Arringtonpalmer
Ratchet straps also do the trick for centering the axle. I had to loop one from the axle to my tow hitch to get it centered when I replacement my leaf springs. If you have to pull it forward the cross members work.

Love seeing work get done at home.

 

Yes. I used a 2” PVC fitting as the drive to tap the seal flush into the hole. Get it started lightly with your thumbs then lightly tap with a short handled wide hammer/maul. Tap until you hear a different ‘sound’ indicating you’ve hit the rim.

 

You can remove your skid plate and look up to the WP bottom to obtain a good angle of the ‘designed weep hole’. If no leaky crusties, then you are losing fluid somewhere else (assuming your engine is at operating temp as of that picture). A little over one year and my fluid never budged through all seasons.


Top it off again to the F (when hot) and monitor it.

 

I'd look at adding flex pipes after the manifold and before the cats.

There probably is a bevel where the seal goes in, you want it flush with the rear or inside edge of the bevel typically. Usually only about 2mm deep.

The bevel is there to allow easier installation of the seal.

 

Now I need to add flex pipes to my cart!

 

Anyone consider those Doug Thorley Headers?

 

I have had Thorleys on my Tacoma for over a decade, 100% route im going should I ever discover a cracked manifold. I keep checking/ hoping! Haha

 

No action yet but guess this means I can finish my bumper and move on to some sliders

 

Hey all, did a little preventive maintenance today. New fuel filter, pcv valve and diff breathers on our 04 Sequoia.

Got a question for you 2UZ pros, 140k miles on her. Looking over the engine I noticed some coolant crust built up on something in the valley just in front of the starter, drivers side. Hoping this isn't a freeze plug failing?


Engine bay shot, if you're in to that sort of thing.

 

Did a trans drain and fill today. Was exactly 3qts. Hardest part was waiting for the trans temp to get up to 115F to check the level. Old fluid didn’t look too bad considering it’s been about 85k as best I can tell.



Old


New


Finished in around an hour so got talked into replacing the old kitchen sink afterward



Weather’s gorgeous so I ended the day with a few IIPAs on the lanai. A pretty good day overall.



Talking now with jhuey about getting a katzkin kit. Should be an awesome upgrade.