What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

@FirstGenVol aftermarket links are fine, its basically a bolt with a joint on the end. How's the install going?

 

This is good affirmation of what I have experienced. I’d say the biggest noticeable difference after doing mine were the gears holding longer with better shift points and a noticeable downshift when slowing in speed. Yes on the throttle response, but not a drastic increase. Definitely noticeable, but slight.

Glad they are working out for you!

 

My last off-road trip made it pretty obvious that I needed more tie-down points, so i did this today.

I also used the optional fold down shell window that the previous owner splurged on to clean between the cab & the shell. Definitely worth it.

 

Not good. I tapped out. I wasn't able to remove the upper ball joint and I'm pretty sure my LBJ is toast. I went to the dealership today and paid a premium for new LBJs which won't arrive until Wednesday.
I underestimated how difficult it would be to remove that upper ball joint. I couldn't make either kit from advance work. I don't own a compressor or air hammer and really don't want to buy both.

I put the truck back together but I don't think it's safe to drive with the UBJ like this. The boot is gone.



I'm disappointed in myself but it's been a good lesson. Until this part the rest of the job is fairly easy. I hate that I might have to pay someone to do this. I don't even want to attempt the LBJ's. Just for grins I asked the dealership how much they would charge (just labor) to do this work... $1,200-1,400they estimated 10 hours. I told them if I had the right tools and a lift even my dumbass could do it in 8. I guarantee they could do it on 4-5.

I got so frustrated with it that I didn't even install the super bumps which is pathetic.

After seeing how much these bumps are going to rub I'm not gonna install them. I can't imagine they will last long under constant rubbing. I'll wait and see what the other ones look like.

 

Nothing wrong with regrouping and paying someone else to finish it off. I’d take it to a four wheel center and let them do it as you may get a better price versus the stealer.

I bet you could’ve finished this job if you had about 5 days in a row to do it. I know thats about what I estimated (two days learning curve and three more days work) prior to paying a shop to do it which took them two full days (for full front rebuild) and they do this all the time.

 

The truck just rolled 90k.

 

just an FYI, the LBJs are WAY easier. they bolt in compared to being pressed in like the uppers.

The uppers are really tough. If I remember right I had to kinda twist the spindle to a wild angle and get the press all the way up and in place. It's a really right squeeze. Just be careful. I dislocated my CV doing that.

 

@FirstGenVol One other think you could try is renting REALLY BIG tie rod separator.


The dealership charges so much because they pull the entire spindle out. If I were you, I'd just take the extra time and pull the spindle. it's a headache, but you could do bearing upgrades or other stuff while you're at it.

 

I recently did some suspension work on my 2006 DC. Part of the work included putting in new upper control arms and I was worried about removing the upper ball joint. I know that you've had some difficulty from what I've read. I found that the right tools make all the difference and it turned out to be easier than I thought. I purchased this and it made it a breeze since it's made specifically for our trucks.

https://www.chaosfab.com/accessories/2000-2006-Tundra-Ball-Joint-Removal-Tool-96005

I don't know if you decided to just go ahead and have the dealership do it for you. With the usual C-clamp tool that you can rent for free this worked well for me. Not trying to make you second guess having someone else finish what you started but I thought it might be useful information. Best of luck with whatever you decide.

 

Lower ball joints were pretty easy IMO. Lots of videos on YouTube for both the upper & lower ball joints. I haven't yet attempted the uppers. The dealership mechanics should be able to do LBJ & UBJ in less then 2 hrs per side. Probably more like 1 hr per side. You need the Asian ball joint adapter for the UBJ. I used this tool for the LBJ.

Maybe another member in your area could assist you?

$35 GEARWRENCH Ball Joint Separator | 3916D

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3...teway&sprefix=gearwrench+b&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

 

I'm not sure I'm comfortable removing the spindle. I was already pushing my limits skill wise. I was getting so aggressive with everything 'm pretty sure I damaged the LBJ, which is fine because they likely need to be replaced.

