What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I changed my 03's rear diff fluid today. It had been somewhere in the ballpark of 1000-2000 miles since the TrueTrac and used Sequoia 4.10's.
The oil looked pretty good. Still ckearish golf and I didn't notice any flakes, except trapped in the sludge on the plug. That diff oil has been changed twice since I got the truck, so I just wiped the plug clean and moved on. Only had 3 bottles of 80w90 conventional oil, so I figure I'll need to grab another at some point to timop it off. That's what Eaton recommends for the TrueTrac.

I've got like half a squeeze bag bottle of synthetic 75w90 that I used in my 06 front diff before. But I suppose it should mix the two, even though I believe I just need like a quarter of a quart to be full on the rear.

Curious what y'all think.

 

Man.....I wish I had known about the squeeze bags when I was doing mine. Using the bottle was a bit of a bitch and I did not want to remove my spare tire due to laziness.

 

Drill pump https://images.app.goo.gl/exHvMCb2BCeGeVjT8

 

I've never heard of such a thing. That's awesome and cheap!

 

don't mix oils you heathen

 

I dont think a splash of syn would hurt the r&p, but if eaton recommends conventional, i’d stick to that.

 

Finally someone has solved this problem. I posted this in the Frame Replacement thread as well:

https://www.jeffriesmanufacturingllc.com/product-page/bolt-in-tundra-plates

 

Yeah tell me about it. They didn't have wlthe oil I needed in squeeze bags and I didn't move my spare lol

 

Yeah I figured it was a bad idea. I just don't want to buy another bottle when I only need like a third-ish of a bottle and I'd need to drop my spare or fight it one last time. The squeeze pack on my shelf is taunting me.

 

I've been saving the empty squeeze packs to re-use.

If it were an oz or two id send it without another thought. A 1/4 of a quart would only be 10% wish of the total mix, but I've always been cautious when changing fluid specs. Sometimes they don't play nice together and it would feel silly to hurt your new gears over a few bucks and an hour of time.

edit: Realistically there's 8oz left in the housing during a normal fluid change.

Send it or don't, I don't know.

 

Meant to post this last weekend but I ordered the upgraded SPC UBJs and they require changing the knuckle insert. The shank on the sealed/upgraded UBJ is a little longer and the knuckle insert is flipped. UBJs came out with the persuasion of a hammer, but the knuckle insert needs to be pressed out. I think it could be done with the Total Chaos tool or a parts store ball joint tool, but figured out my own way instead with what was readily on hand. The knuckle inserts are held in place with a snap ring and I used a little 3n1 penetrant. I used the same method for installation of the new inserts, but in reverse.

Truck is still on blocks and I need my shocks rebuilt since one is starting to leak. Might just throw on the reman steering rack I have sitting around too since I'll need an alignment.






In other news, the weather in Palm Springs was perfect last weekend.

 

Swapped out old broken ass key fobs to an AJT case. Old aftermarket fobs finally broke but unfortunately those guts didn't sit right in the AJT case and would set the F'in panic button off when putting on the back cover thus causing my neighbors to come a knockin' at my door for a welfare check lol. Guess they thought I may be calling for help.
All in all I'm happy with the case, it's still a little snug so I can actually just sqeeze the fob to lock the doors instead of actually hitting the button.
Posted the link to the fobs that worked in the AJT case below so it may help anyone that doesn't have a factory key fob avoid the issues i had. I had success in pairing with this set of (alternate instructions) from the packaging.
https://a.co/d/f9dT1KS

 

4runner? Why it need all that?

 

Google for: Quart bottle hand pump

It basically screws onto your existing bottle and has a tub attached, which you stick into your diff fill hole, then just pump-pump-pump u ‘til the bottle is empty. Easy no-mess solution. I know Slippery Pete sells some but the one I bought to replace the old one I lost during our basement remodel doesn’t seem to be as advantageous a ratio as my old one so it takes like 60-80 pumps or something to get thru a full quart.

 

That's what I use on both the big and small Lucas bottles.

Us SW folks were just talking about this, though. When I swapped my rear, I used my pneumatic brake bleeder to suck out that extra 8oz of fluid or so that is below the drain plug .

 

That's surprisingly expensive for a couple of small sections.

 

Sequoia.

 

Ahhh the double cab SUV.

 

Use it.

Torsen diffs don't care if it's synthetic or not.



I wonder if that recommendation is a carry over from their clutch type LSD recommendations.

 

I just transitioned my double cab to a Sequoia actually picked up a cheap snugtop this morning

 

This would sell like hotcakes at an over landing symposium. Just advertise it at a Molle bumper and slap a $3500 price tag on it.

 

It said 80w90 glp5 mineral oil or some shit

 

Okay..02 tundra , last couple of days I have replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, those coil over things, put in a new thermostat ( was running cold) and...... found my negative battery terminal was literally fried / corroded completely thru... maybe a clue? My turn signals and hazards stopped working. I hit a deer recently and the wire was touching metal or maybe getting wet... so I wrapped it all in electrical tape and replaced the fuse and it works fine. Spent lots of $ on OE parts cause it's my baby... BUT!! It is still have this problem... it dies immediately after the 1st crank and starts on the second..? And I'm getting hesitation and sputtering on acceleration..! Oh yeah I forgot.. also replaced MAF sensor after it showed a code ...? What the heck else I need to look for? It's always start truck and die.. start again and good... I'm running it right now to see how bad the hesitation and sputtering will be today.. I
Could really use some suggestions please.

 

Okay still reading MAF and same symptoms... I also put in A new air filter too... maybe throttle body or some other sensor?

 

Make sure you only use OEM fuel filters. Aftermarket don't flow enough and/or tend to clog. We have some guys here still on their original factory filter after 25 years. Then we have had others with aftermarket filters that, well, see this.

Needless to say: This is one of those times when you want to make sure you use OEM.

Remind again what the issues/codes are?

And did you check the crank position sensor wiring harness?

Got any pics of the damage so we get a ballpark of what was impacted?

 

The code read MAF twice now. Although I haven't drove it very far.. I didn't get the actual code number. I was just trusting the auto store reader guy... probably not a smart idea I have not checked the crank position sensor harness yet, but I definitely will. Like I said in the video I find working on my truck somewhat enjoyable at times I am not a mechanic. But have done a lot of successful work on my truck so far

 

I'm trying to upload

 

I can't send vids...? So every time I turn the key to start it cranks over then dies. On my second attempt, it starts up and idles just fine. It does this every time first start Guy second start just fine. I tried to send a video of this. Now I can't seem to find a pattern but around second or third gear when I step on the gas while driving, it starts to hesitate very noticeably sounds like sputtering I'll lay off the gas pedal and it seems to drive beautifully if I'm not trying to force feed it a bunch of gas