What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Rotated tires this morning, greased my upper ball joint, noticed my front coil over bushings are cracked; I’ll have to keep an eye on them. And my brakes are very soon on the short list, wear groove is almost gone. I will order new front hardware as currents are pieced together and just pieces of looped wire to hold the slide pins. Might order wheelers brakes lines during their dark Friday sale

 

Got home yesterday from my vacation to find my Skidrow order had arrived (super fast shipping!). Unfortunately, 1 item wasn't in stock so got about 2 week wait for that one (transfer case plate). Installed them today. Very nice quality. Fitment was good. I had one issue with the transmission plate since my cross member has some damage to it but made it work.

Oh, and I found another issue while installing......looks like high angle cv boots are in my very near future!

 

I wish they were tied in, but they do look good.

 

Crawled under the truck for inspection. Noticed a slight red drop under the Steering Pump at the suction hose. Tightened that snake clamp down an 1/8th turn. Same thing happened on the snake clamps a few years ago at the reservoir where you keep tweaking until it stops.

I’d buy new hoses and clamps, but each OEM hose is about $60-70 each plus about $10 in Toyota Clamps. Fuggetaboutit! I’ll wait till they get really bad which looks to be a long time.

Feather dusted a bit in the bay, as its been a while. Noticed some muddy foot prints in a few places which indicates maybe a rodent got up in there looking for a home. Peeked inside the starter area for any evidence of nesting. Negative. I rubbed my essence around in a few areas to let them know who is boss.

 

Niiice. Hopefully you got the discount and free shipping when you ordered them!

 

You have any pics of the coil over bushings cracks?

 

It was easier to see with the wheel off.

 

I did! Came out to like $825.

 

Looks like you got a C.E.L.

 

Changed the oil, ATF, replaced some bolts, the upstream O2's and pissed off the Hand Model Gods today.

 

Thanks. P0420, and whatever the shift solenoid E code is.

I've given up on both. Truck still runs, amd drives just fine.

Only solution I can think of for P0420 is complete exhaust rebuild or remove the cat. Ky does not do emissions testing so I could technically get away with it legally.

 

Today I felt like my tires were rubbing a little much and running a little too close to the upper balljoint/knuckle and decided to try a different wheel.
Placed an order for a set of SCS F5 wheels with 0mm offset. Should sit better than the Tacoma wheels with +25mm offset. As an added bonus, they’re also a couple pounds lighter than the Tacoma wheels.

 

Went out last night around midnight and started tying in my relay box, ditch lights, and prepping for switches.



I've had all I can stand of this cold weather tonight. I have something wonky in the wiring, or I'm not understanding everything because I'm tired. Either way, I disconnected the hot wire I ran until I have time to revisit.

Can anyone suggest to me a better way of running the wires under the hood between the lights?

Maybe inside the hood?



The thicker insulation of the 16 AWG wires is getting pinched by the hood between the cowl/hood. So are the Muyi connectors. The 22 AWG wires I ran for the hood lights are still okay.

Anyone have any input here?

 

I would drill into the hood on each side, put a rubber grommet on it and then fish the wires through it. My $.02.

 

Did an oil, oil & fuel filter change on mine, running like a champ. The bigger job was my son's 2002 4Runner that badly needed brakes. He bought all the parts to do the Tundra brake upgrade himself. So we bled all the old fluid out of it, tore it apart, installed the Tundra rotors, calipers & pads, bled the system and then put the wheels back on. Except we didn't because the wheels didn't fit. Turns out my son's wheels were 15" instead of 16". So onto craigslist where we found a set of 16" takeoffs from a 2020 Tacoma. Virtually brand new wheels, tires & lugs for $750. Rig looks great and stops on a dime but kid is still smarting from the extra money he had to pay out. Boneheaded move for sure, must have gotten it from his mother because I never did stupid stuff like that when I was 19.

 

Painted my rims finally, should look good enough with my tires I get tomorrow. At least until I have the funds to get the methods I want!

 

Ordered a grommet kit. You mean through the Top of the hood straight down? Or the sheet metal underneath?

 

So this was delivered today.
I really wish the Airaid piece had been available. The inside of the tube is pretty smooth, but has some weird shapes in it.
It also relocates the MAF sensor to the tube and I'm not super stoked on that. I really thought the damned thing left the MAF alone since it uses the stock airbox.
It came with some slick sheet of paper in there claiming 10hp. Not sure what sorcery is in this tube and [huge] filter to be GUARANTEEing a 10hp gain.
I'll get it installed this week and report. Hell, I may even take pictures.

 

MFin wizards!!!!

 

I wonder if we just undid our throttle body/air pipe connection for just a short time and test drove the truck with unrestricted air flow if we’d feel a ‘10 HP increase’? If not, I don’t think any kind of air box is going to help?

 

Agreed.
I bought this contraption hoping to combine it with the DD 12-holey boys to improve fuel economy and a sprinkle of power and throttle response.

 

I did see that reviewers say they saw better mpg on that air filter. The 12 Ports will stoke you in a different manner most likely in shifting dynamics and a smoother engine which were my initial observations.

 

Code 4:20 usually indicates that it's time to load up and hit that $#!+. Legal here in NV....

 

Ruby boobie, roll a doobie!

 

I took mine for a spin to work last night since my Ford was loaded down with shed building materials that I didn't get a chance to unload. It felt sluggish to me. Maybe I'm just used to the EcoBoost turbos in my Ford. (Flame suit on, LOL). This morning I threw premium in it and gave it the beans a little bit on the way home.

 

You could run the wire under the plastic cowl instead of across the hood between the two pods. you could run the power feed through the drivers side fender if its getting pinched where it meet with the driver's side pod. Then all the wire is stealthy and not able to get pinched.

 

My Archive shock relocation kit arrived today. Now I gotta find a spot in the garage to put it for a while.

 

Kentucky goes like this...

I'll have to experiment with this. I still have about 80 feet of wire so I have more than enough for trial, and error. Lol

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Why do you need to relocate the shocks?