What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I did that on my lunch brake. Also replaced 3 of the 4 bushing chyneseium zerks that broke off in the grease gun for some zink plated stainless steel ones here at work. I'm not sure what the squeak was I greased everything UCA ball joints, bushings, tire rod ends and even the sway bar linkages. But what ever it was ain't squeaking in the front anymore. Now it's just the leaf springs in the rear doing what they've always done. Lol, back to normal.

 

Should be able to do the anytime fog light mod and have them work independently with the factory switch I believe.

 

Things that have been replaced fighting the P0171 code: inline fuel filter, MAF/ MAP sensor, 02 sensor, tested and found no vacuum leaks, cleaned my entire throttle body, cleaned the PCV sensor/ valve, PCV hose and the PCV 90 on the throttle body.

Not sure if I posted this, but I bought this motherfucker as well. Tell me bank 1 to lean..... If that don't work I'll move the Denso 12 holes up to the next buy.

 

Does this pump fit in the OE Basket?

 

Walbro assured me it does. They said it's a direct plug and play. So I guess we will find out when I drop the fuel tank. Walbro in the past hasn't really done me wrong by any means. They have sent me the wrong fuel pump once tho when I did the 03 GLIs fuel system to keep up with the turbo I put on it. But aside from that they have been a ok for me. They also told me that it's safe to run and will not over pressurize the system.

 

Im a big fan of $0.00 fixes. This is exactly the info I was looking for, thanks. Is there any reason I shouldn't leave the diff out as well while i save up the cash to gear everything properly?

 

Yes, you can leave the front diff out, just pull the front drive shaft too.

 

When in doubt!

 

Correct, powerstop, HD pads, break in is:
-5 aggressives braking back to back 45-5 MPH
-5 Moderate braking 35-5MPH
-Cool for 5 min.

Dont come to full stop w front brakes until break in is completed. I drove it post break in last night in crazy rain storm. So far they perform great, quiet, strong braking. I might be crazy but it seems to have allowed the rear adjusters to work better, but, that could have been bc of me using e-brake during break-in procedure.

 

Nice ! Hey what skid plate is that? Are those sway-aways's? Bottom perch looks solid.

 

I would grab FSM, and voltmeter and check voltage at bank1 sensor. Sounds like a harness or connector loose issue maybe.

 

Ebay auto or pull it yard to rescue. I picked a minty Sequoia front diff for $110. At local pull it yourself yard. Def will save u coin.

 

Joined the #CordClub

 

You can tap a screwdriver between the blades for a little separation and spray graphite lube into the gap between the leaves.

 

I have full Skid Row brand skid plates and cat protectors. The front skid is a lot sturdier than the OEM skid. And the shocks are King 2.5s.

 

First time I ever followed brake-in procedure was just recently.
All rotors and pads (PowerStop) on our 13-Edge May-24
Front caliper/rotor/pads kit (PowerStop) for the 00-Civic Sept-23
Very happy with performance from that brand so far.

 

Is your fuel system kicking out of low demand (lower voltage)? Not sure what triggers the switch to 12v... TPS? But just throwing another rabbit trail out there for you
Not sure if you would feel it starving for fuel if it wasn't jumping up to 12v.
If I had to test it I guess ide tap into the power for the pump and check voltages at idle, and then when rocking the throttle?
Doesn't make sense on only one bank with this idea though.
Mine is also a 2000

 

Huh. I thought about doing that with my SS3s after the newer member on here who was going to send a 3d printed set ghosted suddenly.

I wonder if anyone makes a custom pod setup similar to this one for the DD SS3 lights? https://www.foxbeamlighting.com/products/ss3-led-fog-light-kit-for-2000-2007-toyota-tundra-sequoia

I was going to do what you did with the OEM fog light blanks, but the reality is, the kit I just linked is damn near the same price, but purpose-built.

 

So it only stalls out under a loaded idle, as in being in drive. And it does it randomly after highway speeds. Now if I have my AC on which brings the RPMs up it won't do it. It'll bog down to like 500 550 and then kick back up to 775 850 rpm. I'm not sure what's cause it to do that. I'm starting to think it's either pump or injector related cause that's all that left to replace other than the rails.

And what ever it is it's not tripping the CEL, so that's not helping me any.

 

You should have asked us before doing that. I have an SR5 bumper, mine, sitting in my garage that has brand new fog housings with frenched yellow projector bulbs I could have sold you for cheap plus shipping. Like 75 bucks total.

 

You know if you hit the pads up with a DA and 100 grit like 3 passes over each pad it speeds up the break in period.

 

Yeah but I've yet to see a decent write up on how to. Most want you to cut and splice wires under the dash. But in all reality, there should be a way to pull the relay and make a jumper wire, to give us the same result, with less mess or effort. I just have yet to see anyone figure out what relay and which two slots to jump. Should just need two inches of wire and two blade (male) crimps.

 

I think I did the BD Fogs about 4 years ago, and I already had the lights that were for another project.

 

Fair enough

 

A little bit of Dejavoo for me..... No code stall at idle under load, only when it was warmed up in closed loop. Put it in gear-stall, or at stop lights.
It was literally like flipping a switch cutting all ignition power
My tank was solid rust inside, but I went through the entire fuel system very similar to what I'm hearing you do.
My 2021 trail:
New tank
Fuel pump Denso
Incrementally flush all fuel lines
Remove-clean rails
Pressure clean all injectors forwards and backwards with a DIY system-actuate with a 9v battery
All new injector seals
Fuel pressure test - 45psi
Dampener and regulator tests...
Cleaned TB, checked the idle/rest angle of the throttle plate, and function of actuator motor.
Calibrated TPS, what a bitch.
Visit/clean all Grounds
Open and verify timing belt. condition-good, alignment-good
Extensive hands on examination of so much wiring harness and connectors
Remove and examine ECU INSIDE, and all connectors for any corrosion, no water intrusion...
At this point there was a bit of spray and pray with the parts cannon.
MAF/CAM/CRANK/Coils/plugs (harness to crank and oil sender was chewed up from serp belt/aka not routed properly, repairing didn't fix problem)
I know I've missed a bunch shit, but this took me many months and was well before I tapped into the knowledge here.
Had been avoiding ECU possibility because I thought it would be 600-800. $125, from a local salvage yard. Victory, hasn't stalled since.
I think it got a hard short during the accident this truck was in. That's all I can guess.

 

My local junkyard wanted $400! for a 90s 4runner diff with huge rollover damage. I'll be running 2wd for the meantime.

 

Ran out cutoff wheels, but this was a pain in the ass. End result is phewwwwwww looking good. Now I can confidently clear at full bump in the rear. Used rubber edge trim on the cut bedside so I won’t slice my tires if they do hit. Picking up new clips, cutoff wheels and grinding wheels tomorrow to polish off the passenger rear.

No, I did not cycle the shock. This was to maximize as much rear wheel well as cleanly as I could possibly do it.

 

CONGREGATION PLEASE BE SEATED ... AND OPEN YOUR PRAYER GUIDES TO THE BOOK OF REVELATIONS, PSALM 69...

I always loved at 1m40s when the guitar kicks in. This was a great album, especially for how fucked up on heroin Al Jourgenson was at the time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOg91PpnshI​