What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

How full was the overflow before?
Looks like maybe something is leaking in the area of the throttle body, but maybe only when the truck is hot and the system is under pressure?

 

Dude. Your fucking fan isn’t moving. Stop running your engine at temp!

What the shit. Does it spin at all? Is there any resistance? Does it wobble by hand? So many questions, either clutch is bad or fan bracket/its bearing is bad.

 

Should have said in the notes but I took the serp belt off to get a better listen at the noise. Clutch fan is new. Works fine. No wobble. Pressure tested the coolant system and I didn’t see any leaks or issues.

 

Whew. Holy crap. Yeah, I missed the lack of belt.

Whatever it is, it’s pulsing in rhythm with the engine. I would expect intake gasket would be more of a hissing but possibly sucking. Else it’s something spinning with the timing belt, which makes me think pulley.

 

It looked like UPS put something heavy on top of the box and bent it up. But I called them this morning and they said they can send a new one (currently on backorder of course smh) and i can throw away the damaged one. Was pretty much hassle free

 

I read somewhere some 20 years ago that "....any speed above 60 mph has to overcome so much drag that one is simply wasting fuel."

From 2003 until 2009 I had the sweetest little car, a Honda Civic 4 banger, auto tranny. I did a lot of trips between southern WV and Charlotte, NC. She'd get an average of 38 mpg at 75 mph cruising speed. In 2006 I had some free time, not in a hurry, and on that same trip I decided I'd try cruising at 55 mph. HO LEE FUK. She got 50 mpg! I had scheduled an EX model rear wing (OEM) to be put on and the next trip she got 48 mpg. I kept doing this. I kept seeing great gas mileage averages.

I run 50 to 55 and sometimes 60 mph in the Tundra, on the brief times I hit the interstate to and fro the little "city" we mow a lot in. Drawing from memory, I'm averaging, calculated at fill up, 13 ish when towing a trailer and I think I got 17 mpg once without towing that week. I generally try to "hypermile" red lights, timing my braking to still be rolling when the light changes back to "green." Truck is the 4.7 liter V8, 4wd. Probably original spark plugs. I could afford to change those sometime I guess.

***
Yesterday (it's nearly 1 AM Sunday now) I used the truck as a closet since I keep my weed eating clothing in there. Did our yard and the neighbor.

 

looks like it’s shooting out of a bunch of places but check out by the over flow tank. You can see the sharp line on the battery and nothing above it. Could be a bad radiator cap

 

is she hot?

 

I'd call this the poor man's form-a-funnel, but I've been using M1 filters so I don't think I can claim that.

Credit to one of you beautiful bastards that I got the idea from.

 

The whirled peas method.

 

M1s are my jam

 

Hey man that's supposed to be free rust prevention

 

Curious what you guys think about this ignition coil. I noticed it's turning brown near the top I was changing my spark plugs last summer, but it's not throwing any codes so I've just been carrying two spare denso coils (from rock auto). The rest of the coils were all black. Idle is just a hair rough, like it misses every once in a while, but not so bad that you'd notice if you weren't paying attention. Not sure if that's completely normal, I do have headers and an aftermarket intake tube (factory filter box though) which perhaps could affect things.
I suppose since I already have spares I can just try swapping them, but I figured I'd ask here since I just did the timing belt and as a result am over-analyzing every little thing as a potential sign of imminent 2uz-self-destruction.

 

Do we have a "What did you do to your plumbing at the shop while dialing in your new bowsight like an idiot" thread...? Happy Sunday gentlemen....

 

Looks fine to me, if you think you can feel it slightly missing you can toss your spare in and see if it helps. But every time I’ve had a small miss I get a check engine immediately.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-home-improvement-work-did-you-do-today.25160/

 

If I rolled 60’on the interstates here, I’d get shot at.

And do her momma look good?

BINGO! That’s why my front crossmember and surrounding suspension look good. I always use the same terry cloth, it’s saturated, and the frame gets a wipe down with at at every oil change.

Denso sells a re-boot kit with new spring and boot.

Beat me to it. That’s one hell of a centered shot!

 

Because I'm a nerd

 

Oye! A friend of mine did something similar while shooting darts one night. Of course the hole was a lot smaller but it still required turning off the water.

 

Today I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and inspected the air filter, it's clean so I'll check the filter again this fall. I also checked fluid levels... all is well. Leaving the hood up so the sun can sanitize the engine bay... I'll drive the '07 while that's happening.

 

New 5100s today, the rears are pretty interesting. Went with ome2885 springs, we’ll see how they feel soon.

 

My personal favorite.... What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today while sitting at the 1st gen Lunch Table

 

How much lift did the 885’s give you with a double cab?

 

I was told about 2 inchs but well see after it settles over the next couple months

 

Took a quick shot on the upper valve cover bolts and they appear to come off with little force after spraying them off/on for weeks now with Mopar rust penetrant. I figured they must’ve been loosening up since more oil soot reside was appearing at all entry points to the valve cover. It’ll be interesting to work the bottom ones on multiple extensions to see how easily they budge.

Also got a P01350?? on the driver’s upstream O2 sensor. Not sure if the code is right but it was telling me it was the heater element going bad.

More crap to do. Gotta love old vehicles.

 

No pics of the truck before/after?!

 

P0135 yup, no trailing zero.. I think that may be the most difficult sensor to break free, in the grand scheme of things?

I didn't know which zero was bogus in your code, P1350 is cam position sensor related, but I don't know that the pre-VVTi trucks will throw it. Or maybe just the 1st gens in general won't throw it? I dunno.

 

My drive way isn’t flat at all so pictures don’t really show much.

 

If you actually mean P0135, upside it’s easy resistance test, downside it’s a bitch to get to and sometimes hard to remove

 

Plan is to hit it with rust penetrant along with the passenger side. What I don’t know is whether that could cause it to fail prematurely by creeping down the wires before it’s loose enough to try and break free.

At least the penetrant is easy to control where it oozes out of the straw.