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What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by T-Rex266, Sep 7, 2015.

  1. Feb 16, 2020 at 10:16 PM
    jImmegart

    jImmegart Youngest tundra owner in the west!

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    FN Counter steer type X w/ 285/70r17 Geolanders JBA y-pipe and pro street 6000 muffler 2.5 king coilovers w/ total chaos uca and custom 2.0 king rears Skidrow front plate TRD Sport package W/ Factory rear swaybar and LSD
    did you get capa certified or just normal inventory? They dont have capa in the left one so Im just trying to figure what the difference is.
     
  2. Feb 16, 2020 at 10:55 PM
    CodyP

    CodyP Such a n00b

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    Shoot dang that’s nice. I have a few 2017, 2018 and 2019 bottles since I only found out about liking it a while ago. Also have some goose island bourbon county stouts from Black Friday too! a local brewery tapped the few kegs of the 2013 abyss they were have been saving so I grabbed a grunt of it to share with a friend that came over today.

    2A54DADD-CBCA-411C-AA86-11A1BB061714.jpg
     
  3. Feb 16, 2020 at 11:55 PM
    speedtre

    speedtre New Member

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    I did....the funny part is I sent that exact video to somebody a few months ago and forgot about it...lol
     
  4. Feb 17, 2020 at 12:07 AM
    speedtre

    speedtre New Member

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    If the camera gets power all the time, like from the power wire on the trailer plug, then it's always on and doesn't need to be activated by the reverse lights...you can just hit the camera button on your head unit and you have your reverse shot any time you want. Connecting the reverse signal wire on the HU to a reverse signal wire somewhere else (in my case right in the radio harness where there was an unused reverse signal used for Sequoias with factory backup cameras I assume) makes the HU autoswitch to the reverse camera view when you shift into reverse.
     
    FirstGenVol and tvpierce like this.
  5. Feb 17, 2020 at 3:49 AM
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    Maine
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    Regular inventory.
     
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  6. Feb 17, 2020 at 4:47 AM
    theblurry1

    theblurry1 ~

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    Castle Rock, CO
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    2001 Thunder Grey Tundra AC Limited 4x4 V8
    (Camper conversion underway.) Rebuilt engine w/265K miles, A.R.E. camper shell (w/cab pass-through, rooftop fan, and side windows delete), bedlinered steel ladder rack (w/wooden rooftop deck and hammock mount), all LED lights (red dash, 4" side floods, 32" rear bar), Android head unit, 1.5" lift from Bilstein 5100 struts, 32" DuraTrac tires on factory rims, 1.5" wheel spacers, Moog suspension parts, SuperSprings leaf kit, diff drop, Reese trailer brake control, GoRhino Hitch Step, debadged, F-150 rear bumper, Sequoia center console unit upgrade, partial rear bench seat delete, dashcam, aftermarket speakers, 50% sound deadening coverage, custom tools unit.
    Thanks! A good soak in degreaser, a good scrubbing, a good spray with brake cleaner, and a good wipe with isopropyl alcohol.
     
  7. Feb 17, 2020 at 5:15 AM
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Nice work! Couple of suggestions:

    1) The Toy gasket kit is best for next time.

    2) You may want to switch to a high mileage synthetic like Mobil1. It has detergents that will slowly eat away at that sludge. You’ll do frequent oil changes like every 1k miles until the sludge is gone. Thats a lot of build up for a 4.7L engine. You could also do a Liqui Molly flush. Read about it, but it may be too aggressive treatment with your amount of build up.

    3) Your engine should run better with the work you just did. Mine did.

    4) I’ll get you feather dusting your engine bay, like me, soon enough.
     
    jImmegart, NUDRAT, Volt92 and 2 others like this.
  8. Feb 17, 2020 at 5:30 AM
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Saw it right off

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    When doing my VC's, chose to go with OEM given I shouldn't be back in there for a long time. Only $1.34 ea at stealer and would compliment that clean job you did on your VC's !

