What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Did some camping this weekend and took out the 1/10 rc trucks to the rocks.




anyone into rc crawlers?

 

The vaterra k5 is mine. I've got a decent track in my neighborhood to play with it, but polo's not a fan & barks at it the whole time.



I've got a steel tonka dupmtruck body to put on it, but havent had time yet.

 

I finally made my camper shell brake wiring more-permanent. Just as a stopgap, I'd originally popped out one of the tiedown bolts and ran my wire thru its hole (tie down hole extends into tail light cavity). But I got sick of that, so I took @daveeasa's advice, and drilled my OEM bedliner where shown below, and utilized the OEM double-hole that passes into the tail light cavity. I took a 12"-14" piece of split loom and wrapped it in TESA to create a flex conduit I slid thru the bedliner and routed through the bedside holes, straight into the tail light cavity so there was no risk of rub-through on my brake wire. It worked out really well. I'd prefer to terminate this flex look into a booted grommet for a flush look but don't have anything that fit, so I wrapped TESA tape at the end so the conduit can't get pulled back through.

Oh, and I finally got off my ass and vacuumed my Bedrug. I really need to flip it over on sawhorses and pound all the fine sand out of it. I got the dust out, but there's still a gaggle of sand down in it that only vibration will take out. Thanks again for lookin' out, @jerryallday

Oh x2, I just realized even more LEDs are dead on my shell's brake light. Guess I'll be replacing that sooner than I expected so I guess I'll be in there wiring again soon enough ...

Original stop-gap wiring, where I ran it through the tie-down hole:

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New wiring, and a close-up. If you have an OEM liner, and you pop off the tie-down (don't lose the spacers between the U-hook and the bolts!!), you can pop the liner out far enough to see the OEM hole, then I used a stepbit to drill out the and center a hole in the liner over the OEM bedside hole. Note: There is that bedside hole, then another piece of sheet metal with the same size hole 2" behind it! I couldn't grommet both holes, just the outer one, which is why I chose to use a taped flex-loom to route/auto-fish my wire thru. I tucked my wire up into the plastic bedrail cap after so nothing snags it.

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Clean Bedrug base. (Clean-ish, I should probably shampoo it)

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Current state of brake light ... I lost another two 4-LED segments it would seem. It used to be [12 alive - 4 dead - 12 alive]. Now I'm at [12 alive - 8 dead - 4 alive - 8 dead].

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I got into rc crawling a couple years ago. Didnt think itd be as much fun as it is! Yours look incredible, super scale looking! Im going camping this weekend and bringing mine out, cant wait to play with them as its been awhile since Ive had a chance.

 

I gotta see that dumptruck body on there!

 

Iv been rc crawling for about 4 years now.

all my buddys run super scale crawlers so I had to build one myself. If you are in SoCal you should come out with us to one of the local spots.

The white extra cab is mine in the back is mine.

this is another one of mine

 

I am in So Cal! Ive been curious to find spots around this area.

Have you heard of Crawlers and Coffee? They are a rc crawler group that does camping trips and events and Ive thought of checking it out one of these days.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/9VBboG-DYhQ?si=NXDoxmw0YgIOuju0
https://youtube.com/shorts/itLoVrIWLTk?si=6dQjFWZosL4TH0td

 

Small world!

That was the event I was at this past weekend. I always go to them. I highly recommend for you to check it out, send me a pm and you can hang with us. We have two 1st gen tundras and a sequoia in our group

 

I don’t even remember how long ago i last drove any of my RC cars. I still have my old school “gold pan” RC10, Tamiya Black Foot truck, and Vanessa’s Lunch Box van back from the 80’s.

 

Did an oil change this am and today evening code P0442 pops up for evap small leak, bout time some issue shows up, truck hasn't given me any in years so I’m exited lol, gonna inspect evap hoses and fuel cap tomorrow.

 

That's the same hole I wired mine through when I had it.

 

While it potentially is a vacuum hose on EVAP system cracked, split at the ends, or similar, don't discount your gas cap if you're still on the original. I'd stick with an OEM cap, and not one you get off scAmazon or fleaBay.

 

Have you already tried replacing the gas cap?

Like Shifty said that's usually the culprit and easy/cheap fix. From my experience if you don't but OEM gas cap, you'll just be replacing it again in a year or two. Iirc OEM gas cap was $45. I think I bought two cheapos in four years at $15-20 each. Lesson learned.

 

Have you tried changing the gas cap?

 

I agree, OEM is the way to go.

 

Not yet, it got dark on me so I’m going to check hoses and fuel cap tomorrow, I did replace my cap with OEM one about 4 years ago, I’ll do a smoke test if needed, hopefully just a cracked hose.

 

‘03-‘04 also had the cracked filler neck TSB if my memory is on point. More info in the TSB/annoyances section of the Megathread, 1st page, 2nd reply.

 

ohh That’s right I do remember reading about that here some years ago lol . Awesome!, I’ll take a look at that as well. Thank you

 

On the saga of the cracked t-case drain. Applied Quicksteel that was very old and failed to properly mix the first time and failed to properly seal the oil the second time. Torched and scraped the bits out of the crack. Sanded and cleaned and drained for an additional 24 hours to make sure oil was completely out and surface was clean. Tried to get aluminum brazing rods but nobody had any in stock and it’s been a few days already since the tundras been down. Decided to relieve stress on the crack by permanently sealing the plug in place with JB weld on the threads/washer/crack/and around the outside of the bolt. Drilled and tapped threads on the drain plug and bought a SS bolt that I put Teflon tape on the threads (I may remove the tape as I just read it doesn’t seal oil well and can actually work free under vibration, locktite instead?). Got a magnetic thermometer and a camp stove to heat under the truck as JB weld can take 24-hours to cure at room temp and my garage was 30F. Once it’s cured I’m going to sand and coat the whole thing with plasti-dip just to make sure. This whole process probably took me longer than if I had just swapped in the junkyard T-case I bought. Sorry for the excessive pictures.

 

So the plan is to never change the fluid in this t case again ?

 

Nah man, he tapped a new bolt in the old bolt so it'll drain.

 

Ah I see now. Sleep deprivation sucks

 

Word

 

You really messed with me. I thought you were saying those first few trucks pictured were RC's. I keep zooming in and out.

 

Make that a turd in agreement!

 

theres a 3d print file for a DC, but i havent seen a 1/10 scale rc made with one yet. Closest us ac guys get is the axial 'trail honcho'. One of the fb guys said they were gonna get tundra grille/headlight stickers made, but i havent seen any results.

 

Love it man!

When I do this kind of fuckery and I have the replacement Parts on hand it becomes a "how long will this last" kind of challenge. When it does break I have the part on hand and can swap it. Could be today, could last forever I'd bet it gets you through to the spring at the very least.

Only thing I would have done differently is try to get the end of the crack drilled.
Well, that and Tig weld it, but at that point you could just swap the other case in.

 

Last time I got a good sleep was Saturday. I got an ok, short nap Sunday afternoon. Tossed and turned all day the last two days.

 

In addition to replacing cap have cleaned up roughness on area of alluminum filler neck at the seal with the cap using Scothbrite pad.