What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Sludge build up at the weep holes in the body channel create the leaking that runs down into the corners. Slide your window over and pull up on the rubber to partially remove. Clean it. Pour some hot water in the channel and poke the body holes. Water should exit out of the outside lower window trim frame as that is where the weep holes divert the water.

Dry everything out as best possible and spray some silicone spray to help keep things clean. Reinsert rubber and you are good to go.

 

There is a lot to process here, but I think I am coming to a better understanding now.

 

Oh yeah the 285/75/17 is perfect

I'm pretty fucking weird, you guys will figure that out soon

 

My buddy just did exactly this to his Chevy and hates how skinny they look. I think they look fine but the newer style BFG has a smooth bubbly look, the old BFG looked more rugged I think.

 

So I went by a local 4x4 shop yesterday to make an appointment for an alignment on Tuesday. They told me I should avoid a 16" wheel as they are "dying out". They also said I should stick with 285/70/17 and told me 285/75/17 is an odd-ball size I should avoid. They didn't seem interested in helping me trim to make room either.

I'm no closer to deciding what wheel and tire size to buy but I'm installing everything this weekend.

 

Off topic, but I want to shed a little light on a company doing stuff right by their customers. It's so common for a company to be put on blast when they mess up, so I wanted to give a little credit to Low Range Offroad for doing something cool.

Commonly when a place that I like has a 'comment' section for an order I will say something like, 'if you have any extra stickers laying around I would really appreciate a couple!'. Some places throw some in, some don't and that's not a big deal. I was already going to purchase from said company, but it can't hurt to ask!

So I made a small order for $30 2 weeks ago from Low Range Offroad, package arrived fast and there were a couple small stickers in there. Awesome! Well I check my mail yesterday and there is an over-sized envelope from Low Range Offroad. Not sure what it could be, so I open it and find a large assortment of high quality stickers. Not cheap ones, these were thicker high quality vinyl. They came all on their own with no additional orders from me. I'm super impressed by that. The shipping was on their own dime.



I know it's not a massive deal, but I think this was pretty cool. For me, if I can find what I am hunting for on their website, then they have earned a customer.

Oh and I just ordered new OEM complete lower control arms with the new bushings already installed (both sides) and both new OEM lower ball joints. And a new OEM gas cap, I keep getting that stupid P0440 emissions code and hoping the new $25 gas cap corrects that issue.

This place had the best OEM prices for most of the stuff I needed. Better than toyota parts deal and some of the others! https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/

 

I stuck with 16s when I got my tires. Some manufactures don’t make a whole lot of sizes for 16s anymore but they’re still out there and cheaper.

 

I need some stickers to finish my tool box if you got some extra you wanna share

 

Most of my other extra stickers are gun related, my other expensive hobby! I’ll check my stash and see what I have extra

 

Awesome thanx

 

Filled up and hand calc’d 12mpg. Lots of haul and city driving.

Pulled my battery out and removed the tray as I wanted to inspect/address some rust seen forming on the front edge just under the tray. No biggie after the tray was removed so I cleaned it up, put on some Ospho, and sprayed big box Bed Liner on the lower body metal mount plate.

Cut some butyl rubber and double lined both sides of the tray for padding/grip.

Cleaned up a resistor assy? (similar looking to the fuel pump resistor) located inside the drivers upper wheel well next to battery. Wire brushed it and sprayed some remnants of Fluid Film which reconditioned the Aluminum body/fins. Did the electric grease on the body bolt mount.

While the battery was still out was able to access a connector (a/c? just above and across from oil filter) and reseat it back on its hanger post. Timing belt service guy probs forgot to repost it.

Failed at trying to disconnect a couple of those connectors near and under the battery. Its almost like one needs a special tool for some of these connectors?

 

Take command of the situation and go get what you want unless you were asking for the guys advice.

Mostly, nobody cares anymore so it is up to you to make it happen.

Glad to hear the 16” wheels are “dying out” which means my ‘Patricks Editions’ will be worth gold soon!

 

I was probing them for advice but it became apparent that they really don't know much about our trucks. They mainly work on Jeeps.

Are you saying the shop doesn't care?

