What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Took off the tent/rack, unloaded everything in the bed and cab and weighed her. She’s a slim 5640lbs. Looks like a FWC is out of the picture and the AT Atlas moves into first.

 

Hi everybody (longtime lurker - first time posting), just recently finished an LED conversion on my double cab. Used a SmartTap to avoid the hyperflash, but came across an interesting inconvenience. Somewhere during the conversion, my overhead compass and my Pioneer in-dash now think the lights are always on. I am stumped on what could be the issue causing this. Any thoughts?


Edit: Additionally, I do not have DRL.

 

I love my flukes... got 3 model 88s and a 88

 

Radiator top tanks starting to seep coolant.. looks like the time to replace is almost here... so do I do a Mishimoto all aluminum with no trans cooler. Or a new oem... hmmm if I do no trans cooler I’ll be installing the largest cooler I can and a thermostat.

 

Took Her in for wheel balance and rotation today. felt a minor vibration between 70-80 mph. Was stressing a little that it may be due to more $erious problems. After a road/freeway test I am relieved that it was only an unbalanced tire. Icing on the cake was the shop manager telling me how well taken care of the truck looked. I think i found me a gem.

 

Wow, north dakota. I don't think anyone else in here is from there. I don't think ANYONE is from there. It's like Canada's mexico.

I actually only have a t5-1000, and a klein DMM. The fluke stuff is all owned by the company.

 

New OEM.

 

So my first road trip learned me a lot about this truck. Ended up just going to the egypt trails at Escalante.

1. Airing down seriously helps. Hence I bought Staun deflators.
2. Can't want for a suspension makeover.
3. Car camping is part of our trips, along with our first priority of backpacking. The head unit with Apple carplay really helps finding car camping spots: I have a Gaia maps subscription (National geo. maps downloaded) and when I drive I can display this map and it shows all sorts of camping spots nearby. Very cool.
4. Acoustics are very important to me. I want a quiet car and a good sound system. I thought I was done with equipment with the purchase of a powered sub but on the trip I realized that the vocals were flat and the bass was very muddled. Whelp, in for a dime, in for a dollar.

So, I got home and first made this:


That will make car camping and hanging out even easier. I bought an $18 carpet at HD, laid some CCF underneath, and used industrial velcro to hold it on. I really would like a thicker carpet, but this will do for now.

Then, I went full autist and pulled the interior out (again) and vacuumed (again) and wiped everything down (again). I took out the powered sub and returned it as I only had it for about 8 days. All wiring was recoverable. Well, with the interior out, I might as well add in a cabin air filter:


So, I had already laid down damping tiles and knew I was going to come back at this with a full acoustic treatment which means two more layers: closed cell foam (a decoupling layer, nothing more) and then mass loaded vinyl, which is what will block outside noise. Again, as everything was ripped out of the inside, well gee I might as well take down the headliner and put some acoustic/thermal insulation. It was actually quite easy EXCEPT, the damned sun vision clips. Wow. I watched some videos for sequios (couldnt find a tundra guide) and I was expecting to rotate by 90 degrees and pull out. Passenger side, I rotated and POP, broke a small tab but it came out. You dont actually rotate these clips, just loosen the bolt and pull. Well that is the theory. On the driver's side, I was literally hanging from the clips and it didn't budge. Much cursing and frustration it finally came out. Here is the look of the material I put in the headliner:


This morning, I started laying down the CCF:



The mass loaded vinyl was delivered yesterday:


My god is it heavy.

Wow, I think I have a problem. I enjoy modifying this vehicle as much as driving it! Joking aside, I have always wanted to do this and see what effect it will have. If you dig into this, most will say that one should just buy a quiet car from the start (lexus anyone?), yup I agree. But doing this once will give me the confidence to do it on a more expensive vehicle in the future.

5 channel amp coming today with two 8 inch subs. I bought the Q logic box that replaces the passenger rear compartment. That comes in a week or two.

Last thought: I have crossed the rubicon. My upgrades have now cost more than the purchase price of the vehicle!

Most important: I love having a truck again.

 

I’m thinking Mishimoto and seperate trans cooler... because engine bay bling and it should last forever.

 

Where did you buy that stuff? I’ve got to do my carpet soon. Was going to do mass loaded carpet may as well put the other stuff under it too. I like quiet cabs on long road trips

 

The mass damping can be found at an audio store. You only need to cover 25% of large flat panels. (Don't look at my photo album. <shrug>) The CCF I got at home depot. The MLV is from Amazon.

I can't say that most people would want to spend the money and effort on this. But I am having fun.

On another note, I also discovered my 2002 calipers are stamped 13WL and someone put a coupling on the steering shaft to deal with that issue of steering play. Nice!

