What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

used trim restorer from Griots Garage on the mud flaps, rear bumper plastics, trailer hitch cover, mirror surrounds, plastic things at front bottom of bed, & a bunch of black things under the hood.

that's like 5 or 6 applications, they'd faded to silver/gray.

Tried some clear plastics polish on those anti-chip strips on rear arches. Nothing. They mocked me. So decided I was sick of the filth & got the black trim stain back out. This is what they look like done in black on a silver/black truck.


I'll wait for the rains this week & add more on the drivers side & as required.

*** In unplugging the battery I seem to have lost my remote functions. Won't lock/unlock & I assume remote start is inop. too. Is there some standard pairing dance between remotes & Tundrii, before i start digging in to the truck trying to figure out what brand/model remote I have. (Assuming it was done via dealer when new.) Anyone have any idea's, standards?

 

@empty_lord typical gunk? Or is this indicator of worse problems?

 

Typical at 300k

 

Sweet. Pcv valve was pretty gunky. Inside the VC looks pretty rowdy too. My back is killing me. Not many pictures getting taken.

Sorry fellas.

 

pretty normal. I hot tank my valve covers to clean them out.

 

My little brotjer did come, and snap this picture of me.

 

@empty_lord. I noticed upon removal of the lower half of plenum that that plastic "housing" for drivers side wiring harness is in several big pieces. The snap together box that I'm guessing is a heat shield.

 

Just get rid of them. For $20 I removed mine, as installed at the dealership 15yrs ago. Pics of before/after here.

I bought

EHDIS Adhesive Remover 1.5" Plastic Razor Scraper with 100PCS Double Edged Plastic Razor Blades for Scraping Labels,Stickers and Decals from Glass, Windshields,Doors

this kit of plastic razors and

Turtle Wax T-529 Label & Sticker Remover - 10 oz.

T-529 label removal

WARNING: Read the instruction on the T-529, you're not supposed to use around black plastics for some reason. And I've heard stories about it softening clearcoat, although I've used for sticker removal on clearcoat for dozens of clearcoated products and only seen weirdness happen once, on a early-2000s Trek bike. Read and heed the instructions. I had no concerns: Non-metallic paints on Toyotas are single-stage/no clearcoat.

I sprayed the clear bra with T-529, let it sit for a minute or two, then took a heat gun, heated up a section of the bra for 20-30 seconds from about 4" away (keep the heat gun moving), then using a very careful angle with the razors not to exceed 20-30°, I scraped it off section by section starting at the easiest edge I could get to.

After the initial scrape, I used another spray of T-529 on the remaining adhesive and itty-bitty sticker bits, waited 3-4 minutes and used the plastic razor to scrape off the excess glue and bits (again, being mindful of angle). Then on the final pass I sprayed T-529, let it sit for 5 minutes and and wiped the little bit of tacky stuff with a cloth - all clear.

Then waxed. Just be careful on your angles or you may take a chunk out of your flare. Note I took a chunk out of mine, but it was worth it!

Meanwhile, I've had to get a new remote. This helped me to program the one I bought. https://northcoastkeyless.com/2006-toyota-tundra-keyless-entry-remote-programming-instructions/

 

its just the loom. its normal.. the plastic breaks over time

 

Was the goop / crud on those clear bra strips on the outside, or mildew growing in the glue?

 

While most of you guys, and gals were sleeping. I was doing what I do best.
Replaced PCV valve, grommet, and stealership hose. All were rock hard.

Replaced all these cracked, rock hard vacuum lines with thick wall silicone tubing. Link to website.

Replaced my tired, and well used injectors with @dirtydeeds 12 hole injectors. No review on those yet. I was worried about fitment, and leaks because the new ones from Keith looked radically different than these. (See pics)


I went ALL the way back together with the plenum (top/bottom) started putting my tools up, and found this.
I reached out to @empty_lord to hypothesize where it lives. He told me "Lower plenum bolt in the center." I'll be damned if he wasn't 110% correct. Got her fixed up, and torqued down.

All lines in green were replaced. I think I will hit up the stealership for line in pink. Part of PCV system from drivers side VC to intake hose.



Did a 5S activity on my plug wires. Organized them, and ran them cleanly.
Here is a video of the first start up after 2nd round of work was completed.
https://youtu.be/CU07P0y1Ous

 

For my door light like you did I just got a bundle of wire that already had two conductors wrapped in rubber coating. Saved me all the finger work of taping. Valuable fingers in your case. It was relatively cheap, and saved me the work you did.