    VCbolts.jpg
     
  9. Feb 17, 2020 at 5:58 AM
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    I can see it helping but we're talking 90 minutes for me versus 8-10 for you. I'm wondering if we have different part numbers? I know when I was shopping for the Fumoto there were a few different options listed for my truck. The drain hole on my Fumoto is probably 1/4th the size of the OEM drain bolt so it makes sense that it takes forever.
     
  10. Feb 17, 2020 at 5:58 AM
    theblurry1

    theblurry1 ~

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    (Camper conversion underway.) Rebuilt engine w/265K miles, A.R.E. camper shell (w/cab pass-through, rooftop fan, and side windows delete), bedlinered steel ladder rack (w/wooden rooftop deck and hammock mount), all LED lights (red dash, 4" side floods, 32" rear bar), Android head unit, 1.5" lift from Bilstein 5100 struts, 32" DuraTrac tires on factory rims, 1.5" wheel spacers, Moog suspension parts, SuperSprings leaf kit, diff drop, Reese trailer brake control, GoRhino Hitch Step, debadged, F-150 rear bumper, Sequoia center console unit upgrade, partial rear bench seat delete, dashcam, aftermarket speakers, 50% sound deadening coverage, custom tools unit.
    That's actually extremely helpful because now I know for sure this is the right part number (on Toyota's website it doesn't have a picture). You're right! I'm going for it, since the new ones won't get crap on them for a long time if ever. :)
     
  11. Feb 17, 2020 at 6:11 AM
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    @theblurry1 That looks fantastic. Great idea. I'm due for the VC job at some point this year.

    Which degreaser did you use?


    [​IMG]
     
    theblurry1 likes this.
  12. Feb 17, 2020 at 6:12 AM
    theblurry1

    theblurry1 ~

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    Castle Rock, CO
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    2001 Thunder Grey Tundra AC Limited 4x4 V8
    (Camper conversion underway.) Rebuilt engine w/265K miles, A.R.E. camper shell (w/cab pass-through, rooftop fan, and side windows delete), bedlinered steel ladder rack (w/wooden rooftop deck and hammock mount), all LED lights (red dash, 4" side floods, 32" rear bar), Android head unit, 1.5" lift from Bilstein 5100 struts, 32" DuraTrac tires on factory rims, 1.5" wheel spacers, Moog suspension parts, SuperSprings leaf kit, diff drop, Reese trailer brake control, GoRhino Hitch Step, debadged, F-150 rear bumper, Sequoia center console unit upgrade, partial rear bench seat delete, dashcam, aftermarket speakers, 50% sound deadening coverage, custom tools unit.
    Thank ya! I love the work you've done as well.

    1) Toy meaning Toyota? I did actually use a OEM parts except the two coil gaskets. 2) I've been using a Castrol High Mileage Synthetic 5w30 but I've only done one oil change since I've owned this truck the last year, not sure what the previous owners used or how often the oil was changed. I will look into "Liquid Molly" as I've never heard. I put the recommended amount of Seafoam into the oil and will run it a few more miles before changing, I think that's the same thing and should help. 3) You're likely correct. 4) Essentially! Where is a pic of your engine bay? Didn't see it in the build thread.
     
  13. Feb 17, 2020 at 6:17 AM
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    I wonder if my 02 will have this, or if this was added later for the 05-06 models. I'm paying attention to your success as I'll be doing the same thing shortly. I just need to order the new head unit. Did you decide to mount the camera on your topper or in the tailgate handle?
     
  14. Feb 17, 2020 at 6:34 AM
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Check the set up in my build page. I set up a blower to stir up the debris through the blower resistor port and had a strong vacuum on the blower hole side to suck it all up. I then used my Himalayan Hand Technique to fit a water hose up in the blower hole directed at the coil to be washed.

    I used the resistor hole as a key hole to spy on my work.

    Once dry performed a final silicone with Teflon spray on the coils to help resist dirt in the future.

