What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Whats your technique on the service?

 

Once I get mine back in working order I'll have to keep track of that, and start doing that. Any specific type of grease you all prefer?

I can get some High temp grease from work once life ya know... resumes.

 

Peal the boots back, get old grease out, articulate the arm a few times and load it up with fresh grease.

 

I use super lube for almost everything lol

 

Almost everything except....?
Lol

 

My guns.



I use super lube for the brake arms

 

Been thinking about my rear crustiness. I know others have mentioned needle scaler which is a fantastic idea, but I don't have access to compressed air.

Wire wheel it is.​

5pc Crimped Wire Drill Attachment Brush Kit - 1/4 Hex Shank

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LI97LFY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_0fGUEb88Q7SX3

Big gurll specials.
​

What are you some products you fellas have used to stop the crustiness?

I perused the Hand model Role model page.

https://m.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/lubricant-grease/stp-moly-ep-grease-tub-15oz/561753_0

Moly-B grease coat seems to me to be a preventative measure? Please correct me if I am wrong.

Edit​

After some heavy search bar use... (I keep forgetting its there, and how to use it.)

Remove as much scale as possible, and wire wheel wherever possible that are trouble areas.

Fluid film seems like a reoccurring thing that most seem happy with, also a generous coating of penetrant, and then follow that up with the Moly after a few weeks.

 

as usual, @empty_lord is right when it comes to parts, cross model compatibility, toyotas...life in general

I've heard a few guys have their's break and leave em stranded so I go worried since mine had a bunch of wiggling to it...think of a manual trans in neutral wiggling.

I didn't grease mine but I did replace the transmission linkage bushing and that did help a bit.

 

Also made a kayak rack for my truck. Still need to paint it and then mount the ‘J-Bars’.
A few issues that led me to making this one instead of buying one.
1. price
2. I only needed the front rack and didn’t want the kayaks flat above the truckbed like canopy height
3. Wanted to keep my tonneau cover
4. Wanted to me able to pull the travel trailer with the tailgate closed and the still bring the two kayaks

Cost me about $50 in parts and a little bit of time is all. I know it looks low but with the J-Bars mounted the kayaks will clear the back of the cab roof without being sky high

 

I bet @bmf4069 approves! how did you anchor into the stake pockets? Just a bolt?

 

Don’t worry. I’m wrong a lot. I’m just good at faking it till I make it

 

Maybe I’ll paint it black, But I do have white raptor liner that I thought about using.
Yes it has an eyebolt that screws into it. Looks to be pretty solid but I’ll have to do a freeway test run once I’m done and get the kayaks on there

 

Would it be wise to replace my E-brake cables when I get around to the bell cranks?

Rears specifically? I'm not so concerned about the front part of the cable, just whats past the turnbuckle adjustment.

Gut instinct says they are not stretched since they have been loose all this time...

 

I wouldn't worry abut the cable, there's so much adjustment. Here's a very good write up on the bell cranks.

For the rust, clean it up, then use POR 15, or ospho or many other rust removers, then coat it.

 

im so tired of the bell cranks im half tempted to have my buddy make some out of 300 series stainless to see if they resist the rust better.

 

PHM used a product called Ospho that looked promising. After you wire brush everything I would either use that or POR15.

The grease rub would be a final step to protect it but you want to actually do something to the rust first. At least that's what I would do.

 

Get rid of those factory 90s and bend that shit! Or, use compression couplings. They're a lot stronger.

 

How can a bend vs a 90 be stronger? Also the couplings are drilled through with bolts going through

 

He just means using the clamps w the pre bent 90 vs getting it bent in one piece. But that looks like 1 1/2 maybe, and most people don’t have a bender that big

 

This might belong in the Off Topic forums

 

Yeah, a full stick with 2 90s bent in it. We have a bender that will do up to 4". But with you drilling it through that'll be good.

 

@CodyP What kind of magic did we do here to make the round pipe fit into a square hole?

 

Oh, I see what you mean. Yeah, I think that would look more 'boxy' to have the bars go straight up, and then right angle horizontally across so I went this way instead. Keeps the sides a bit shorter too since the swooping 90s give 6" of lift anyways.

Yeah, I don't have a mandrel bender anyways and they have eyebolts holding them into the stake pockets.

Black magic.... as well as my bench vice and a bit of hammer work. Just put the bottom 6" into the vice so the top of the short pieces are still circular to mate up to the corners and connectors.

 

Interesting.

 

hmmm...I feel you say that degradingly lol.
I just needed something on the 2-3 times a year (which is the only time it will be on the truck) I haul a TT and kayaks and knew it wasn't worth the money to buy a full fledged kayak rack IF I could find one to work simultaneously with a tonneau cover.

 

?

I guess I could say a ‘feel’ your answer left me interested in how one pounds a 2”? round pipe into an approximate 1.25” square, but I already said that.

I see you added some further explanation and an additional picture to your post which helps me see what you’ve done.

Also, I think sometimes this site may be slow in uploading pics because I’ve read a post and then come back later and see something new added. Not sure if that was the case here.

 

It was a 1.5" pipe down to 1.25 so it didn't take much finesse. Also, I posted it from my computer and then uploaded the picture a minute later from my phone so that's probably what caused the delay.

 

Cool. That was the confusion. I actually was at big box today looking at this pipe. @bmf4069 compression fittings are high dolla!

One 2” fitting was $50!

 

What was it made out of? That’s pricey!

 

yes, that was the other reason as well as these cheap ones being bolted together