What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Pulled the bed and replaced full pump assembly and checked out the underside for any rust while bed was off
He's a picture of the old one. Super easy, bed removal is the most work.

 

Frame looks wayyyy better than mine

 

Do you need a/the spare tire crank assembly?

 

That’s about how many miles old mine was when I bought it 19 years ago. Lots of good miles to come

 

Decided to take a different route with wheels. US Wheel, rally wheels for that old Chevy look, showing my age.

 

Gotta ball out on the chrome now. Need to repaint the truck red too.

 

I guess I only got my truck 5 years ago but I can’t math either, with like 140k? And now I’m at 172ish, it will be a while before I break 200k unless I up my trip report status

 

Nice work. Finally a side shot of that infernal sender. Did you notice any corroded spots in the sender? Bet if you hookup a DMM set to measure impepdance, you'll see dead spots as you raise/lower the float arm.

Everything working as expected with the new assembly installed?

 

Clunk... DeepCreeped the leaf packs before and it seemed to subside, for a while. Still feels like it's up front though.
So it was either disconnecting my sway bar end links, or this lipstick treatment. Got it in there, Nice and deep like. And sprayed the shit out of the rest of it with DeepCreep.
If this only works for a while I may entertain installing the tip wear pads, but I think Ill have to brake the packs apart to do that... and another $60-80? for U-Bolts.
Hit the rear shock top/bolts just for S&G... their gonna have to be cut off. Greased the entire driveline again, slip yoke takes more than I like and I get what seems like maybe 1/4in of push back.
While I was under there noticed the V-Band clamp (I put on in Oct-22 with new exhaust) was completely gone! wtf?
Trip to NAPA, installed new clamp in the parking lot.
No clunks turning corners, or backing into drive like usual. Further testing before I draw any conclusions.

 

Dude. Just replace the spacers that should be in there, and you won't have to grease it, and it shouldn't make noise anymore. Out of all the leaf-ends, I only see one that clearly has the shim intact. And it's not this end, where both are missing. It's the one with the wood handle implement shoved into it in your 2nd pic.

 

Hahaha, I know they are all missing, that one you see doesn't even qualify as present either.
I don't think I can get enough room to slip them in there w/o braking the packs apart can I? Looks like the new ones are nealry 3/4 high.
Take a look at the room I have, the OEM keeper wont even let me get that kind of room... maybe I can yank that rubber cushion out... gain 1/4-3/8"?
That redneck clamp I made and put on there a while back because of the shifting I saw in that FAT bottom HD helper. I loosened it, but didn't want to loose what I gained putting it on.
Which leads to cutting the U-bolts because they aren't coming loose, I tried with a LONG cheater until I figured I was going to snap one. So I'd be replacing them.
I agree what you say is the correct way. What I factor in is the fused U-bolts, cost of new U-bolts, and ffs look at this thing
OH, and my shoulder is FKD up, I'm hurting from just doing what little I did today.
Damn Dr.s went from "A small non-surgical rotator cuff tare" to "interstitial" tares and "Osteoarthritis" 5 months later when I recently started having issues again.

 

You absolutely can, I’ve watched videos on YT showing people with an angled bar wedging under the tip enough to slide from the side. Dorman makes them. I’m fairly certain any LAPS should carry them, though they may not be marked as supporting our year. As long as the diameter of the nipple fits you’re good.

 

Videos to save you searching, I think all three apply. Middlenone definitely. :

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=93mw-sCq8iw

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gkobWGc6-nI

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MRpn6nPti0k

 

yup. They are in the products discussed list below

$20 x12 2" 2" Leaf Spring End Tip Wear Pad Anti Squeak Insert Cushion Plastic Silencer Block Round

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3SWQT9

 

I took that picture just for you. It looks even but similar to a motor when replacing brushes. All dirty n shit. It works perfectly. Easiest thing I've done on this truck minus removing bed

 

Those are great, thanks
But I still don't think I have enough room.
Notice in these vids they only have two leafs in between the OEM keeper, then look at mine... 3, and it's already almost touching as far as spreading them apart.
I will def get under there and see how much room I can create though

 

wait, why is your overload curved? What sort of wizadry is that?

 

Exactly...
I'm not mad at it (what the PO left me) I mean she can handle a crazy load.
But It's a bastard step child pack no doubt.

 

Think i know what add a leaf i want.
https://springworks.com/products/19...dLVgnLOMVr0ZcmKRLq0ykZIi3ZPQfuIsaAk5AEALw_wcB

 

AC bed holds two cubic yards of mulch. (Four if you make two trips when your wife decides she likes it and wants it in all the beds.)

 

There are a couple different types. Ones that have the tall flared base like yours, then ones that have a rubbed shank like this. The ones with the ribbed shank you can shave down on a bench grinder to get the clearance you need. I believe the ribs are supposed to be what holds them in.

Shave it down to the height you need, and shove it in there. Note sometimes you can also open up that rebound clip (the steel C-clip) to get more space, then close it up using a large c-clamp. Your steel may be crusty because rust belt, but ... you can also grind the rivet, remove the rebound clip, and replace with an aftermarket rebound clip. If you have a full 12-pack already though, try shaving off some of the base using the flat side of a bench grinder wheel if you've got one (I think most of us do). Else maybe you have a belt sander or sanding wheel?

$11 Dorman 924-070 Rear Leaf Spring Insert Compatible with Select Models, 4 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C1CECGS/

​

 

This here has been my truck on a number of occasions. This year though, I had to do bagged mulch because ... Leer shell. Now you've got your shell storage solution, your truck can be a truck again!!

 

Nah. I took it off because I didn't want a nice new wheel and tire under there and I didn't think it'd fit. I still haven't got a full size spare been rolling the dice this far....

 

Could be a first gen Tacoma overload.

So no bastard pack this week?

 

Oh, I like that sunshade! I've been wanting one for a week or so......might order me one. Thanks for the pic and link.

 

Just ordered both Haynes and Chilton 2006 Tundra manuals and a sunshade recommended by a member on page 2113 of this thread.

Already buying things for the Tundra.....

 

I personally think copper is the best conducter for any year's. Except forced Induction I would run a colder NGK plug which I have before. Currently running Pulstar plugs which are platinum on my 07. Ran flawlessly for 30K plus miles so far.

 

I used platinum single electrode plugs in my 5vz's, because I was too cheap to buy the dual electrodes they called for. I never had any issues either. Of course they only required copper duals

 

yea single electrode is good enough for daily driving. Im ready to swap my pulstars when i get home, but first Ill try the coppers NGK to Dyno the difference and write a full review on Pulstars, since I owe them for a free set they sent me.

 

I've only used NGK on all my yotas