What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

It takes longer for me to find one posted here than it does via Google.

 

That'd be a big fucking mistake. Dude. No.

One of the members on here, maybe @Redoak either had or one of his friends had their Gates timing belt snap after 40k-50k miles.

Dude. Buy Aisin. Get the kit that ends with -021 in the part number. Even if you only use the belt, but while you're in there, you may as well replace the pulleys and stuff, and I mean ... water pump. It's all in the kit.

 

Gates HD green serpentine belt is fine, but NOT timing belt.

 

Found the cause of my intermittent overheating issue. Turns out the guy that did my TB left it a full gallon short of coolant. I was adding it one resi bottle at a time because it would all disappear when it got cold and realized I just needed to fill the radiator. Burped it and now it's sitting at halfway. Gonna drive it to the office and see if it makes it.
Also ditched my LED projectors for halogens, the LEDs simply didn't turn on and I didn't want to eff around with figuring out why. Now after a month of ownership, I have highs, lows and the fogs even work. Like a real boy!
Finally got the receiver that was rusted in place off because it in turn had a hitch rusted inside it that looked like it hadn't moved in about 15 years. Gonna wire wheel and paint the one from the donor and finally have an empty hitch. Also scored a tow harness from the donor and got that plugged in too.

 

Yup, I'm using HD green serp too.

@Upshot Knothole Mitsuboshi (not Mitsubishi) is OEM for the timing belt, and that's what's included in the Aisin kit, along with the tensioner, pulleys, Aisin (same as OEM) water pump, etc.

 

Did you go with 100w halogen and upgraded harness or back to regular halogen? You installed led projectors in the halogen housings but they wouldn't turn on?

 

I'm talking about the serpentine belt. I already said I have the AISIN TB kit sitting in a box.

 

Yeah, I'm asking about all the other stuff to replace while having the AISIN kit installed.
Thermostat, fan bracket, serpentine belt, pulleys, tensioner, radiator, hoses, etc. The only Gates kit I was referring to was this one.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9118632

 

Just went with regular halogens. I hooked up the leds right when I got them and they worked, but after doing all the work to mod the housings they never turned on again after I installed them.

 

Hmm. Sounds like they failed. Hearing about the lack of longevity with the projectors in other threads so preinvesting in matching spares for future swaps has been disuading this mod. But having new housings with clear lenses again even with regular halogesns has been a great "upgrade" from the fogged housings and repeated sanding. May do it one more time on the OEs removed ... and clear them proper as spares.

 

eBay battery retainer arrived and installed.


And these Hella horns will always make me smile and think of Subarus. I do need to see if I can make them more symmetrical at some point since they’re totally visible through the grill.

 

I’d be surprised if both failed simultaneously, I’m more inclined to think there was a voltage issue that was confusing the truck.

 

Was the resistor used?

 

Didn’t have one, just ballasts or whatever it needed inline between the facroy harness and the projectors

 

Not having fun anymore. Trying to limp this thing home while it over heats every 1/4 mile

 

Sorry youre having so much trouble with your FGT right now. That really sucks dude!

 

Can’t seem to get enough coolant into it. Don’t think I have a leak, just think it has a bunch of air in it still.

 

Looks like the radiator cap has been squirtin'. You know how to get 'em hot, and make 'em squirt, my friend.

Seriously though, run the truck with heat on full blast. I was gonna ask if you're sure it's overheating, but based on the top of the radiator, I'm thinking it may really be.

Have you squeezed all the tubes to see if any aren't firm when running?

 

Just poured a half gal of coolant into it after ubering to O’reiley and it just ran out of the bottom of the plastic on top so the rad has bit the dust. I guess I need to order a denso but I’ve been pouring money into this thing and still can’t drive it. Might need to take a break.

 

Sorry to hear. But good news is if it's leaking that much then it's likely diagnosed and repair is contained to about $200 for rad and coolant with a fairly straight forward swap.

 

Sucks man. Them battery terminals lookin seksy tho

 

If I basically overheated this thing to steaming 4 times in 2 hours what do I need to look for to make sure I didn't trash the engine? As soon as it hit the red, I pulled over and turned it off.

 

Coolant in oil or transmission fluid, or oil in coolant would be the first things I'd check. Make sure you didn't blow a head gasket or break the transmission cooler than runs through the radiator.

 

I’m sure it’s fine, make sure the front end of your truck is facing uphill to the rear so that your radiator cap is the highest point in your cooling system, crank the heat on full blast start your truck and add coolant until thermostat opens and no bubbles are coming out. Squeeze hoses like stated as well.

 

@Nimitz_
With the Fill/Funnel kit this was how I burped it to get better heat, took longer than you might think. Make the rad cap the highest point (truck on angle on the hill), heat temp dial on high. Squeezing hoses and revving the engine a bit to burp air out. About 30-45 minutes.

 

Thanks brochacho. I did mine on ramps on my inclined driveway but didn’t run the heat. Just ordered a rad so I’ll get another chance to practice.

 

Of the things these trucks need done this one of the easier ones. Not good to have that leak/failure, but better than the trans fluid milkshake that you can't see....
If your HVAC heat control knob is hard to turn (like mine was) sometimes the cable wont open the valve all the way. Here is what fully open, and closed looks like on the valve on the firewall. You can move it by hand if it's not opening up fully.
Shout out to @whodatschrome for those HVAC parts!

OPEN


CLOSED


Pretty self explanatory, but making sure that valve is fully open makes a big difference.
Good luck with the radiator coming undamaged!

 

Is it worth trying to save the coolant? It’s probably got 100 miles on it and is like a month old.

 

Full polish and Ceramic coat today, including the entire SnugTop. 91 and humid outside today (hard on a snow monkey). It was so nice to have a 75deg space, with tunes blasting to work in.
Not sure why I bought that polisher, it's a piece. Any recommendations on a good variable speed rotary that's mid price range?

 

I would, but I'm cheap AF. I don't see why not. I'd probably strain it on the way back in maybe...