What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I’m paying attention to this, my master is going. Also, I believe he’s asking how many mounting bolts for the master to the booster.

 

Yeah we need more info. The GX460 brake guy hit it and quit it. He dropped all these bread crumbs but never returned. @assassin10000 seems knowledgeable so hopefully he can help.

 

Both the Tundra and T100 appear to have 2 bolts to the booster.

 

Upon further inquiry, there seems to be more than one option for the T100.

 

I see a "1/2 ton" version with 2 bolts and a "1 ton" version with 4 bolts. The 1 ton is listed for without ABS. Then there's an ABS version with 4 bolts but no 1/2 or 1 ton designation. Confusing.

Has someone here done this conversion successfully and was there an appreciable benefit?

 

While relatively rare, T100s had an ABS option, so my understanding is if you get a T100 MC, it has to be the one for ABS if you have a Tundra with ABS.

 

Beat me to it...

 

Going into the archives for this one

 

@assassin10000 does seem to know his shit and hopefully he is educated in the ridiculous DC lspv that’s between the master and booster. Seems like there’s no way around buying a whole new master and booster for $800+. I’d like to upgrade to the t100 and ditch the lspv “adaptor”. I wonder if @jberry813 has any knowledge on the matter?

 

Nice! Homework for after work!

 

Thanks. I'm happy with how it worked. The trim piece is stock for a Sequoia (2006 I believe). Part of the reason I actually bought that center console was for that trim piece. I had to pull out my Dremel and grind down behind the blank cover a bit for the rocker switch to fit. The USB plug I found on Amazon for Toyotas and it popped right in without any grinding.

 

Read the TS thread, a bit incomplete, but shows that it is possible to swap in a T100 booster and MC. No review included on whether it helped at all or if there were any issues. Sounds like they had to machine some sort of adapter to make it work?

 

It's so weird that if you read through all that, it reads like Toyota downgraded the brakes for the newer and heavier and higher payload/tow rating new Tundra in 2000....it's a head scratcher...

This is from a 1998 T100 owners manual....I did not know the T100 had a 1-ton option....I would imagine it would have beefier brake components for sure...

https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om-s/OM34412U/pdf/OM34412U_edited.pdf

 

It's amazing the rabbit holes we have to go down just to make simple upgrades to our trucks. If I am understanding this correctly, you can't just replaced the MC, you have to do the booster as well.

 

Ethan1911 installed a MC and booster from a 79 F-350

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...1st-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-35#post-773357
https://www.tundras.com/threads/06-double-cab-build.28716/

 

A sacrilegious move but I won't judge since his truck is black.

 

Just had a thought, way back when Toyota offered a TRD big brake kit for these trucks, I don't recall anybody upgrading the master cylinder. They just ran bigger rotors and calipers, were those calipers running small pistons maybe?

 

That's a good question. I asked on my instagram if anyone had done the GX460 upgrade and several people chimed in saying they have done it. None reported permanent mushy pedal. 2 People said it was mushy until they replaced their master cylinder but they just went with a Tundra replacement, they didn't do the T100 swap.

So it seems if I can't fix this through bleeding I might just need to try a new MC and forgo the T100 mess.

 

A new master will fix your mushy pedal, if the bleeding doesn’t.

 

I'd say it's 5/16" with the tailgate fully open in that driver side corner but since it attaches to the tailgate, the measurement changes as it reaches the point where it goes into the drilled hole in the bottom of the tailgate.





Clear as mud?

 

I have not.

Exactly.

Toyota/Aisin used a 2-bolt, 2-bolt angled, 3-bolt and 4-bolt design for many of their vehicles and many of them can interchange if you stick with a matching bolt pattern. Lines may need to be bent or fabbed to accommodate though.

A quick peek at:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...278738,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

And none of the 1/2 or 1 ton options show a 2-bolt MC. Is it perhaps a generic picture? Got a link?

You'll have to pick through the options and verify which size. They list a 1" and a 1 1/16 (1.062") depending on 1/2 or 1 ton and ABS/Non-ABS.

It will require either a 4 to 2 bolt MC adapter or a Booster swap.


Looking at them on rockauto ABS & Non-ABS should interchange with almost no issues. The rear port for the ABS model has a slightly different angle (points rearwards 10-15°) but nothing a slight twist to the brake lines won't overcome. Non-ABS rear port is straight out

Outlets and bolt pattern are the same and there don't appear to be any other differences like an additional sensor or port.

Unfortunately I haven't looked into those, so nothing I can say currently.

I think he may have been referring to a t-case adapter from inchworm? His first post talks about removing the OEM spacer between the firewall and booster for the original booster.

They probably went smaller bore for an easier to press brake pedal. More 'plush' and 'luxurious' feeling.

Correct. Or use a previously mentioned adapter.

Could be during bleeding the seal inside the MC got damaged.

I have seen this happen before, when bleeding you get into areas of the bore that you normally wouldn't and if there is any corrosion, a burr or pitting inside... It will cause this.

Way more common on older cast iron/steel masters that would also rust inside but still happens on occasion to aluminum ones too.

If it's bad, definitely.

I think smoke signals might be clearer lol.

I'm looking for the up/down clearance.

Is that the front to back measurement or down from the bar to the edge of the tailgate?

 

Since one of my other vehicles is a 4wd Tacoma... I went out and snapped a few pics of the Brake master/booster and inside mounting. The 1st gen Tacomas and T100's shared many parts and most of their drivetrain.




Here's a few of my Tundra.


Here's the spacer that was talked about in the TS thread. If the studs from the Tacoma/T100 booster were longer you could run the spacer and NOT have to cut the adjusting rod down.



Looking at things inside the Tundra, the articulated adjuster in the Tundra is probably why the adjusting rod had to be shortened on the Tacoma/T100 booster.



That said, there could be a bolt in, no cutting required solution out there. Just would require some research and test fitting.

 

@assassin10000 I think we need to see that Taco a little more

 

Nobody ever wants to see my taco

 

I wanna see that old Benz!

 

We've been waiting on you to get it running since you joined!! Hurry up already! You're slower than the NV vote counters...

 

Meanwhile in the Philippines...


I had to post it