What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Almost looped mine in the rain before building the flatbed and reinstalling the camper

 

Jerry...a couple of quick questions.

1. Is that the Energy Suspension poly bushings...and what were the part #s?
2. I'm assuming that your sway bar is 27mm but could you verify?
3. Also, is that the SuspensionMaxx SB Links I see on the left side? Stock or extended (I was thinking you were stock like me). Do they make loud popping noises like Rustynuts and others have experienced? Was wondering if the noise was limited to the extended links.

 

Both rear brakes look like they were fully dipped in grease. Would this be caused by a bad outer seal?

I'm going to have a shop replace the bearings and outer seals. I'll replace the inner seals, drums and rear brake shoes. The diff breather is good. Anything else I should check or do?

 

a bad diff. vent, which then caused the seals to go.

 

As long as it moves and isn't stuck is it good, or do I need to take it off and blow through it?

 

I think you need to take it off and test it.

 

Any luck with aftermarket brake drums, or is OEM still the way to go?

 

Replace it and relocate to left tail light housing. Cheap insurance.

 

Im at 274k miles on my OEM rears

 

Have you ever had them turned? I did on my last break job, not sure I’ll turn them again

 

Not a good job? I was thinking about getting my rusty crusty ones done.

 

If your OEM drums are turnable, I'd stick with those. I bought Powerstop drums for my truck and both were wayyyyyy out of round. Had to get them turned.

Tried to go back to my original ones but they were rusty and also out of round.

 

Still rolling on original drums here at ~196k. Never had them turned.

 

I was shocked at how little wear there was on the original braking components when I re-did all my brakes. I debated keeping the original stuff but I'm glad I got it replaced.

 

Eh I don’t know, the brakes definitely suck on these trucks, I’m super glad I don’t have to do stop and go freeway slow downs from 55-6mph
Maybe I’ll think about a lspv delete in the future

 

That damn LSPV is so finicky. Considered deleting mine as well.

 

the poly bushing came with my new steering rack.

these are the sway bar bushings I purchased

$18 PAIR Front Right/Left Suspension Stabilizer Bushing CODE RED Kit FITS Sequoia 2001-2007, Tacoma 2005-2020, Tundra 2003-2006 27-28MM Sway Bar

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099VDQXG8

My SuspensionMaxx swaybar links are the extended length. No noises or popping noises, coming from the the truck finally.

I did have a popping noise when reversing out of my driveway at low speeds. Once I changed out my steering rack and lower control arms it fixed everything. I’m pretty sure the noise was coming from old bushing

I did at one point think it was the sway bar links and/or my catalytic converter shield making that noise, but after deleting them the noise was still there

 

I did too, but I swapped my eyelet bolt for a longer one and I cranked it up too far and found out the hard way in the rain lol. I like it’s function when it works, but I haven’t put a ton of effort into fine tuning it.

 

Opted to do this one myself.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-4wd-tundra-gear-oil-in-drum-assembly.147283/#post-3691437

 

almost the same; I'm at 273k on my original rears

 

Only changed pads once

 

I haven't even done that LOL

 

Replaced both lower ball joints for the first time at 125000. As a novice DIY mechanic, I proceeded to spend 5 hours on the first one... I got the other off in an hour but I ended up bending the threading on the tie rod end. One tie rod replacement later (Had to resort to MasterPro. Anyone have a good idea on their parts' quality or lack there of?) and she's back on the road. Learned a few things: 1) Don't use a tie rod puller if you want to keep the tie rod. 2) It seems completely unnecessary to pull the tie rod and risk damage when you can whack the old ball joint instead. Lessons learned, money burned...

 

Tried to do a pre-inspection of my truck before I bring it in for inspection. Found that the I might have a tie rod issue on both sides; they both clink as I try to move it left and right when it’s jacked up under the lower control arm. Left side is worse than the right.

Anyone know of a simple way to identify if it’s the inner or outer tie rod causing the issue without having someone else present?

 

Got my neighbor to move the wheel back and forth while I checked underneath. Definitely the inner tie rods. How long is that on Moog? Maybe 6-7 years? Bummer.

 

My Moogs (inners) are at 50k miles or so rn. Can’t appreciate any play in them. The mevotech outers lasted 2 months. The moogs I replaced them with the next 50k miles, although always felt a little sloppy. Just swapped for OEM when I redid the front end. Smooth and tight now. OEM everything for the win.

 

I was getting a surging throttle on cold starts. I decided to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor. Maybe the throttle was sticking a bit when cold due to being gummed up? I unbolted the throttle body but didn't remove the hoses. The three bolts were secure and I had to apply decent force to loosen them, but the nut was loose and not even finger tight.

After much scrubbing and half a bottle of CRC, most of the gummed up oil was removed.



I cleaned the MAF sensor because I had purchased the cleaner, but I don't believe this was causing my issue. I bought the CRC combo pack 5 oz bottles of throttle body and MAF cleaner for $8.50 at Walmart. My cold starts no longer have surging and the throttle seems more responsive. I doubt this service has been done to the Tundra previously.

 

Cleaning the MAF and TB on my truck really woke it up. I'd recommend also disconnecting your battery for half an hour, to get the ECU to relearn fuel trims with a fully functional MAF and TB. I picked up a whole MPG when I did this.