What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

If the truck had factory nav, it may be predicted for reverse. Other option is tap in from the cluster

 

Before DIY axle seals:





After failed DIY axle seals:

 

Mine hasn’t leaked.. and I replaced the whole axle shaft!

 

I'm sorry I'll stop now.

 

Hoping to not ever be in that corner. Yeah, the stealership sounds better. It will only cost me another $140 for them to do it over the twice failed mechanic shop.

DIY I’d have to buy $50 in parts so in reality $140-50=$90 is the premium I’ll be paying at stealer.

Failed shop is buying me some me some Akebono? rear shoes valued at $90 at NAPA. This will give me some opportunity to do a proper brake job and dial this rear axle/parking brake in once and for all (which actually is working great since the cable was installed inside the drum correctly). New shoes do not go in until the leak is for sure fixed!

Thanks for helping me let stealer do this.

 

Replaced the cigarette lighter assembly as mine was toasted (in the bad way). New lighter assembly, light ring and black trim piece.

Oh and I sold the Tacoma.

 

If they'll do it for a good price I'd go for it. Mine said $1000 and won't press my axles w/o the truck there.

 

Wana sell dat der supra for a song to me?

I have to try... lol

 

I can think of a song I’d sell it for but it would have to be a lot of em and by someone much cuter.

 

Stealer quotes $720 labor/material for one wheel:

1) New Bearing
2) All New Seals
3) New Retainers/ABS RING
4) Diff juice

 

You're not alone, I live just next door from that corner.

 

That ain't too bad. But if you're doing one side, may as well do both. Will you need new shoes or resurfacing of the drums?

 

New shoes will be provided by failed mechanics which will be installed by me. Nothing wrong with other side bearing so no need to spend the extra $720!

 

Not sure if resurfacing drums is worth it? They are the originals from 2002.

 

Crazy the difference in dealer prices. Mine charged $650 for 1 side and that included new brake shoes for both sides, oil change, and a tire rotation.

 

Island prices man...

 

‘Island’ pricing with special ‘Fantasy Taxes’. Anyhoo, I want this done right this go around like it should have been the first and second go around. Going into this I even asked/warned if this was something they wanted due to it being tricky.

Its amazing how much crap work I find coming from all different cars and performed various shops. Guess everyone is in a hurry to do things twice?

 

That I get but @bmf4069 for $1k in TX is bananas, they weren't even going to charge me that for both sides.

 

THEY say everything is bigger in Texas

 

Alright, it's story time so bear with me:

Back in '15 I sold my dad's tundra (Ironman) back to my dad and went up to Tulsa for a little lake time. My uncle owns a Chevy stealership and I wound up coming home in a spanking new '14 z71 for $28k. At the time I was sure I couldn't afford it so I got home and with dealer tags still on and only 400 miles I went to the toyota lot who had a '10 DC 4wd stick tacoma that I figured I'd trade for for lower payments. After the initial offer I walked. They said my spanking new z71 was worth $18k and their tacoma $24k. So I woulda owed more. Street Toyota in amarillo is a God awful stealership worthy of that title. They had a 94 auto NA supra with 80k miles for sale a year or 2 ago for 60k. They're insane.

So here in lies my problem with my axle seals. Cousin humping knuckle draggers, or toyota badged knuckle draggers.

 

Including prices.

 

no such thing

I managed to get cement splatter on the passenger side of the bed today. Not sure how. Now I'm looking in to how I can remove it.

 

Maybe he is talking for both sides? Not sure. I’d love those prices of yours.

I’m eating the brake labor on the failure of others out of a long term relationship with this mechanic. He helped me a lot when I got my first car, so there is some respect being paid. His body is toast from years of wrenching which is becoming evident, sadly.

 

These OEM engine filters seem to have a sweet oily layer film and thicker bellows folds on them when compared to the Peoples Republic Type. Worth the extra$.

Cabin Air Filters quality is not distinguishable. PRC gets the nod on those.

 

Did you ever do that TS mod and if so how did it go ?

 

I tried my own inside blower filter variation using a STP engine filter on the negative pressure side and it wasn’t worthy. There is not enough room to properly do anything that is easily exchangeable. The other version is a filter at the cowl screen, but who wants to remove that every 2 months to change a filter not designed to get wet? Its a case of no good options.

 

Probably wouldn't want to measure the air quality in my truck no more than I want to watch the cooks prepare my meal at China Buffet but after 10 years of owning, I have honestly never even thought of missing one. Hell, my 69 Chevy pickem up didn't have one and We did fine

 

Our trucks have cabin air filters!??

 

No