What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

theres a c-clip.i used a vise, and had metal scraps to build it to fit. But the uppers were coming off because i got jba’s when i did my lowers.

 

Changed LBJ, and gave her a bath today.

 

Tell em about frank beating it, and you gave a sweet touch and it exploded apart.

 

This about sums it up.
https://youtu.be/SAJcJsmH14A?si=qPuWasy665OHFY0n

 

Ok, I can’t get this damn thing to budge. Even put a jack under the A arm to get more room to swing a hammer. Threads are already fucked so it’s not going back together and I need it on the road tomorrow.

 

Pitman arm puller. If it won't pop naturally with a ratchet, hit it with an impact. Or skip the shenanigans and go straight for the impact, which is what I typically do with pitman/idler/LBJ.

 

That's what suspected. The O'reilly's near me has a rental and it in stock for purchase.

 

I dunno if they'll have the same one I have, I don't remember where I got mine. But the top ears slide right over the LCA. If it's a cheap part store one, and the fit isn't tight, you may want to clamp the sides of the arms so they can't spread. Then crank on the mandrel, it should pop free.

 

Just went through that today. Like shifty said pitman arm puller. Mine were so tight I mushroomed the end of pitman arm puller. Tighten it up as much as I could then hammer on control arm, then repeat.
Rented mine from oreillys and they took it back even though I showed them it was basically ruined.
Also break your ball joint loose before removing your 4 bolts as the spring helps by pushing them apart.

 

Always go for the puller. I learned quickly in life though there are many ways to skin a cat, there are one or two ways that are just plain convenient every time.

 

Front end service kit #10 from Advanced Auto had both pitman arm pullers for the tie rod end and LBJ. That’s what I used. Autozone also sells them relatively cheap individually.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...aller/p/oemtools-pitman-arm-puller/555623_0_0

 

I was successful with a pickle fork, but that’s just what I had, puller would be better.

 

Yeah, you definitely lose some leverage on any action you put on the thing once the 4 bolts are out.

 

Since no one has said it I will
HEAT!
A little heat goes a long way
Heat is your friend
Mapp gas in particular
Then commence beating the fk out if it.
I feel your pain, way over here in Michigan.
You'll getter done

 

This tool works perfectly for lower ball joints
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER2289?impressionRank=3

 

And still stuck. I knew that video made it look too damn easy. I’ll be lucky if I get one side done today at this rate.

 

Get yourself a pickle fork. Every toolbox should have one. Popped mine loose in 3 or 4 hits with a baby sledge.

 

This is why I was talking about clamping the jaws together, to avoid spreading. Keeping tension on it and whacking the end point of the LCA can sometimes help trigger release on other stuff I've done, as mentioned above. And I'd have reinstalled the LBJ to the knuckle before trying.

Everything most people need for LBJ right here. Bob's yer uncle. Fork for TREs, pitman puller for LBJs. The puller on bottom here has popped my LBJ off on each side 3x now. But I'm not in a rust state, so it may be a factor.

​

 

I build motorcycles so I’m no stranger to stuck suspension bolts. Just a little annoyed that when I said I was gonna order up a set of pullers last night people on here said I didn’t need them and not to bother.

I didn’t see your post about clamping it until it was already fucked.
I’ll see if I can find an auto parts shop with a pickle fork today. I need to get this done today.

 

That’s the thing, I’m not in a rust state either. Tie rod popped right out and the rest of my suspension looks good.

 

Hard to believe that it didn’t come out. The rust doesn’t even look that bad and I assume you didn’t have the weight of the spindle/rotor on top of it, did you? Still it really shouldn’t matter.

 

First of all get the jack out from under the A frame. Jack the truck up, not the suspension. Then either hit it where indicated with a heavy hammer or, drive a pickle fork in where indicated and hit it as hard as you can with a heavy hammer, claw hammers won't get it done.

 

Pounding on that spot did it. Thanks!
The jack is just there to keep the A arm up higher to make it easier to work on. The truck is sitting on jack stands.

 

Yay!

 

The OTC Front End Kit has saved me a ton of frustration. I just don't like the "pound on it" methods.

 

New stickers and rear gears upgrades.

 

I got the passenger side all finished. Started trying to pull the drivers side tie rod and that thing did not want to budge. I was pounding on the front of the LBJ where the tie rod goes through to the point that it was denting. I'm gonna order up the front end tool kit and do the other side later in the week or next weekend. Main thing was getting the truck back together today so I can use it in the morning.

 

Good work. I’m humbled now. I can use a puller and the everything pretty much pops out without issue. I also don’t live in a rust state though .

I still think doing strut work on these trucks is a b*tch though. Lifting struts of not. Double time for lifting struts.

 

What gearing did you go with?