    Its a tight space so be careful with everything you do.
     
    NUDRAT likes this.
  15. Feb 17, 2020 at 6:35 AM
    theblurry1

    theblurry1 ~

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    (Camper conversion underway.) Rebuilt engine w/265K miles, A.R.E. camper shell (w/cab pass-through, rooftop fan, and side windows delete), bedlinered steel ladder rack (w/wooden rooftop deck and hammock mount), all LED lights (red dash, 4" side floods, 32" rear bar), Android head unit, 1.5" lift from Bilstein 5100 struts, 32" DuraTrac tires on factory rims, 1.5" wheel spacers, Moog suspension parts, SuperSprings leaf kit, diff drop, Reese trailer brake control, GoRhino Hitch Step, debadged, F-150 rear bumper, Sequoia center console unit upgrade, partial rear bench seat delete, dashcam, aftermarket speakers, 50% sound deadening coverage, custom tools unit.
    Are yours leaking oil too? Appreciate that. I used some Home Depot brand that came in a gallon and didn't really cut through the grease, I'd get a better degreaser you have to measure out so you can make it stronger.
     
    Volt92 likes this.
  16. Feb 17, 2020 at 6:38 AM
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    The main outside gaskets are not leaking but a few of the spark plug tube seals appear to be leaking.
     
    theblurry1 likes this.
  17. Feb 17, 2020 at 7:36 AM
    chrisb

    chrisb scumbag

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    Changed the CSB outside Saturday morning. (My Tundra is too long for my garage) Was a little brisk, but the whole thing came apart and went back together easily.
    Sunday, I tried to disable the TPMS via the varied info available on this forum and failed miserably. So I put it back together and I'm going to pull the darn bulb from the cluster next weekend.
     
  18. Feb 17, 2020 at 7:38 AM
    speedtre

    speedtre New Member

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    I'm guessing you won't because I don't think navigation or a camera was available in that early...but once you know what to look for, you can find out in about 5 seconds once you have the radio out. If I was you, I would hope for that, but expect to need to pull it from somewhere else... @empty_lord has a location very near the H/U that seems good as you've probably seen or you can pull it from the kick panel area. I routed my video cable through the hole under the driver seat floor that has a rubber grommet. I cut a + in the rubber grommet and pulled it through there and then ran it through the kick panel area and up and through the dash. If you do that, then you can just tap the reverse wire in the kick panel area and then run it along with the video cable up through the dash to the back of the head unit like @artsr2002 did.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...t-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-534#post-1630219

    I mounted the camera in the tailgate handle...it was really pretty easy to do....I just bought a new handle on Amazon and mounted it in there. My handle was fine...but I figured $17 and 14 YO, why not before it breaks on me.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q1L53RD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    I'll tell you...I'm a bit pissed off with this install at the moment and it's all my own fault...nothing particularly difficult about the install except my own impatience and some bad choices of timing on my part.

    1. I had never installed any stereo components in a vehicle before. The most I had done is replace the bad cone foam on my 2005 Tundra and replaced speakers only in my 2017 Tacoma (HUGE IMPROVEMENT, just from speakers, you honestly would not believe what utter cheap pieces of shit those stock speakers were unless you had them in your hands...they were soooo bad it made me question where else Toyota might has cut costs on those trucks, but I digress) and our 2016 Honda Odyssey (not nearly as big an improvement as the Tacoma...stock speakers were much better quality than Tacoma stock speakers). I started the "install" two weeks ago by first pre-wiring up the PAC RP4.2-TY11 to my new H/U. It interfaces with the stock JBL amp and steering wheel controls to retain them. It is pre-wired to work with multiple vehicles, so after I wired it up for my Tundra, I removed all the extraneous wires to save space.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B63G6ES/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    That took a couple hours because I was going nice and slow and double checking my work, but it was kinda fun actually. Since the H/U I'm using is a Android based H/U made in china, not all the connections colors or terms matched up wire for wire (like the RP line was labeled reverse and the HU end was labled "back" and the wire colors didn't match but in my case, with my truck, you don't actually hook them up to each other, cause the stock harness that plugs into the RP4.2 doesn't provide a reverse signal, so you need to connect the reverse signal from somewhere else, in this case the unused wire on the stock radio wiring harness) directly to the HU and bypass the RP4.2). Having said that, the HU is thoroughly labled and the things that don't match up directly are pretty easy to figure out.

