What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Meh. Too Chevy for me.

 

Us speedo makes it. 110 bucks. Apparently comes with tools to take needles off
Us made stainless


Carid sells them

 

There is a certain … energy to this.

 

I dunno if falsity, but I recall there was a dash bulb on some Saabs that if it burned out broke a circuit. I want to say it was a battery warning light, if burned out would break the charging circuit. Something like that. So might be some truth. Electrical Engineers do like to have their sly fun on us.

 

Am I missing something? I haven't seen my truck since Friday at 8am so forgive me.

 

The battery bulb on the dash is one of them. Do not a swap this bulb with led!

 

According to what I have read and by looking at the FSM electrical circuits, I felt confident in changing all the ones shown with a 1 in your picture except turn signals and high beam because they are not dimmable and in my face too much. Also did not change Batt Warning because of what I had read and until I confirmed, I left it alone. I also chose not to change the grey socket marked fuel for same reasons and also because it was not the same size and appeared to be resistively influenced according to the circuit diagram.

 

Just a fancy black stainless gauge face. Pointless but I kinda like it. Not much different than factory though. Other than me not having to Sand my green off

 

Even in the dry this truck wants to kick the ass end out. Really wondering if a cap is the right move just for the weight in the back.

E range tires are not helping

 

Bat and fuel light are resistive. I’d advise changing those as you didn’t your fine

 

Steel rear bumper

 

bed cap made a slight difference with my truck. Not huge, but barely noticeable. I’m guessing it would do more for a long box.

 

I don’t think that’s enough more weight.



unless I put compartments for lead ballast in it

 

Yeah the stock bumper is close to 100lbs, most of the aftermarket are 100-120ish, so not much gain, which is nice if your not looking for more weight

 

Kind of just the nature of trucks. Even my gutless 93 toyota would kick its rear end out if in 2WD. Even the summer it was in 4WD most of the time just so I wouldn't sit and spin at traffic lights....and that truck could barely get up the hill on the way home at 50mph if I was lucky, screaming away in third gear.

 

High clearance bumper, more steel than a regular steel bumper... It's a start.
oh a tool box.

 

Ah my bad. I bought those t-5 to replace the glovebox light. Someone said it was a t-5 74 so The T-5 I bought said they support 74. But the chart says LED is 74 not t-5.

 

Not sure how you are feeling this kicking out. After my suspension and sway bar delete I notice the back end comes out more. It's an interesting kick out with more momentum to it than I'm used to. My prerunner is a light switch compared to this thing. My tundra requires more planning to throw the back end out haha. Yesterday morning I had some fun on a tight on ramp. Maybe it wasn't the best idea with one hand holding coffee, but it's still controllable. I just notice I'm not using the throttle to hold the slide much. By the time the ass kicks out I'm probably off the gas almost, if not completely.

 

My 01 double cab taco never had the issue with the same exact wheels and tires.

 

Light throttle on a turn and the ass end kicks out. No effort. Lol

 

Consider yourself lucky then that you don’t have silly nannies to keep you from doing this and cutting fuel.

 

Oh I’m glad to have no vsc. Can’t stand the shit.

just gotta make it a little more useable because the woman may need to use the truck. Probably will
Just add ballast somehow up in the bedsides I can take out.

 

Just curious, why would a heavier tire make this worse? I thought it might help slow things down.

 

T-5 should work there as well. When in doubt try it out. If it doesn’t fit, then acquit.

It took about three rounds of trial and error to get all my lighting right. I did all the bulb from Autozoned first due to availability being able to swap them easy in parking lot. Return them if wrong.

Waited on the T-bulbs and ordered them till everything else was dialed in.

 

Try the

$561 Hellwig 7700 Hellwig Rear Sway Bar Kit - 7700

Hellwig 7700 Rear Sway Bar.

My AC never was very sensitive on the kick outs due to having the Limited Slip, but once that sway bar went on she is planted!

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/06-...on-control-fishtailing-fun.36436/#post-958660

 

I can confirm the lsd is working after last night. Lol

 

Strongly considering doing my rear axle leak repair. Just writing it out loud here so someone can save me from myself. Hahhaha

After meditations, my reasoning based in Sensei logic:

1) Remove axle is easy with new impact wrench.

2) Based on youtubes most problem come from inner seal and retainer ring mating which is easiest part of job.

Strategy:

1) Remove axle with new impact wrench. Sensing a theme here?

2) Do an eyes on analysis of prior axle work.

3) Hoping that inner retainer ring is to far ‘inner’ and I can use metal fence post tapping to slightly adjust more ‘outer’. This is best case scenario. Testing using grease on retainer, axle install and remove for analysis of proper mating.

4) If inner ring is ‘too far outer’, then cut off retainer with Dremel Tool. Buy new retainer ring and install it using metal fence post tappings. Do grease mating test and analysis.

Trying to avoid going to a press place or buying a press for one time use. If the above fails, then off to $tealership for $700?

 

If you pull the axle yourself and give a machine shop the measurement (I can give them to you) they should be able to
Get the retainer right. For cheap

 

Post up those measurements please. Thank you!