What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Up early to install the sound damping after a deep dive last night that led me to believe that what I really want is to block out external noise (along with good internal acoustics) and that requires two more layers. One of closed cell foam to act as a decoupling between the sound damping/frame and the last layer of (often) mass loaded vinyl which actually reflects sound. That is time consuming and expensive and I am a bit skeptical in that if you have any openings or even do not cover the firewall, the sound will still get through quite a bit. So, I am skipping that and will add more sound damping in the doors when I put in speakers this coming week.

Here is my first attempt at sound damping. I've read that above 25% coverage has minimal gains but hey...


And the interior after reinstall and running the vacuum I don't know how many times:


I am not happy with the phone cord. I was originally thinking of drilling a hole in the center console and that would allow the phone to be placed inside, but I am not sure that is a good place either.

Any suggestions?

One more project on the truck today...

 

Seat all the way forward, the speaker grille just barely touches the seat bottom but does not interfere in full seat movement. Even with a 28" inseam I don't run the seat that far forward.




Here's the clearance with a few 1/8" thick 5/8ths washers under the rear seat mounts.




When you use these mounting feet it will pull the unit down a little more than it just laying there. The above pics already have the powered sub mounted with these included feet/brackets for max clearance. A quick glance underneath confirmed I wouldn't be potentially damaging anything with the screws coming through the floor.



I used 1 1/4" drywall screws since that's what I had on hand, but 1" or maybe even 3/4" screws would be better for less protrusion.



I placed a few of these under the rear seat brackets.





The sub comes with a wired remote to control the output so I mounted it in the cubby under my single DIN radio. This radio is old and doesn't have Bluetooth or a front AUX jack, I had to get a proprietary cable to plug into the back of the unit so I drilled a hole in the back of the cubby and ran the AUX cable and wired sub cable through the back of it.

 

Older reminder of the Piezo Sound Dampening ‘mod’. Put a piece of blue tape over the hole to stifle the piercing sound. Sound is 80% damped. Here I’m sporting the ‘Let Your Fingers Do the Walking Pose’ which is a classic pre-internet move.

 

I just noticed that (not sure what it's called) yesterday when wiring my sub. What is it?

 

Its called a ‘Piezo’ by Toyota.

 

Ah, ok. I just checked and it's the chirp thingy when I lock/unlock my doors with the key fob.

 

It is a Piezoelectric Sounder,you know a Piezo!

 

So I put about 3.5qts of coolant in my reservoir over the last week. I see no leaks anywhere, hoses look good, no smoke out the tailpipe...what gives? I’ve been filling it to the full mark when the engine is cold (I believe this is right) and it keeps drinking! there is some signs of the top of the radiator that could be suspect (I can get a picture later) or is this maybe my water pump leaking and it’s just evaporating before it leaks onto the ground????

bought the truck with 193K, now has 205K and was told the timing belt was done about 180 FYI.

 

check your transmission fluid!!!

 

Yeah. Like @lsaami says check your trans fluid. Your hunch may be correctin that many times your type of leak gets evaporated by the fan where it leaks out at the water pump. The fan blows it away. When was your last water pump change?

 

Wait, what? Why?

I ASSUME it was done with the belt but don’t know.

 

I am assuming they want you to check your transmission fluid to make sure you don't have "the milkshake."

 

Makes sense. Crap. Now I’m scared to go outside and look....brb

 

Curious how one checks on the 06 sealed transmission.

 

Hook a finger in there?

 

Yeah I gotta wait till I get home. I believe you’re supposed to have it up to temp and open the fill plug and let a bit drip out and check it.

the weird thing is that the radiator is full. Truck doesn’t overheat or anything even pulling a TT and ‘seems’ to be at a constant coolant level where that level is just below the L on the expansion tank.

 

Had some Fun! Got her all wired up to function in reverse, as well as by switch in the bed.

 

That’s dangerous with your line of work no?

 

Start a baseline by getting your truck up to operating temp. Then:

1) Fill your reservoir tank up to F line.