    2. I started my actual install this Saturday because the weather was great, but I got a later start than I wanted and I had a time constraint because I was taking my 14 YO daughter to a Tesla concert for her upcoming 15th birthday. Well, I was a little confused on the camera wiring, so that took most of my time Saturday but I finally figured it and ran all the wires except for the reverse signal. I took out the stock radio and hooked up the HU and confirmed everything was working except the switch to the backup camera with going into reverse and called it a day after probably 3 hours thinking I would finish it up yesterday.

    3. Well, yesterday, unlike Saturday was cold and wet...and though I most of the work was to be done in the truck, I had to tidy up the wiring in the back of the truck first...which was no fun in the rain....grrrr. I got a later start again, hoping the rain would stop, but never did, so I just got to it. And this is where my bad decisions played a part. I totally forgot that I posted the video about the reverse signal behind the HU to someone else and spent 1/2 my time yesterday looking for other ways to do it. Once I finally had my memory jogged by someone here about the reverse signal behind the HU, I was 90% finished. All I needed to do at that point was run the wires through the headliner for the GPS and DVR camera, but I was running out of daylight at this point and decided just to pack it all up, put the stock radio back in and finish it all next Saturday AM. Well, the HU I'm using is a 10.1 inch screen, so it's not integrated with the double DIN unit, but rather attached to it with a ribbon cable. I was taking this apart, but it was stubborn and I pulled too hard and one of the ribbon cable wires came out...now I have to try and get a new ribbon cable...I have no idea how long that will take.

    upload_2020-2-17_10-23-10.jpg



    I have to say though, that when I had this wired up and working and attached to my home wifi and downloading apps to use it was cool as shit...the screen looked great (we tested an Aliens collectors edition DVD on it...looked and sounded awesome). With the GPS you have all kinds of GPS app options on Google Play. I will definitely post up final pics whenever I'm done installing it. I'm guessing it will work with the ribbon cable as it is, but some of the color will not quite look right, so I'll probably finish the install with this cable and just work on getting a new one...you don't have to remove the HU to put this new cable in, it should be a 5 min job once I get a new one.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQWQ6CD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2020
  19. Feb 17, 2020 at 8:12 AM
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    @speedtre nice descriptive write up there. I'm not looking forward to the install either, particularly the backup camera. I'm trying to envision a scenario where I would need to use the backup camera when the truck isn't in reverse. Anyways, I'm not clear what the PAC RP4 does? Why did you need that? Last question, did you go with the Nakita backup camera?
     
  20. Feb 17, 2020 at 8:24 AM
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Saw it right off

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    Semi crappy day but chose to start preparation for AF/Oxygen sensor replacement due to live data reading results. The downstream should be straight forward but the AF sensors sure are in a crappy/crammed in space. Tried for a bit to get the AF sensor plug undone simply to check the heater circuit resistance(FSM 1.8-3.4 ohms @ 68* F) but will give that a go for now. The downstream results were what I suspected due live data results....B2S2 resistance was high(FSM 5-10 ohms @ 68* F), mine was 15 ohms but could be due to being only 40* F here right now and B2S2 showed an open heater circuit. In any case, I've done my preliminary checks and will await purchase of sensors and a sensor socket for removal. Also will wait for a little warmer weather given that AF plug is gonna be a bitch. If I still drank, I'm thinking 3 or 4 brewskies aught to help.
    Will use some of day preparing skid plate for painting until Nascar comes on.


