What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Looking at a 2000 V8 4WD (random) VIN, here's the timing cover area to get the standoff fastener: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck40/3802/engine/1106/

Weirdly, there's two part numbers, this is one 90109-06320, this is the other 90080-10317.

Apparently you know which is correct - deductive logic, I think? - based on Toyota's direct exploded in the Parts System, looks like the shape of the timing plate (11341 in the pic) dictates which to use. That's the best I can tell at least. It also shows a different part number passenger to driver, where bank 1/driver ends in 8 and bank 2/passenger ends in 7.

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I ordered 90080-10318
If you look up the other number on parts .Toyota.com it says its superceeded. Maybe because the old part number has the strength of room temperature cheese?

New seal in! Hopefully seated all the way

 

Driver and pass are totally different lengths

 

Ah, I thought you were holding the one up in front of bank 2. My comments refer to that fastener. Part ending -10318 is driver's side, and spikes thru one of the ears of the cam position sensor.

 

Ps - I dunno if the non-VVTi timing covers are like the VVTi timing covers on the '05+ but beware, there are (or may be) metal bushing-like metal inserts in the timing cover that can fall out, get lost, or if you're like @Weagle they can get launched into the inside of your hood with a BANG! by the belt.

 

Yup. Wish new covers weren't so expensive

 

Popping it out, slathering some grease on it or in the hole, and reinstalling will ensure they don't fall out (you may already know this trick, using grease to hold stuff in - clearly you're mechanically inclined feel free to tell me to shutup whenever ).

 

Helicoil?

 

Cheaper and easier to paint it?

 

I know enough to get myself into trouble

Anyone know if it's safe to use the screw trick to remove the crank seal? The seal puller I bought for the job broke when doing the second cam seal (perhaps user error?)


I also have one of these, but it seems a bit unwieldy


It seems like the crank seal is shallower than the cam seals and I don't want to damage anything that might be behind it.

 

My seal puller looks like the bottom one. Havent used it on the 2uz yet.

 

As it turns out that other seal puller didn't work very well for me. Like the cam seals the crank seal has a metal core, and I was just denting it. Ended up drilling a tiny hole and threading in a screw to pull it. Cleaned very carefully afterwards.

 

@RUSTYNUTS showed us a pretty effective way to remove the pre-2005 sales at one point, but hell if I can find the reply.

If I had a reasonable place to paint something that large that was convenient, I'd consider it. But wrapping is so much easier, and a no-brainer, that I dunno if I ever really want to paint anything again.

 

How much preload are you running on your coilovers, and what size tires! I’m still trying to fine tune my setup.

 

Have you watched tinkerers adventure videos on how preload is a red herring for harshness? (It's actually top out, likely from excessive lift or lack of rebound damping)

 

Swapped some LCA’s &

I’ve worked on enough trucks to know that preload is directly related to ‘harshness’. Its not magic, its math.