What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Driver side vs passenger side. Quite a difference between the two.

 

How many AMPS do those Caddy Horns draw?

I’m assuming you have the 20AMP Horn/Haz fuse like my truck so your info will help.

 

Looks so much blacker than @Darkness truck now.

 

What's the black felt looking stuff in the picture? Some sort of gasket?

 

Thats ‘Bejesus’. He squeezed the Bejesus out of it.

 

That's the JBA gasket. They are a weird black felt/metal thing..

 

Tried to fix my blinking 4WD light. Read a couple trouble shooting threads and went after the transfer case electric motor and the two switches directly above the black plastic cover. In my haste to clean the inside of the black case (spotless by the way) I also took out the large gear that is directly in the transfer case. Anyone have a picture (visual learner) of how that gear is seated in the transfer case? The winding mechanism in particular because I didn’t look when it popped out. Is it seated in front of or behind oR in between the piece sticking out of the inside of the housing attached to the transfer case. Wow, lots of bad grammar here.

2001 Limited AC.

 

It looks like one has a lot more gasket material than the other. I assume that gasket is there to fix the very issue you're having?

 

My factory horn fuse is 10 amp. These draw a hair over 20. So I’m using the old horn connector to trigger a relay on a 30 amp circuit

 

same gasket both sides. The difference is one is sealed and the other has a large gap between the flanges so you see the gasket. It shouldn't have that gap. If you look at the pass. side you can see the flanges are tight together and you only see the "tab" sticking out.

 

Not sure if this will help or not, but it's an exploded view of the transfer case from an 05-06....maybe someone like @empty_lord knows if it's the same transfer case as yours...? If it is different, I think @BubbaW had access to schematics for all these, but I haven't seen him here in awhile though...

 

@speedtre thank you for the diagram. My issue is in the Actuator assembly. I took off the black cover, cleaned it up, and the large plastic gear in the transfer case housing came out. I need the orientation of the large plastic gear and the clock spring assembly attached behind it.

 

Sounds like you need to separate them and see what’s causing it to bind. Is the far side not pictured; crushed or open about the same gap?
Your not by chance using a bolt with to long of a shoulder right?

 

Ah, gotcha...unfortunately the o05-06 FSM doesn't have a schematic view of that, I just looked, sorry.

 

@speedtre no worries. This is my dilemma. Learning something soon from my mis-step I hope.

 

He gets 1 point for the grille and 1 point for the flares which I don't have.

1 point deducted for chrome headlights, 1 point deducted for chrome badges, and 1 point deducted for windows not black enough.

 

@imDementeD did you connect your y pipe to the driver side cat before connecting the flange?

I did that when I installed my JBA and for some reason the driver side wouldn't line up. Then I disconnected it at the Y and it lines up fine, so did the Y. It was weird.

 

Same gap.

I did separate last night without fully unthreading the bolts to try to peek in and see I will probly spend more time on it tonight to actually fully unthread it pop it apart and see what's going on in there.

 

On the driver side I connected the cat to the header 1st and I thought I had it all the way cinch down but it wasn't until I really looked at the gap on the passenger side that I realized it wasn't.

I feel like the exhaust pipe at the flange on the cat is what is interfering with the header.

But I hope once I unthread it all the way I can see some type of mark showing where its binding up

 

If that's the case you might get away with a little careful grinding, I can't remember what the pipe at the flange looked like. Those JBA gaskets are really thin once they're compressed so it has to mate perfectly.

 

I dont have my damn s-pen so I'll try to explain. Where you're holding it with your thumb looks like it goes toward the right bolt hole in the first pic. So it you took it out of your hand, rotated it 180, and insert so the spring is on the bottom. I'd wait for verification on that, but I think that's right.

 

When you reinstall your new header with the new gasket and you don't remove the old gasket from the cat....There's your sign!

I can't believe it, I took it apart and the damn old gasket fell out...Going to go tighten everything back up in a few minutes and see if that fixes the issue...I hope I didn't damage the JBA gasket as there's a little bit of felt that's mushed around. This is what happens when the install whips your ass. You overlook the simple things!

 

I would love to run a set of those in my GTI. If you heard the horn you'd laugh hard. It sounds like when you're trying to pass a fart quietly but it still makes noise.

 

What type gaskets are replacing the OEM type donuts? These Bejesus types?

 

Not sure what the new gaskets look like. You have a pic @imDementeD ?

 

I further disassembled the area to include the three small 8mm screws on top because I could not get the cog to line up. I have rotated the locking pin into the transfer case and out of the transfer case manually. Installed the big plastic gear with the spring assembly as @bmf4069 instructed. Put it all back together and Hooke duo all the wires/plugs. WIth the truck on but not running, I can hear the motor at the transfer case hum. The blessed truck is still taunting me with the blinking 4Hi light on the dash. When engaged in 4Hi I was able to manually get the front drive shaft to lock in. With the electric motor, no joy. Any further ideas or tips would be most appreciated.

 

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