$11 22AWG UL2464 Power Cable LED Red & Black 2 Conductors tinned Copper (22AWG -2C- 25ft)

Link​

 

CEL just popped as expected. I was nervous the check them this time. Just the normal P0420 code. Bummer. That pretty much means its my exhaust system. Which is fine. Its on the agenda anyway.

Glad there is no MAF, or injector codes.

 

One last pic before I throw it all away.

Shiny new vacuum lines

 

I bet you are excited for the Performance Feedback.

 

Yes. Initial impressions after 30 mile celebratory drive. Throttle response is vastly improved. The engine runs much better in my opinion

As far as "smoothing" out the engine... i need more drive time before I can make a statement on that.

 

For anyone interested... I think this is the specific kit I used from earlier link. Next time (in another 18 years ) I'm gonna order a blue kit instead of black. Pretty.

 

(With Lisp Voiceth) I think I do mine in Pink nextth time.

 

Yew! LEDs came in. Might go out and pre-game and see if I can make these things work. Speakers come tomorrow, but I have Hand Model Convention to attend and my hands will be tied up until the weekend.

 

Basically, the clear plastic film on top of the adhesive had been there more than a decade and and had shrunk, cracked, and the dark areas are the exposed adhesive that was catching every piece of dirt possible or maybe it was mildewing as you say? All I know is you're supposed to remove/replace these clear bras every 3-5 years or less, although nobody ever seems to do it. This only took me about 20 minutes per side with the right tools.

It helps if you use a little lube (hur hur) when you apply heat, just so the razor slides across things better. I forgot to mention that. I used WD40 on the driver's side, and used the T-529 on the driver's side. My driver's side turned out flawless, and I found it easier to do than the passenger's side, so I should mark up that point in my explanation up there.

 

Busy weekend, and still busy week ahead. Have a 4 hour drive coming up so I have been catching up on the 05. No pics sorry...

PCV valve replaced - old one looked great still, it went into the spare parts bin.

Both front LBJs swapped with OEM. As far as i could tell, they were the originals, or at least several years old. Truck has 147k, and they didn't look awful, but I could move the ball around easily on them, and the new ones wouldn't budge. $240 well spent and piece of mind.

All 7 drive shaft U-Joints greased. Thought there was only 6, but happened to notice that 7th one hiding in the middle of the double cardan joint.

Wire wheeled all the rust I could find (not much, the rear axle, hitch, and some small spots on the frame in the rear overlap), and treated it with Rust Reformer and Undercoating from Rustoleum.

Finally took off the front bumper, removed the fog lights and wrapped them in yellow vinyl. Not the best quality, I have used Lamin-x with great results before. This was no name Amazon stuff. Passes the 10 foot test. And taped off the bumper and hit the bottom "chin" with spray bedliner and finished with plasti-dip. I've found it helps prevent chips for awhile with is rubber kind of texture.

Up next this week - Front/Rear Diff and T-Case service, front brake pads (Power Stop Z36).
Eventually - Find the time to install the OME 2.5" front/rear lift, SPC UCAs, Diff Drop, and Wheelers AALs. Oh and find wheels and tires.

Anyone have any good/bad info on whether I should run SCS F5s on my DC? It has the 17" Split Spokes on it now. I know I wouldn't be able to run a big brake kit, but any other reasons not to?
Edit: forgot to mention that the F5s would be 16s. And would run 285s with them.

 

Nice. All sounds like good preventative maintenance. I love those wheels. I wouldn’t shy away from them

 

Phase One ‘Operation Turning Zzzzztttanese’ Complete!

 

Yep, needed that warm, fuzzy, I probably won't have any surprises in my 4 hour vacation drive feeling.

My concern with the F5s is that they are 16x8, 0 offset, and 4.5" backspacing. I've read that 4.5 is the sweet spot for our trucks, but I wanted to make sure. Plan on 285/75/16s if I do go with them. Facebook marketplace special.

 

Only downside is no big brake kit. But I don't tow and don't necessarily see that changing.

 

The WL 13 will work on the 16” rims. I just upgraded to them on original starfish OEM ‘Patricks’. There are 8 total zerks on 4wd.

2 on the front shaft and 6 on the double cardan.

 

Is this true, can anyone verify. I too am in search of wheels. Thanks

 

Yeah. I bought a 100’ roll of 20 wire for $10. I had two rolls of old gooey electrical HD tape I scored with some tools last year and wanted to use those up for Wurrld Peas to Save the Earth Credits. I have more wire than I need for this current project, but the extras might get used on something down the road?