That is your new base. Always check it hot because if you check is cold the level will read much lower.

You’ve put almost a gallon of coolant in so you’ve got a leak somewhere.

 

95-113 degrees trans temp, pull check plug, it should trickle out. If nothing comes out it’s low, if it comes pouring out it’s overfilled

 

@empty_lord Maybe you know...

I'm in the process of trying to remove the old glass from my parts truck door because it's full of half-peeling tint, and it's off the truck and the window is shut. Is there any way to manually lower it, or do I need to mount the door and give it power?

 

Just jump the main power wires.

 

I found a Diamondback HD for $200. Had to drive 300 miles to pick it up. The dude even suggested we install it rather than just throw it in the bed. So we installed it in his drive way.

 

Wow, play the lottery next?

 

Today I put sleeving on and rerouted my ditch light wires. The sleeving is what we use on all our MQ-9 Reapers and other drone wiring ...(good stuff). Changed the oil (factory filter, Mobile+1 Synthetic). Cleaned the K&N stuck it back in dry. Also drained about 3Qts from the trans and replaced it with Factory WS trans fluid...

 

So I did this today. It only took about 5 hours longer than the 5 hours I expected it to take. Measure, measure, measure and measure again. Not only is the shell higher in the middle then the ends, but there is a slight taper in the rear. It's a Rhino Rack made for fiberglass shells. It's the strongest I could find. Rated for 100 kg (220 lbs) dynamic weight. My shell has a double wall roof, so in order to ensure that water would never leak into the void I drilled holes in the top layer and then injected epoxy to fill the void before re-drilling the hole through the roof.

 

Adjusted the headlight assys last night. Had to adjust down a little to accommodate the new designed bulb. Light output is good. Might be slightly dimmer than the original Katana. Nothing earth shattering. Just a cheap $37 LED that puts light on the road without blinding. Hope they last longer than 14 months!

 

I just ordered 72 sqft 2 boxes of Noico 80 mil Butyl and 72 sq ft Noico Red 150 mil closed cell. Have some new speakers coming so Ill start on the doors. Next, strip the interior and do the floor and roof.

 

On my $200 diamondback: Keys had been lost over the years. I took the locks/handles off and took them to the locksmith. He fabricated hand cut 3 keys for $25. They work perfect. Also someone had removed 4 of the tie down cleats, going to order 4 cleats from diamondback for $30. This was a great find!!!!!!!!!!!!
Diamondback also has the updated black hinges, don't know the price. I may get the new hinges and 4 cleats.

 

Yesterday or Friday, can't remember, I finally installed the lining around the tailgate to seal that up and sprayed silicone on the tailgate moving parts as it was getting really hard to open.

Today, I installed some rubber t-handles on the driver side drawer. Not sure how I feel about them. The goal was to "lock" the drawers when driving and use as handles to open them. They seem to work but not sure it will be the final product. I can see the top piece grabbing a shin. Also, need to get some smaller screws (heads are too large) to replace and install the final two. Had to install the "top" upside down and bend the tabs back up because the rubber piece was a bit shorter than I expected.

Other than that, I have ordered my 4.56 gears, Bruteforce fab rear bumper (single swing-out w/table) & sliders, as well as new t-locks for the topper (so I can have keys and lock them), locks for the "maxtraxx"/pelican cases (arriving today), and a few camp items. Have a Spartan front locker in my cart as well as the rebuild kits for front and back diffs but the front gears are on back-ordered so going to wait until it ships before I grab these other items.

Trying to order a MaxxAir Deluxe Fan for the topper but they are out of stock everywhere!

Lastly, I think I have thrown in the towel on the passenger header. I have tried tightening the bolts up, which they did tighten, but the leaks still seem between flange/pipe so I'm going to just have my mechanic fix the leaks as welding is needed. Once that's completed, I'll see how the truck sounds and before I route the exhaust through the side of the bed, decided whether or not I want to add a 12x5 pipe to the existing 22x5.

That's it for now...lot to do and eager to do it but going on vacation starting Friday for a week up in North Carolina so have to save some money for that!