What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Today I did a power steering flush. I knew it was bad, but the fluid was more burnt than I even thought. I got a new rack and pinion about 2 years ago and I'm surprised it was that cwispy.


You can barely see it in the pic, but I wrapped my JBA shorties with a fiberglass heat wrap before I installed them.
I wonder how they hold up compared to being naked or having a ceramic coating. My engine bay isn't nearly as hot after a drive when compared to the stock headers.

 

These were a couple friends of mine that had to run to Sam's Club

 

I swear man, your picture loaded immediately after I hit "like" I just assumed your friends were the guy in yellow...

I need to get into a full fluid flush. Power steering, coolant, transmission, rear diff, brake fluid... none of that has been touched since I replaced my radiator 2019...., or since my transmission was replaced in 2009?.......

Or original.

I do check my levels, and top off as needed. I do not consider that "touching the fluid." Merely adding as a reactive measure.

I just want to have everything "fixed" before I get into a fluid flush because as I was reading PHM'S posts I realized he is correct. I do not want to replace the fluid with old components "widd crudd all up in it, an shit mang"

motivation has been hard lately...​

I did buy a grease gun today for the house, 2 tubes of the "premium" 500° grease harbor freight had, (they were sold out of grease needles), picked up the BIG can of pb blaster to spray into the frame once I get there... and ordered new bell crank kit for the parking brake... that being a vital component I wanted to replace it with new.

Also ordered the phospho treatment, POR-15, wire wheels, and 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter. Moly-b tubs, and rattle cans I can pick up the next time I'm in town and don't have to shit my self.

Those that have had "light rust" that went with wire wheeling, how many did you end up using? One wheel, or more? I want to know if I need to order another set.

Back to my "isolation."

 

what is the largest tire you can run with stock suspension?

 

The biggest operable is 285/75/r16 for those with 16” wheels like myself. We’ve seen guys here go bigger, but they can’t turn their trucks and the rubber bumps the mud flaps, etc.

Not sure about 17” wheels biggest size because 16” is best size!

 

That heat wrap looks like a good idea. I’d say if you feel a difference then that is great. The ceramic coating test we could perform with @ darkness vs. @Rex Kramer

 

Love it - Hate it, I can't change it.

I had the hood & roof sprayed with Line-X yesterday.

 

Pics or it didn't happen

 

Oh, it happened alright... pics later this afternoon.

 

copy that. I have 17in rims and need tires. But I won't lift for a couple months so only want to buy tires once.... Maybe someone else can chime in....

 

265/70/17 should work. They were on my DC when I bought it. They'll rub at full steering lock but not terrible.

 

Stock rims? That will matter as offset plays a part into this as well.

 

265/70r17 is the equivalent size / diameter to the 265/75r16. I have the 265/70r17 size on Toyota rims. No rub even at full lock, stock original suspension with stock mud flaps, but I couldn't go any bigger without rubbing.

 

Nice work again. I went out yesterday to look at mine. I'm still impressed with how easily you did this. I can't even see a few for the studs/nuts near the motor mount. I tried to find them from the wheel well, and from underneath. I never could get eyes on them. I can see why having the right tools makes a huge difference on this.

 

I do them at work all the time.. even on rust buckets I’ve never ran into major issues.

 

That's how I felt the first time I looked at it but once I got started it just went.

I wonder if my lift helps that much since I'm at 24" to hub.

 

You don't count. You're a pro. That's like A-Rod saying he doesn't see what's so hard about hitting a home run.

 

Lol! Fair enough

 

Removed old exhaust and installed BAMuffler side exit. Had to cut off one tailpipe as the bolts were so rusted they wouldn't budge.

I will attach the piece in the back to pull the muffler up close to the body so it won't hang like it's currently seen but the real goal is to extend it a little further back and do a side exit through the bed. This way the muffler is tucked into the frame area and it won't interfere with the future rock sliders. Also, o2 bung came in today so I can get that welded to the passenger side cat.

Fun fact - The exhaust I removed is OMG heavier than what I just installed. How am I sure? It fell on my head when I cut the driverside tailpipe off!

 

I bet that is loud as fUKK!

 

Yea, I'm a bit nervous about that but we'll see! I'll definitely report back!

 

Wait they sent you a gates belt with an Aisin kit? Or was this a different kit?

 

I was about to say lol

 

Few more pieces done. Still gotta figure out the doors and lower dash situation.

 

What exact part is this from dirty deeds ? So you got a Y pipe that matches right up to the cats ? And the rest is the helmholtz resinator and muffler ? Also cost if you dont mind

 

I bought it used for $200.

It's the bolt-on with no mid-pipes and just the muffler (20x5). It comes out to $595 + Shipping on his site.

http://dirtydeedsindustries.com/product/2000-2006-toyota-tundra-bolt-on-kit/

 

Hey I recognize those! Looks good!

 

Yup they survived!