    AF sensor B2S1.jpg

    B2S2....won't need sensor socket

    O2 sensor B2S2.jpg

    Skid Plate.jpg
     
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  21. Feb 17, 2020 at 8:27 AM
    speedtre

    speedtre New Member

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    Ask as many questions as you like. :)

    It does two things:

    1. It allows you to retain the factory steering wheel controls (it's not the only option for this, just FYI)
    2. it allows you to retain the factory JBL amp.

    It plugs directly into your factory JBL harness. If you are replacing the AMP and speakers then obviously, you don't need this. If you are going with a HU that Crutchfield sells, You might want to consider paying them the $24 for the pre-wire of the H/U interface. It would be well worth it time wise, if you don't like the idea of doing the wiring.

    upload_2020-2-17_11-26-30.jpg


    And yep, I went with the Nakita...seems like a very solid product so far. Nice picture and the metal construction feels quality.
     
  22. Feb 17, 2020 at 8:34 AM
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    Cool thanks. I wired in my current cheap-o stereo in 2018 so I'm down with that. But seeing how clean their work is I will likely pay the money to have them do it. It just looks nice. It's that camera that will be new territory for me. I think you've convinced me to mount the camera on my tailgate latch that way I still have the camera if I ever need to remove my topper.
     
    NUDRAT and speedtre like this.
  23. Feb 17, 2020 at 8:36 AM
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Reverse signal wires will
    Only be on trucks with factory nav. Aka likely double cabs very few access cabs
     
  24. Feb 17, 2020 at 8:41 AM
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol The "Mangler"

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    So where is this other location you identified that I could tap into?
     
  25. Feb 17, 2020 at 9:09 AM
    speedtre

    speedtre New Member

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    Check this post and the one it references...but I don't know if that will be there for your 2002.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...t-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-533#post-1629554

    Having said that, I think you have a 4 pin connector for towing, right? Which means no constant power. If that is the case, but you still want the reverse view anytime option, when you run the RCA cable from the rear of the truck to the HU, I would just run two additional wires. The first wire you tie into the reverse lights at the rear and the reverse wire on the HU, for the auto-switch to camera when going into reverses. The second wire, tie into the power for the H/U and attach it to the power for the camera so the camera is powered whenever the HU is powered. You will have 3 wires running from front to rear, but running them all at the same time is easy and you can wrap them up nice and neat. :thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2020
  26. Feb 17, 2020 at 10:01 AM
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    I’m not sure if your 02 will
    Have it, but up by the airbag there’s junction connectors. The reverse signal is in the blue connector closest to the bag on the passenger side.

    your other option is to tap into it from the gauge cluster
     
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  27. Feb 17, 2020 at 11:10 AM
    JustGotDuals

    JustGotDuals New Member

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    So, after the dealership today...they said I will potentially need new axles and bearings if they are messed up and toner rings for sure. Also, there were bolts that held the axle to the housing that were the wrong size, etc. I showed the shop that originally did it and all he did was shake his head. I told him that I could only cover the inspection cost but he would have to cover the rest since I have paid him about $900 combined already for both times!! Its a steep mistake that he will have to pay for, $1100

    1581966544261237468143959021754.jpg
    15819665770857192494419047948203.jpg
     
  28. Feb 17, 2020 at 1:37 PM
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    "If they are screwed up"
    I love some genuine tech talk on invoices. Hope you get it worked out.
     
  29. Feb 17, 2020 at 2:09 PM
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    15,048
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Very expensive mistake. How is he reimbursing you?
     
    JustGotDuals likes this.
  30. Feb 17, 2020 at 2:13 PM
    JustGotDuals

    JustGotDuals New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2018
    Member:
    #17785
    Messages:
    112
    Gender:
    Male
    Well, the cost estimate the dealership gave me was their "worst casenario" where everything will need to be new. So after they finish up and give me a call, I will have them email me the invoice and he will pay me in either check or cash. I hope everything works out smooth, because I do not want to make a bigger deal out of it!
     

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