What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I did “tucson wash” trail with about 15 other rigs from “southern Arizona offroad” mainly jeeps and a huge long bed double cab power wagon. Truck did great! I forgot to put it in 4low going over a big obstacle but my spotters got me thru it.....unscathed for the most part. I’ll update with pics once people start sharing them.
@KarmaKannon
Who’s needs sliders when you have pinch welds!!!! ME! I need sliders!

Question about your kick out, do you basically bend a 90 and then make one leg way shorter at the far rear to get that kickout action? Second, are you coping by hand, w a grinder or do you have a notcher? I think I might do all tube, no square stock

 

I think I bent the kickout to about 110-120* but it was just me experimenting. I used a notcher for the support tubes and I had to notch the main tube to the kickout by hand . Using the square tube just made it easy to keep everything square to the mounting legs, it was also less expensive than the round tube, and it will help keep the legs from acting independently and act more like a beam. Round tube would work fine for all of it but either you design the strength into it with thinner material or you use thicker material. I chose a little of both.

This picture might show the kickout tube angle a little better. It actually hits the 2x2 close to 90* at the rear.

 

Haha I had to read that twice, but I understand. Someone recommended round tube after seeing the sq tube on the 4runner sliders(the main) so I was headed that route, but your logic makes a Lil more sense

 

Well, more fun on the parts truck today. Getting all the surface rust off the bed and fenders before it gets colder and before I install them on my truck. Hoping to have everything prepped this weekend, an next weekend start moving parts over.

 

My mounts are also square so square cuts on these will keep everything squared to the mounts for and aft and tilt also. Round tube is just harder to make assemblies from in my opinion with some exceptions.

 

That’s the throttle motor. Don’t mess with it. Mess that bad boy up and your in the hole for a new throttle body. And they ain’t cheap

 

I also run 10-30 mostly because my engine has a lot of miles and I feel better with thicker oil.

 

My throttle motor occasionally locks up after I cancel the cruise control. A few pumps of the pedal and a restart and it is all better. Any idea on the cause?

 

http://www.lostakey.net/

 

Try swapping in the donor TB and see how she does. Experiment on the broken one. So we can see inside.

 

they get funky. big issue with those older ones. when you pump the throttle enough your mechanically pulling the plate. thats likely what frees it up. best bet is to try and clean out all the gunk in the throttle plate area

 

That SeaFoam Engine spray cleaner can penetrate into those butterfly pivots and clean them up. Its also a lubricant per the instructions.

 

Are you going to rhino line the bed?

 

Like it's been said, I ended up taking the mirror off to get at the bolts to make it easier as the closest to the door is hard to tighten and not scratch the door at the same time.

On another front, I tried and tried on the tailgate assist but I've given up. I was adamant about the strut being tucked into the channel between the tailgate and truck bed side metal. The issue is the space is small (vertically as well) and doesn't allow for much room.
The other issue was the 2 struts I tried measured:
'A' strut was 6" long closed and 9" fully extended.
'B' strut was 9.5" long closed and 15" fully extended.

Those points and really a bit in between on the longer one I couldn't get to line up anywhere. This may paint a better picture with 'A' strut. With the tailgate up/closed, the strut needed to be anywhere from 4-5.5" long and then with the tailgate open it needed to be longer than 9" to reach anywhere worth mounting. I gave it about 2 hours or creative thinking and I'm at a loss so I'm giving up for now.

 

Never give up. Re-group and reconsider the layout I did yesterday. Its extremely ideal and not in the way as much as one would think. Sure, having it tucked in is most ideal but not possible as alluded earlier. I really like mine. Was out there messing with it today. So smooth.

 

for now I’m going to paint the ground down spots with rust reformer, then paint, then clear.

after that, put a layer of fluid film on, and then put a bed mat in. If that’s too goopy I’ll probably go to a rhino line in the spring when it’s warm out.

 

Might I suggest you do the Rust Reform and then Rustoleum Bed Liner (3-4 cans for about $35) over that? I did it and its nice. Put the OEM bed liner back in over the newly sprayed bed and then sprayed the plastic bed liner with Rustoleum, as well. Stiffens it up and refreshes it.

 

Either way, the fluid film over the bed is a good idea in Minnesota. Put that on last and it's not going to rust. @Pudge is doing this with his truck in CT with good success.

@lsaami speaking of that, you should protect that new frame before winter sets in. Need to fluid film that thing.

 

Started working on replacing the stereo today. That was after spending the day working on my buddies 04 silverado.

 

er - uh oh?

We had some wind.
I get wind from the back of the property & from the front of the property. They meet in the driveway next to the house. I get these mini cyclones = tidy pile of leaves in fall, big ass pile of snow in the winter. Went outside for clean up & noticed something wrong with my pile of leaves.

There shouldn't be any 'silver' leaves...
UH OH.


Who the hell painted the hood of my Tundra? I need to be sure not to go back there. Holy cr*p - it wasn't 'that' windy!

 

Well shit. I’d be pissed

 

Guess if I ever have a free Saturday I'll see what the junkyard has in stock.
Seriously makes the truck look like a junker. ...and it was just some wind took it off.
Oh well, got the truck cheap. Starting to look like an expensive one would've been cheaper though.

 

A decent body shop will likely charge less for a decent paint job than trying to find a clean hood

 

In the meantime buy you some primer and Toyota white spray paint. It won't match like it supposed to because of aging process, but it'll look better and you've got nothing to lose now

 

lol - mine isn't that fast, it's silver. ;-)

 

X2 on this, ive had several Toyota’s and everyone of them has had problems with the factory paint.

 

Whoops... Silver then. I was thinking about my truck and my experience with the Toyota spray paint.

 

Nice thought. The issue here is that it’s freezing here already, and bedliner is a bit more picky than my hack of a paint touch up thy I can redo in the spring.

that’s the plan. I washed it today to get the salt off. I plan to do a thorough fluid filming when I take the bed off so I have easy access to all sides.

 

It's a sign! Your truck is becoming faster as the silver gives way to black! Don't fight it, help it!

PAINT IT BLACK!

 

What thickness did you go with for the 2x2 and the round?