What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

You could.. if you find a donor sequoia and swap everything in...

 

Here's a pic of the wiring harness behind that face plate. The Sequoia has climate control and front/rear controls so I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be a straight swap. But maybe worth a peek

 

That would be annoying, especially if you're Pioneer is blasting you with light at night. Have you tried replacing the SmartTap with the factory flasher to see if the problem goes away?

 

Did you install led headlights? This can kind of all weird issues with the lights

 

Whoa, hold up. I'm 10 pages behind on this thread in particular. Don't let me stop you from wearing gloves the next time we work together. Don't let anyone tell you NOT to wear PPE my dude. If they tell you not to, then do it anyway. Fuck em.

I choose not to wear them. I've worn the nitrile gloves before, and my "fangers" just can't feel the same way. I have strange hands, and the fingertips of most gloves turn into the bulb at the end of a condom. Really screws things up threading in small bolts, or other fiddly tasks.

 

I was thinking the same thing. Fluke is first choice. Klein is 2nd choice.

All others I do not consider.

 

I consider Kleins to be on the lower end of the spectrum, close to the bottom in fact. Outside of fluke, I would have no problem with an Ideal or even Fieldpiece.

 

Ah, I see.

Fluke, amd Klein are the only two except for Wully wurl $10 specials I've seen in my travels.

 

I'm just being snobby. Kleins are perfectly ok for someone just using them for hobbies or around the house. I tend to look at meters through my spectrum of uses

 

Thanks for posting a link. Couldn't really figure it out on my own. Looks like the closest to me is Louisville, KY. Bout two hours. I guess I'll keep paying shipping. Lol

 

Bench front seat? With the cneter console attached to passengers seat?

If so, that's the same as mine. I had a squeak on passengers side seat also. Turned out to be the forward back lock/lever for sliding seat forw/back. That was some time ago. I figured that one out at 55 mph. Reached over with Noel arm technique, and felt around while driving. Once I located the culprit added some grease in the hinged part of lever. No more squeak.

 

Gotcha. I only have experience with meters at work. Usually, ohms testing, AC/DC testing, continuity.

Biggest power I've ever read with a meter was right around 12k amps right next to a water bath on an extrusion line for making car weather strip. I'll spare the details. Just know I was sweating bullets.

 

I have the bench seats but funny enough it is the "same" issue: the forward /back slider has some metal clips/springs that seem to be the issue and I put some grease on there.

Cheers.

Noel arm technique??

 

Tooled around yesterday and cleaned up a few grounds behind the engine block that I overlooked last year. Looks like they both come from the ECU.

AeroSpace 303’d the exterior trims/tires except for my Bed Liner’d stuff. AeroSpaced the door gaskets and interior again. This is a great product. Leaves a nice Matte finish and restores rubber and plastics that are still in decent shape. Its not sold as a restoration product, but it does a good job. Its one product that will do everything (not body or glass) on your truck. Has UV protectors.

Popped the ‘eyeball’ out of my Windshield Wiper Spray Nozzle. Its the one I snapped my file tip inside the other day of which I said I liked the mist action after it was a mess up. The Mojo shifted overnight, which changed the spray pattern, so I went to Plan B and removed one of the two brass insert tips that I mangled.

Liquid shoots out in a heavy chunky spray from that orifice versus the OEM Super Jet Action Tip. The other 3 orifices are shooting nicely since I modified them! I’ll live with it for a while and see how it does over time. Worst case senario I buy a new one ($20) and its a fan pattern Nozzle.

 

Forgot: I feather dusted and AeroSpace’d all the plastics and rubber hose lines in the engine bay. Used PB Oil on the manifold metal.

 

Here is a ‘how to’ on checking your Accessory Belt Tension per the FSM. My pic is a little blurry and taken right after a belt change last fall.

 

Noel arm techniques is just a maneuver I break out while driving to investigate new sounds, or vibes.

For instance, when I diagnosed the pass side squeak, or swapping put HVAC control knovs because I haven't ordered a replacement for my broken one yet.

 

Does anyone have a diagram of the rear inside door latch, specifically how the spring is supposed to be mounted. Mine came off while working on that door.

 

Is this what your are taking about?

 

Now that you say this I had the same conclusion after many hours of being stumped...it grounds through the antenna lol glad you got it man! Looks amazing

 

Yes, thank you. After I posted, I went out and figured I knew what should be happening with the spring just not were it sat to stay under tension. Then i figured it out. Small victories..

 

Today I replaced both of my worn out hood struts. These are so much better.







I also bought a fridge, sliding tray, cover, and a bed storage box for $400. A local guy on the Tacoma forum was selling them. I've just got to figure out how to configure everything.

 

Some FSM info on how to test your A/C System via the ‘Sight Glass’.

 

Here is the ‘Cross Over Move’ I was explaining the other day. Also, there is a window to check your brake shoe thickness as a bonus.

 

Last night I pulled a regular "goof up" on my cargo light button. I wonder if the wiring on the internals of the radio bezel would alter the function of the "rear" button, OR if the truck wiring would "overwrite" the bezel's and make the rear button the Cargo light?

I am quoting in messages because I am on the laptop at the moment, and do not have the pictures stored here.

EDIT: No key slot for turning on/off pass airbag?

 

Tooled around again today and decided to finally attack these metal rivets holding the glass in place. They didn’t look too bad with their sun faded checking finish, but it looks way better in full gloss black to match the window.

 

Gave the timing belt a check while I tried to get rid of spiders and with the help @Professional Hand Model posted made it easy.

I was meaning to ask about this, but does anyone have any experience with the AISIN timing belt kit? This was done before I bought the truck As I would have gotten OEM but will this be fine till 150000?

 

The AISIN kit is what everyone recommends. You're good for 90k!

 

That FSM I put up is for the ‘Accessory Belt’ which powers the PS Pump, A/C, Alternator, Water Pump, and Rad Fan. Glad it helped you. They need changing about every 1-3 years depending on the quality of the Accessory Belt. They are easy to change with a 14mm flex head ratchet and some patience.

 

So I lost a piece of trim today on driver door. 05 double cab. The driver's side had been swiped and repaired which I knew before I bought it. Overall the repair was done really well but I guess they didn't adhere the trim properly. Can anyone tell me if I have to replace this trim piece with something from a double cab or if an access cab door is the same? I found one off an AC for pretty cheap and have paint to make it match.

Also wondering if anyone has tips for how best to re apply the trim piece once I track it down. Thanks for any help. I tried tracking the piece down but probably lost it on the highway and couldn't find it.