What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Agreed. And in the past I've been able to make the pedal feel better by adjusting the rear. I've just got to figure out which way to go.

 

When was the last time you adjusted the shoes?

 

Thinking about whether to remove my flares or paint em black. Their paint is coming off every time I wash the truck.

 

I do

 

Just a few months ago. I may go out there and add a few more clicks to each side and mess with the prop valve.

 

I keep thinking of doing raptor liner on the flares and bumpers...

 

That reminds me, I've got to adjust mine a few clicks as well.

I also have to throw back on all the rubber caps onto my rear brake backplates, and put on caps for all the bleeder valves.

Hopefully, those adjustments will take out some of that mushy feel for you.

 

If you want, I'll ask on FB (If you aren't on there) in the group run by the guy who does these and see what he says...?

 

Yes that would be great. Please and thank you.

 

Done, I'll let you know how it goes...

 

First reply is adjust drums and LSPV...hopefully we'll get more.

 

Can you ask if my logic is right/wrong? Adjust LSPV down to force the new calipers to do more work? Or other way around?

I found PHM's old post that clarifies the direction "Find your Load Sensing Proportional Valve (LSPV) adjust it up about 3/4” and it will shift your braking bias to your rear breaks"

 

Did you adjust your lspv after installing the lift?

 

Couple of things worth repeating:

1) Adjust Nuts UP to make the rear brakes work more. Adjust DOWN to make rears work less.

2) Fix your parking brake/cables and you won’t need to do the clicks through the rear plates. I’ve shown the way on this multiple times. It just takes time and some finesse.

3) Do your homework before following advice here or elsewhere. I remember reading some stupid mods on another site from years past that made no sense. You’d see them post with no follow up and then the lemmings follow in behind and do the same! Consider the entire cost of the big picture.

@FirstGenVol sounds like tinkering with the edges won’t work for you. I see it a few ways:

1) Tinker with the edges and live with soft brake pedal.

2) Follow the g-hoff brake dudes advice as he probably has heard some negative feedback and hedged his brake sales with that disclaimer. Double D Booster and new cylinder is required. I remember posting up on the total cost back when these brakes were the rage after research. You’ll spend $1500 minimum to do it the right way. Still haven’t heard a good review on these brakes on this site that give me a good feeling. Seems like nothing but problems from my reading. Spongy pedal. Brake power not kicking in until last second. Sketch!

3) Buy a new OEM booster (single) and hope it fixes your problems. If not, then more $$$$ on top of more$$$$ to execute option 2.

4) Switch to WL13 Calipers if New OEM (single) Booster doesn’t make things better on the big brakes.

 

According to the service manual, lengthening the shaft decreases the brake pressure...

 

Yes. I've adjusted it twice to get it to what felt good in the past. The last time I made an adjustment it actually helped firm up the pedal a bit.

Right, been trying to make sense of the FSM.

 

I read that as; if you have low pressure, lengthen A. If you have high pressure, shorten A

 

Wasn't your pedal a bit soft to begin with? Makes me think there was already a problem and then the big brakes made it more noticeable. The only true fix I've heard of is the T100 master. That's what Geoff has posted on FB a few times.

 

No, not like this. It was soft for the first little bit of travel but then quickly hit a wall where you would feel them engage. I would say it was soft compared to other vehicles I've owned and our Rav4, but that seems to be common for our trucks. It is substantially worse now. During the course of ownership my pedal has had varying degrees of soft pedal but I've been able to tweak it with the rear drums or LSPV.

 

Lspv lever up will raise rear brake pressure

 

Soft first half of pedal is drum being out of adjustment. Mine grabs almost instantly. This will exaggerate the softer pedal from the new calipers

 

The above diagram shows what weight in the bed does to the valve arm. When the arm goes horizontal, then that sends more distribution of braking to the rear.

Adjusting the Nuts UP short cuts and mimics (by making arm horizontal) weight in the rear bed and makes the rear brakes work more. Its tricking the rears into thinking there is a load.

 

When lifted, the LSPV should be raised the same amount as the rear is lifted, this also helps keep it driving like stock. Lifting the rear and not adjusting it leads to less brake force in the back

 

Should the rear pads just barely be touching the drum or should there be a slight gap? I guess what I'm asking what "properly adjusted" looks like.

In the past I thought that if I can't pull the drum off then it meant I had them too tight, so I would back them off a hair to where the drum can be slid off.

 

Not today but...

Last week threw on a 10" or so shorty oem wire style antenna from my Tacoma. Since the Tacoma just sits.


Sunday I picked up a powered underseat subwoofer out of a Subaru for $6 + $2 entry fee at pick-n-pull. This only has a 5" or so woofer and a very low powered amp (5a fuse, 60w maybe?) so you can tie it directly into the radio wiring. It uses line level inputs, so just wire to the rear speaker wires. Located the stock amp, in the rear (why Toyota?) and wired the amp in.




Terrible placement. At least it made tapping in and running the wires relatively easy.


Front of seat, with it slid all the way back.


Rear of seat, slid all the way forward. Not visible but I had some adhesive velcro 1x1" squares, put the hook sides on the 4 bottom corners to help prevent sliding and 3 felt on the sides next to the seat track, just in case it moves.



It doesn't do much, not in comparison to prior setups I've had. 2x 12" kicker comp's in an Accord or the 2x 10" image dynamics in my Tacoma. But it does add just enough of that missing low end for now. Music is definitely more enjoyable. Plus it was <$10.

 

They should just barely drag

 

My rear drums will not come off the axle when they are adjusted with a properly adjusted parking brake.

I have to physically adjust the Star Adjuster loose to back the shoes AWAY from the drums to allow them to be removed.

The shoes, when properly adjusted, are damn close to the drum. Hairs distance.

 

Typically the drum won’t come
Off because of a lip that forms on the drum. Adjusting them in before removing the drum helps, but you want to adjust them to where they just barely drag the drum with the wheel on