What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Jack rear up on jackstands. Put in neutral. Rotate the wheel by hand and tighten adjuster until it just starts to make a noise indicating pad contact with the drum (very faint scrape/scratching noise). Not enough contact to actually stop or slow the wheel.

 

Which a properly adjusted Parking Brake Cable System will do automatically.

 

Ideally, but in practice it isn’t always the case. Rolling the truck backwards slowly and engaging the parking brake usually get it to work all the time

 

FINALLY solved the rear pop/clunk!!

So...got the carrier bearing and U-Joints replaced after (incorrectly) landing on this being the culprit. All the posts made sense, it added up. I only ended up paying $115 at a local driveshaft shop so at least I can’t kick myself too much. Plus, it feels tighter, might just be my mind trying to justify it. Anyway...

It did NOT stop the stupid pop/clunk in the I’m getting in the rear when taking off from a stop.

Naturally, MONTHS of searching and finding nothing finally produced results within 5 minutes of pulling in the garage from replacing the carrier bearing and u-joints.

Stumbled upon a YouTube video, while my truck was still running no less, that finally confirmed the annoying sound: rivets on the subframe above the spare tire are loose and the subframe pops when it flexes.

Removed the spare tire and confirmed it’s the exact sound. It all finally makes sense. When I punch it from a stop or from a stop and turning, it flexes just enough for the subframe to pop bc there’s just barely movement with the rivets.

Now that I know my driveshaft isn’t about to explode, I can deal with it bc removing those rivets is not worth it. Still annoying, but I can finally unclinch while driving on the highway.

 

Only problem with that is if the drums where removed and then reinstalled AND IF the truck isn’t driven, then the shoes Mojo hasn’t found its Mojo. The Mojo shifts a little with driving and braking. Forward and backward stops set the Mojo. Then the Parking Brake Self Adjusts (and readjusts) with stepping on it a few times.

 

@Rex Kramer can you grab a picture of the filler neck with the gas cap off on your truck? I need to see if mines set right... it doesn’t appear to be abs I can’t remember what it use ti be like.

 

I'd like to thank everyone that's trying to help. I'm about to go out there and see what I can do.

That's the odd part. My parking brake works great. Especially after I took the slack out of the cable under the cab.

 

I understand this as that is what I did for quite some time before working out the kinks. Its not perfect, but it works. When the PB Cable works properly is a thing of beauty.

 

No slack at all?

The adjustment mechanism may not work properly. It has to come loose enough to pop over the next tooth on the star adjuster to actually auto adjust.

 

Are the little pins at your cranks seized? Is the Equalizer (two levers at the center of rear diff) working? Bushings at Equalizer shot?

Stars greased inside the drum?

 

Even if this doesn't solve my problem it confirms I probably didn't have the rear adjusted correctly. I was too cautious with them.

So many questions man! You would have been a good interrogator

I know the bell cranks work. Not sure about the rest.

 

Did you bench bleed the master?

 

I have not. I'm not sure if the shop did today or not but the guy was very helpful and he felt confident there was no air left. He thought it was an adjustment issue.

 

Another thing you can check is pull the parking brake cable while under the truck (grab it right where it goes into the drum) and see if you can hear the star adjuster clicking. If so, keep doing that until the pedal firms up (a lot).

If the parking brake adjustment doesn't fix it, I know you'll hate this advice, but I'd sell the 14WA calipers and go with 13WL.

 

Only reason I ask is because I’ve lived it. Not much more to do if you’ve covered all the bases. Sell the Big Brakes and move on.

 

I’d buy them

 

the LSPV is there for when you have more weight in the back (ei. towing a trailer, or a heavy payload). The truck will adjust more braking to the rear to compensate for the extra weight.

If you put a ton of weight in the back, the suspension lowers, causing the lever of the LSPV to go up. this increases rear brakes and gives a harder pedal IME.

It is the opposite when you have nothing in the bed, you have less braking pressure to the rears. That's why so many trucks with rear lift kits have soft pedals and weak brakes. They don't adjust the LSPV to compensate.

 

Hmmm I guess mine is right... just looks off to me

 

Well, I was able to improve it a little bit. The LSPV was pretty far up to start. I moved it up more and it didn't help. I moved it back down to where it's almost dead center and it seemed to help. I also adjusted the rear drums. I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to improve it any more but I'll keep making minor adjustments to see what works.

 

Besides diameter issue with MC sizing... your MC could have been borderline ready to fail and the seal finally gave up the ghost when bleeding it for your new calipers. It happens unfortunately.

 

Which seal would that be? Wouldn't I start losing fluid?

 

It's the piston seals inside the MC. You likely wouldn't see an external leak.

If really really bad sometimes they fill the booster with brake fluid, which means you should replace both. Unbolt the MC and slide it forward a little bit, away from the booster. If it is wet between the MC & booster time for a new MC.

If only the forward seal failed but not the rearward, there would be no external leak. But it would bypass internally and give a soft pedal.

 

There is a FSM brake test I’ve posted here quite a few times in which you’ll know what is or isn’t a problem.

 

Got to do a little something on the truck today

installed:


*spyder xtune smoked rear tails

*Diode dynamics smart tap flasher relay

*diode dynamics Red Xp80’s in taillights/brake lights

*diode dynamics Amber xp80’s in turn signals

*diode dynamcis Hp5’s in the license plate lights

Not sure on my reverse lights, they’re probably gonna suck they came with the tail lights as an add on but we’ll see

 

personally i run sylvania ZEVO reverse bulbs, been very happy with them

 

Been getting an intermittent code from bank 1 #2 O2 sensor circuit. Checked the wires, fuzeafuze, cleaned the connector this morning to rule out the circuit before replacing the sensor.

I also snapped this picture:

WTF do you guys think is holding that sensor on, good will? It looks to me that the nuts have rusted away, and there is just a little bit of something left holding it in place. Sensor is a denso, does not look that old, and does not move when I pull on it. I think I'm just going to order one and replace the nuts, these can throw a code if there is a leak right?

Also fluid filmed the entire undercarriage.

 

My old ones looked worse than yours and I believe they were original. They weren’t throwing codes, but I replaced them anyway as a precaution. When they were removed and tested on a Digital Meter they had Zero Resistance. Way out of Spec.

I replaced the fronts as well as they were Bosch. Wanted all 4 speaking Japanese. Total cost around $200. You can check my build page for the thread chaser and front sensor removal tools ($20).

Truck torque is amazing afterwards. Better MPG, too.

 

Looks like what mine started as.

Heres a link to the post way back on page 537.

The two 12mm nuts basically rusted into that. I almost thought it was a weld, but I was wrong. Thankfully.