 

I’m going to noico the floor pans, the carpet has mass loaded vinyl on it. The closed cell foam is probably all I’d add

 

Still not caught up, but parts search link:
https://parts.toyota.com/findDealer.aspx?ref=/default.aspx_partner=tcom&zipCode=14602
Then put in your own zip code. (since when do I live in NJ? Internet vodoo...)

 

While your interior is out... spray a hose at the roof/back window, along the door gaskets & then see if you have any leaks, particularly in the rear corners. @Professional Hand Model found some age related leaking, should be on his build page.

 

I added latex tubing to the inners of all the door seals several days ago. I figure that gets at the issue you mention. My seals actually look pretty good at 152K miles.

Thank you very much for the suggestion. I also need to dig deep into the passenger seat as there is a squeak that drove me crazy for the 10 hour drive to Utah and 10 hours back.

 

Many people state that the doors give the biggest improvement, so you might consider those.

 

The MLV is starting to go in. I was intimidated by it honestly but it is easier to deal with than the CCF.

 

Already done the doors.

 

Can you describe your experience before and after the doors?

 

Received some more parts.

• MaxxAir Fan
• 7.5" parts kit
• (2) UCO mess kits
• (2) microfiber towels
• (1) Collapsible Cutting board/Dish bowl
• Gear Ties

14pc kitchen cook set should be in next week along with the rear rebuild kit, front 4.56 gears and collapse dry rack.

The goal is to try to get the truck dropped off to my mechanic by the end of next week to do the gears and fix the exhaust leaks. I was contemplating ordering a 12" or 16"x5" Bamuffler to add inline with the 22" to quiet it down some but because the shipping is $100, I'm trying to figure out what else I may want to include.

Also, if ArchiveGarage is accurate, my leaf springs should ship next week!

 

I did it! Both doors are done! With new speakers that are meh, and a tint job that’s bad at best.

(No, the door is not a different color, it’s just dirty)

 

What a rebirth! Great work.

 

Looks great dude!

 

Thanks man,

I'm now working on the steering rack replacement. anything to note or be extra careful with?

 

Just watch the lines don’t break.

 

I have new lines.

any tips to getting it to line up like the old one? Measure closely?

 

They fall into place.

 

I had to install one, it was an experience. Best unsolicited advice I can give you if you never have:

If you can leave the seats and carpet out until you install, do it. Tolerances are super tight, so I had to trim out some of the factory sound deadener from the floor just to get the box to bolt in.

Box install has you remove the entire passenger half of the under-seat steel cage, the box replaces that, the drivers side half of the cage remains installed. I'm only saying this because the instructions say you only need loosen the two or three fasteners on the driver's half of the under-seat box cage to slide the new box in.

Reality? Pull the passenger side of the cage then loosen as many driver's side bolts as you can, I removed all but two near driver door, I backed those out significantly for play. It'll sound stupid, but you'll want to start by installing the bolt next to where the rear passenger seat belt fastener meets the back wall of the truck first, it's the worst place to get leverage.

From there, thread in the others 1-2 threads max, starting from the door and working back to the middle. I had to push on the box a lot just to get its fasteners to go in, once I got to the middle the real fun began, that's when I realized I needed to shave some floor sound deadener off, work back through them working from passenger to driver side.

Oh - I had to remove the plastic channel that protects the speaker cable bundle along the tranny tunnel. You'll either need to remove or cut it, it interferes with the box. I removed the channel and rolled the speaker bundle up for now. I didn't want to splice it for my aftermarket stereo install.

 

Thank you very much for the tips. I am getting to be a pro at taking the interior out, so that is no problem. I think I read a post of yours previously discussing the need to tweak things here and there.

How do you like it now that it is set up?

 

Haven't gotten there yet. Box is installed, shallow-mount kicker subs are still in boxes on my shop shelves waiting for an amp to kick off phase 2. Amp was waiting in hopes of scoring a deal on a new or lightly used/open box JL xd600/v2 to power everything in the truck. Once that lands, it's just a matter of figuring out how I'll mount it under the passenger seat, then running power thru the firewall.

When I get there, while installing the amp, I'll probably reinstall the front half of the plastic wire channel to re-route the factory speaker lines and the HU RCAs back to the amp. Try and keep it as clean as possible and reversible in case I ever put things back to stock again some day.

With installs I usually prefer to work in bite size chunks. Install the HU, and maybe new speakers for phase 1. Amp and subs phase 2. Then do all the extra little stuff - dash cam, reverse cam, maybe add in DSP if things aren't where I want it soundwise for phase 3. When you jam it all into one day or one weekend, I usually get stuck cutting corners here or there, too much hassle.