What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

If your going this far honestly it wouldn’t cost much more to have a machine shop do the heads and check for cracks. At least hot tank the block too.. you’ll have a very long for this world engine then. Hell you can upgrade the connecting rods too if you wanted.. those are the weakest point of this engine...




Oh wait, Now I’m starting to tell you how I would end up restoring another truck

 

@theblurry1

Here's a link to the local pick up finder.

https://parts.toyota.com/findDealer.aspx?ref=/default.aspx_partner=tcom&zipCode=14602

@NUDRAT was the one who posted this first I think.

100 pages ago responding to @FirstGenVol

 

Might as well do the big piston upgrade at that point.

 

This is my first oil change after purchasing it in August 15, 2020. As such, this is my baseline.

 

5.4l stroker build would be fun...

 

So I meant to ask about this. There is finally a dealer within 40 miles of me participating but no free shipping or pickup. Is the free shipping only over a certain amount?

 

Please share more details on this.

Isn't that like $14K?

 

long since discontinued. BUT if you have the coin it can all be done custom for very little gain vs money invested!

 

I'm sold.

I'll probably just stick with the 4.7, it's a great engine except for the rare case when head gaskets blow.

 

might i suggest a custom built 4.3l 3uz bored to a 4.7 so you get a much lighter engine then? the 4.3 is an aluminum block beauty

 

I'm just saying www.car-part.com has complete 4.7 engines for half of what you're going to spend on a beater that's going to have it's own problems.

I know you mentioned not trusting salvage yard parts but speaking as someone who has made poor vehicle decisions at least the used engine should come with a short warranty.

 

Worth it.

 

Hate to derail the blurry one's saga...but pounded, heated, oiled cooled heated pounded on the steering shaft with no movement...then went to the forum to seek opinions, advice, or heckling.

In the pic you can even see the inner part of the old sal just hanging about on the lower part of the shaft, it is totally blown out so I'm past the PHM caulk method here.

Unless you guys see something I'm missing in the picture, I'm thinking of cutting the new seal so that I can open it up around the shaft. Then put it in and then seal up with caulk. This won't be as perfect as the new seal, but is my most favored idea at this point?

 

I think cutting the new seal would completely defeat the purpose of replacing it.

Do you have any Kroil? What product have you tried soaking it with?

 

I've used PB, generic penetrating oil from tractor supply, and some WD 40. Been spraying every couple days for a few weeks now. I guess I'll get my hand on some Kroil and see if it's the ticket.

The idea of cutting the new one is that I then have something with one clean cut to add caulk too and achieve a seal. Not as good and getting it slid on in tact, better than the gaping hole that's there now.

 

Try cutting it and caulking. No sense in taking a chance of breaking something on the steering with more beatings.

Will that black rubber pop off the new one? Maybe see about cutting it off and just slip the rubber up in there?

 

Call that dealer. In my case, the online software allows the shipping or free pick up option when payment is about to happen.

 

I guess you can do that as a last resort but that hole is tight for a reason(that's what she said)....I feel like if you cut it you're still gonna get noise in the cab but of course it's better than nothing.

Maybe skip the Kroil. I just remembered it came in last on Project Farms test but I've always had better luck with it than PB Blast. Liquid Wrench came out on top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

 

I did call them. I forgot to mention that. My only option was to ship it to my house for the same amount of time as Cool Springs and about 10% higher. They wouldn't let me ship it to their dealer unless I paid even more. I'll check again in a month or two and see if any more dealers near me have signed up.

 

Finally had some time to throw on the custom battery tiedown...

 

Is this different than the AC version? Our DC requires the end to ramp upwards to the front mounting point.

 

Oil change done and swapped over to the winter tires. The truck looks so sad with the SR5 wheels on it.

 

Installed the ‘Silencer Pads’ aka Isolator Pads on the rear leafs (8 total). Finally got rid of the Jack Leg Shims on I installed some of the tips. Greased up between each Leaf Layer whilst they were wedged open. Rear end is smooovvv handling. Guess the grease frees up the rusty bindings. New pads are all fresh and slick/thick. The oldies were worn pretty thin and all beat up! Couple were missing.

PB Silicone with Teflon’d the seat belts for slippy slappy action. Wahh Pop!

Stoked on the leafs action. I feel I can dismiss needing new leafs in the near future like I was planning before this fix.

 

The sun finally came out today. Finished up re-assembly of my bumper cover. It has been off for over 2 weeks while getting the truck prepped and fitted with a snow plow mount.

 

Wrapped up a full "New Bilstein" install, along with having a friend rebuild the front diff, the actuators, install new axles, new sway bar bushings and end links... All fluids done and ready for the Winter!

 

Just por15'd my rear axle. Has anyone heard of water getting under a por15 coating and making it worse? As soon as I finished por15 I immediately went online and read horror stories, which idk why i would do that.

 

I've never had that happen & I don't always prep as good as I should have, but have POR15'd aplenty.

 

Im going to spray rustoleum black spray paint over the por15, to protect it from the uv rays. Can I spray fluid film over the finished por15 and rustoleum to assure no moisture gets in or would that be a bad idea?