What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I have the giant wheelers bump stops. Not a great fit. They constantly touch my LCA.

 

Yeah that's what I have.

 

It’s a running compound, I use it mostly for removing shallow scratches or paint transfer.

I’ve had really good luck removing haze with Rupes Bigfoot polish. It’s pricey but lasts a super long time.

 

Got gas. Cohort of mine filled me up with Premium for driving up to Helen GA and back, and I netted +1MPG this tank (12.4mpg / 238mi / those #s are uncorrected for tire size)

Took the oldest kid for a 6mi hike at Panola.

Things have been feeling stiffer than usual and I realized I never checked my tire pressure after having DT mount my Mickeys on the new wheels. 42psi. WTF. Aired down to 37.

Gotta take the oldest to an event an hour north of ATL tomorrow, will be curious how it feels now.

 

Haven't driven the truck in almost a month or really worked on it lately. Decided to swap out one of my CVs that has a torn boot. Figured out I can use a pickle fork from a certain direction to remove a CV without pulling my oil pan skid. Bad news is my UBJ has a good amount of play, so gotta order some of those.

 

@shifty` can you link the post with all the CV reboot info? I can’t seem to find it. I think it was in the lunch thread but can’t seem to find it.
could you maybe add it to your big long post, or could we get it stickied?

 

@des2mtn What's with the block of wood jack stand? Don’t have a regular one?

 

I've never once used a jackstand on my truck.

 

Made several trash runs at work today suckling on that OT titty





Filled this dumpster up twice



Before and after of a sample of the work




Actually washed crackie at a local car wash for the first time ever in my ownership





I even did under the hood (no pics)

 

Heh, my truck is shiny under all that dirt



Well the cab is...

 

How many miles on them? I think my SPC BJ's have around 38k miles on them and I've been wondering when they will need replacement.

 

Anybody have any issues with the skid plate threads? I got some new bolts for mine. Not sure if the threads were just corroded or what but the bolts did not go in nicely. Anyone have to re tap these? I’m thinking of cutting out the side of mine to get access to the oil filter I do not want to keep taking it off every oil change

 

I take my filter out from above

 

Great, thx for the input. I will check the LCA bolts/bushings. I did not end up loosening them, only the sway bar link and LBJ bolts. Glad to know it was not because I was such a noob, which was my first assumption. Really glad to have those spacers out of there

 

60-70k I think, don't remember how many miles the truck had exactly when I put them on. There's a ton more play than they are supposed to have compared to the last time I checked them.

 

I replaced the timing belt, water pump, bearings, and tensioner today. Overall I’d rate this 4 beers on the difficulty scale. I had about 7 hours total, including trying to clean as much of the under hood area I cared to - 8 years and a ton of desert miles isn’t kind. Had I not cleaned everything, this would have easily been a 5 hour job, granite my truck is a So Cal only truck, so every nut and bolt came was removed with ease. Rusty bolts would have turned this into a major pain, likely a 6 beer job. I used a full Aisin kit for the timing belt components.

The filth and cluster fuck I started with:

As a reminder, I’m going with dual AGM batteries mounted in the bed and all of this wiring is being redone properly this time.

Progress and final photos for today. The old belt was in fine shape, but my truck has 140k miles and I wasn’t sure if it had ever been done.






While it still looks dirty, it’s so much cleaner than before. Notice that the power steering pump is still off as it’s next on my list - new power steering pump, rack, lines, adding a cooler, possibly a larger reservoir. I also may go with electric fans and possibly an aluminum radiator, so I’m leaving those for later. I should make some more progress next week.

 

It's interesting to me that the live data on crackie shows vehicle speed but not transmission rpm speed hence no speedo

 

That from an app on your phone?

 

Yes, ht200. Autel scanner from Walmart. Best $50 I ever spent

https://www.walmart.com/ip/554574511?sid=6feae59b-a679-42a9-ae64-bc8e9afe9740

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1916#post-3451375

 

I had that problem on my 2000AC. Got new bolts and the threads would get messed up. I ended up buying an M8-1.25 Thread Chaser on Scamazon and cleaned up the threads in the frame and again bought new bolts. They now thread in easily by hand. I think PO probably used an impact on the skid plate.

 

What the fuck are those pipes in the firewall???

 

My guess is cage work

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-r-V0uK4u0

 

One of my wife’s favorite bands

 

@KNABORES nailed it. Each of those tubes connect to the main tube under my dash for future fuckery. These were a massive pain in the ass as each one has multiple bends in it to clear shit, with the passenger side being the worst as I had to clear the blower motor, hence why they’re not all on the same plane.

 

At first glance I thought "why the fuck is there a picture of a smoked pork loin here".

 

Fixed my saggy drivers door...though it's likely temporary it shuts better for now. I ordered the dorman 38471 kit comes with 2 bolts and inserts for the door side of hinge. Same shitty copper as factory. Problem is when you start tightening down the nut the top copper insert in my case started to shred a lil. I've seen kits with a thicker insert (from a yt video) but that's not what I got sent. It was driving me nuts so I bought anyways. Cut the old pun with an oscillating tool. Jack with foam pad under door. I only did the bottom as the top was fine. I imagine it's easier to get the old pin out with the door off but didn't wanna do that for just one.
I imagine I'll have to revisit this with a different kit with better inserts but like I said it's better.

Also bought new climate control knobs. These are aluminum, for pretty snug without the little metal clip behind them and allow less leverage to break when cold. I'll see what they look like at night and add a picture. Off to lube the cable underneath and under hood to see if that helps avoid future breaks.

Not crazy but a little more noticeable light wise on the knobs.

 

Update: Tire pressure definitely helped. Wild what a difference 5psi can make. Interestingly, more noise while less inflated. Is that normal with A/T tires?

Did @ToyotaDude get you covered above? That's the same thing I came up with.

 

Yes that’s what I was looking for. Thanks @ToyotaDude that’s exactly what I needed.