What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

They definitely were when I lived in Houston.

 

I.
still need to figure out how to turn mine on anytime

 

Jus type in tail gates to your local craigslist

 

Did a little painting for piece of mind. Partially to protect the recently cut sheet metal form rust, partly in vanity. It could've been better but I don't care I'll probably do the flares next. I'm just glad to have this off my mind and to see how well under the tail gate looks now. So much cleaner.

 

Looks good. Like you, I painted/bedlined black that gapped area under the tail gate. Looks so much better. More so with a white truck as your eye isn’t drawn there.

 

Got the rear Dever AAL and Fox 2.0s swapped out on the rear end. Back is raised up so it's sitting higher than the front again. Now I'm ready to get my new tires and wheels mounted and an alignment done.

 

@TomGreen

 

@Professional Hand Model the new intake under the cowl is noticeable, especially at over 3k and on down shifts. Cruising around casually I do not notice it, though. I'd avoid routing it under the cowl if you are trying to keep noise down.

 

Thank you for the feedback.

 

Changed my gas cap for a genuine Toyota one and cleared the check engine light. Went for a drive to the next town for a Home Depot run, about 15 miles on street and freeway back with no light yet.

 

So what's the reason for this mod?

 

I had to do this about a year ago

 

i think he lives under the sea with sponge bob, so this allows him to drive in deep water. Also, try breathing out of a straw that is only a inch long, then try to breath out of one that is 20’ long. Which one is easier on your lungs?

 

Primary reasoning was due to the factory intake tube fully exposed after I pulled the inner fender liner to clear 35s. I wanted to route it to a more enclosed area where water wasn't of much concern.

 

I understand that reasoning, air filter will get clogged right away with no liner

 

I don't know

 

Not hard. Just clip the feed wire to the fog lights and tap into the accessory circuit.

 

Yeah but I don't know which wires and where they are lol

 

It was dry enough in between the rain that I was able to adjust the drums, parking brake cable and do 2 turns up on the proportioning valve (for now). Brakes went from 1-2" of travel before firming up to about .5-1", much better. Decided not to go further on the proportioning valve adjustment as I haven't driven it with the drum adjusted properly yet.




I also decided on what route I wanted for the fog light mod. Decided to try a slightly different setup than the usual anytime mod. Used 2 diodes, heat shrink and some connectors. The diodes are needed to isolate the low and high beams, to make them work without triggering both low & high beams at the same time.



Tucks right into the corner of the column cover with no problems.

 

Depends on where you want to tie in. You can do it at the kick panel or in the column.

Colors may be dependant on year. I haven't looked at 00-03' diagrams but 04-06' I can help with.

 

Colors seemed to be all over the place when I did this mod / info provided online. Even same year / trims had different colors. I may have spliced multiple wires trying to find the right one

I like your wiring, though. Very clean.

 

Sweet I have an 05

 

SC & AC are the same typically, DC usually different. Engine and manual or auto sometimes plays a role too, depending on what harness you are trying to work with.

Thanks.

Ah. Same year as mine. If yours isn't a double cab you probably have the same setup as mine

04-06, Non-DC


Pin11. Red w/yellow stripe is the feed to the fog light switch.

To do this at the switch like I did, look at the connector from the wire side with the locking tab facing up. Pin 11 is on the bottom row, 3 over from the right. If you have good eyes there are some raised numbers to help you figure out the #'s molded into the connector.

Cut the wire and connect it to either an ACC or IGN 12v+ source. ACC source on the ignition harness is Blue w/red stripe and will work to tap into. It is a larger gauge wire and you will need 10-12ga 'yellow' taps, where-as the smaller headlight wiring can use the 18ga+ 'red' connectors (or blue if you twist the wires and fold them over).


Use a good crimper, not one of those crap all in one stripper/crimper/cutter. Like these:








Do NOT cut the top row Red w/yellow stripe on pin 7 on the top row. Or no more low beams.

 

Added a water proof connector on the light bar.

$9 MUYI 10 Kit 2 Pin Waterproof Connector for 20-14 AWG Wire Harness 2.5mm Series Automotive Electrical Plugs with Replacement Terminal Pins Sockets and Spudger

Link.

 

not a bad idea. but you know what i do because im a cheap bastard? junkyard toyota OEM connectors.

 

I'm returning to cheapdom again.

Not many junkyards that aren't a good day trip for me. Rather spend the extra saved time working, or resting.

 

Lol, more like you have easy access to a Toyota junkyard. I'd be all over it, too.

 

I have these throughout the 4runner
I like them

 

You the man

 

Somebody else gets it!

These are sweet. I realized that I pinned them incorrectly. I put the male pins inside the male connector instead of how they are "shown." Not sure if it would matter, but I'll sign out a pin pushout tool from work, and correct it.

This is per the Big Gurll advert. Female pins on the right go in the male connector.

I'm liking these too minus my goof up. Seems like a quality aftermarket connector. I'll be using these for all of my aftermarket lights.