The truck is my daily driver so I really can't have it down much longer. If I had more time I might keep trying.

Appreciate the help though. This weekend did not go as planned.

 

Get some 555 from Napa. Good shit.

 

That's my current plan. I'll do the equivalent of the "walk of shame" when I see them tomorrow. I just hope they don't rape me. $500 I can handle. $800 starts to hurt.
I just hate that I'm likely going to have to tow it.

Appreciate the tips. That tool looks promising. I didn't see an option to actually buy it though? I'll check again tomorrow from an actual computer.

I tried both a 6 and 8" C clamp and couldn't get either to work.

 

Damn I wish I had those kinda miles. You're just berely getting her broken in lol

 

Here's another link with an option to buy. Sorry about the other link. or

https://www.yotamasters.com/shop/tools/total-chaos-ball-joint-removal-tool/

I used an 8.75" C-clamp overall length with 6" space between the jaws. It was a tight squeeze but using an impact drill it came out easier than I thought.

Hope this helps.

 

I brought it about 2 months ago. The mileage, condition and female owned for the last 8 years kinda made me give up my 2001. I gave her $8,000

 

Just an FYI, I recently did new CV shafts & seals, rotors & pads, LBJ & outer tie rod ends. The second side (3rd really) took me less then 3 hours, not working fast. I have an air compressor and air tools which make the CV shaft easy. This was my first time doing this kind of job.

Good Luck!

 

@FirstGenVol don't give up bro. What you might need to do, since you're doing LBJ as well, take the spindle off. I don't know how hard it is to pull the axle out of the spindle, can't be that bad. Then you can get the tool on the UBJ properly and put your LBJ on.

I've done my lower ball joints 3 times, I always take the spindle off to do that. Lower ball joints are way easier. Pickle fork them out of the arm and its 4 little bolts. Use blue loctite when installing the bolts back in.

 

Anyone have the part number for the stupid plastic parts that attach to the tailgate handle? Mine are broke and when I went to open the tailgate today it wouldn't open

 

That's a steal!
I paid that much for mine with 199k miles lol
Plus now you got 30 extra ponies and a 5th gear

 

You may have to replace the handle assembly

 

I was hoping not to do that. I know at some point I saw a post about using something available from a parts supplier but I haven't been able to find it with my searching. Seemed like it was something universal.

 

No part number but Napa has them.

 

Thanks! I'll see what I can find.

 

Plus it's a double cab.
Wholesale value is around $10,000 and retail would be around $14,000. I couldn't say no at $8,000

 

I paid $17 for aftermarket tailgate handle on Amazon. Works like a charm.

PT Auto Warehouse TO-3951S-TG -...

$21 PT Auto Warehouse TO-3951S-TG - Tailgate Handle, Smooth Black (Replaces 69090-0C030-C0, 690900C030C0, 690900C030D0, 690900C030G0, 690900C030A0, 690900C030B1, 690900C030J0)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BITR9GU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

Results(yes I know I need new off road lights):

 

Replaced the rear shocks, Put OME's from Toytec. It rides so much better on the roads, but also felt good with some mild offroad. Now need to do the shackle bushings and decide what to do about the springs.

 

I don’t, I bought it used but never installed it. A friend ended up selling me a different one with some newer features. I’ll PM you tomorrow when I can get the model number and everything.

Damn that sucks. I’ve done UBJ’s twice and always took the spindle off. So much easier to remove the joint that way. The LBJ bolts are easy and I’m not sure if you’ve ever messed with the CV’s. Removing the CV from the spindle is easy, but a little more work.

Some have use a angle grinder and cut off the top portion of the UBJ so the tool can fit better. Hopefully you can get some help instead of paying a fortune at shop.

Worse case, remove the spindle and drop them off at a shop. Probably cost $50 tops to get the joint removed and be good practice removing the spindle.

I replaced my entire handle with an Amazon one and it’s worked great. Obviously not color matched but I have a bike tailgate pad so it didn’t matter to me.

 

Yeah I feel like links are links they are so easy to replace that it shouldn't matter the quality