I agree with taking command. What I really want is 285/75/17's. Just not confident I have the skills to do the trimming.

 

Well put the 17’s on then man! They don’t care about what you want. Make it happen!

 

Hi Sunnier. Yes, that is a custom color off from the book with matte finish.

 

@FirstGenVol the alignment shop won't do any trimming. An off road shop might, but don't count on it.

You'll find that aside from a few shops, mostly the vendors here, nobody is familiar enough with our trucks to provide any helpful insight unless its general info.

Go with what you want. Ad far as trimming goes it isn't as crazy as you think. You have the early front bumper, it doesn't hang as low as to 03^ models so you might not need to trim it at all. The inner fender you pop out at the bottom where your fender meets the door. You'll see the pinch weld there, you have options. Either get a big hammer and beat each side inward towards the frame, or do some cutting, or do both. I would get the tires first and see how it drives before worrying, it won't stop you from driving. You'll only rub when turning and compressing hard, and even then it's no biggie.

Here is what I would do if I could start over. The black line is where the pinch weld flap would be if I had not cut it out. I added a bolt or two for reinforcement.

Step one: pull the inner fender away so you have room. Examine the area.

Step two: drill a hole where the green dot is. I'll explain why later.

Step three: cut a small incision where the red line is to meet the hole.

Step four: beat the flap inward, a little tap at a time. Don't go hulkster.

Step five: button the inner fender back up, use zip ties if you have to. I threw mine away.

The hole will prevent the sheet metal from tearing further. The circular opening doesn't have a sharp separation point which would be a weak spot. This is a better move than just cutting out, the fold made will retain a grip and save some structural strength. Cutting out like I did doesn't retain anything.

 

Got my LED amber DRLs and turn signals in.

 

I had a local TW members trim mine. Do you know anyone that can help or show you how to do it?

 

i need to find headlights like that for my reg cab... no one seems to make them with the blackout

 

Regular cab are same as access cab aren't they?

 

yes. 05 and 06 have different headlights from the older ones though. i have found them for the older ones. not the newer ones

 

I think I have a set of 05 lights that were blacked out. I never used them because I didn't want to mess with the little corner lights. I'm just not sure where they are.

 

hmm eh i'll figure out what im doing. retrofits probably will happen. just dont know when. might just deal with chromes for now. Good news is i should have a bed by the end of the week

 

Researched it. Got out of work early & did some research on repair options for the rear diff pumpkin on the Tundra. Smart move would probably be a used axle swap-in. But I'd have to pay that done & the trucks probably not worth it unless I find someone local who is willing to be paid in beer.

Well, it seems the rusting out a hole, leaking out the diff fluid & burning up the rear is more of a thing than I would have thought.
So everyone - take a look at your rear axle for signs of it happening. Just in case.

I found a You Tube with a guy who patched his amongst other repairs. Interesting video to me. Most interesting thing - he turned his truck into a FWD for awhile until he could get new parts. I think I caught mine soon enough that a patch will be enough, just have to find the right welder (or take up welding again after 26! years away from it).
Wanted to share the video link, gets you under the truck looking at the issue w/o getting dirty.
https://youtu.be/EgNmy7vZqPY

 

My 01 tacomas rear diff rotted out to the point where it was leaking.. I bought a new housing from toyota (pricey). Fixed my original housing with the diff plate from barnes offroad. and sold the housing to someone for a geo he was building..

moral of the story is the barnes diff cover is cheap and works.. if you can weld

 

Wow, it's ugly but at $105 + welding supplies. Thanks.
https://www.barnes4wd.com/Toyota-T1...ndra-Heavy-Duty-Differential-Cover_p_359.html

 

function over form! lol

 

Agreed. If it was out of sight enough to rot out, that would be fine.

 

I like the voice box action going on there. Sweet.

 

It was actually a 4x4 shop. I picked it because I thought they might be more knowledgeable about aligning a vehicle that's had suspension work done. They charge $90 so I'm not sure how that compares price wise.

I know some people but they all live in CA. I'm gonna drive out and visit Darkness.

But no, I really don't have anyone here that's into this sort of thing. I'll use his advice on the last page when I go at it.