What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yep. A hundred milesish on it now and I'm still dry. I'll have to start taking a look at the later manual for process updates.

 

I think as long as you spiderweb that right-angle, you could paint clown faces with the FIPG and it'd still work.

When I got into my heads, there were remnants of both white and black FIPG in that corner, so whoever was in there last didn't even bother cleaning out what was there prior before reapplying the last time they were in there. It wouldn't surprise me one bit if the 2nd owner (he only had the truck maybe 8-10k miles) may've done it, and when he saw how much crust there was in the driver's head, he bailed and traded it in. Mine was arguably as-crusty as yours, but I'm sure your driver head wasn't quite as varnish-char'd as mine. But that dbl-FIPG stupidity led to my VCs leaking.

 

I put a small piece of adhesive lined heat shrink around mine to keep them together.

One had already cracked pretty good.

 

Every time I have to remove them for whatever reason one usually loses units small clip. One was cracked so I replaced it with some cheap Amazon replacements.

 

Same. I have at least 3 spares in my garage spares box

 

I was working installing a new water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, and radiator yesterday and everything was going great until it was time for the new radiator. I dropped it in and realized the nipple for the reservoir had broke off. I unboxed it and looked it over when it showed up about a week ago but I was mostly looking for screwed up fins and I missed this. I won't be able to get a hold of anyone from Mishimoto until at least Monday so I'm stuck using dad's truck or mom's car until they can send me a new one.

 

Dorman makes a nipple repair kit for about $20.

 

Just looked that up, pretty cool. I'll probably just have them send me a new one because I don't really want to spend $20 a brand new part. Thanks for the idea.

 

$37 3M 2080 S261 Satin Dark Gray (5ft x 2ft W/Application Card) Vinyl Wrap Film Sheet with Air-Release for Cars, Trucks & More (10sq ft Roll)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078X31BVG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I used the Satin Gray Dark.

 

100 degrees out? Sure, let's install a new floating screen head unit. It is nice, however. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pionee...dia-dm-receiver-black/6530257.p?skuId=6530257
I think the 9" unit is the ideal size for our trucks. Much better than the small recessed double din units and doesn't overlap the HVAC controls or vents like the 10.1" units.

Used a single to double din adpater, which mounts directly to the frame and a wiring harness. Have the rear view camera wired and it's HD, which is great. Wireless CarPlay, which is life-changing and everything else seems to be working.

I didn't have the JBL audio system on my truck or steering wheel controls, so I didn't have to worry about those. Pretty straightforward once I got everything apart.

 

Curiousity more than anything, but does the screen lift off so you can remove the dash bezel, or are you pulling out the entire radio with the bezel somehow? Clearly the screen is too large to fit thru the bezel hole, right?

I agree that looks a hell of a lot better than the >9" screen units. I didn't want to use the Alpine Halo 11" (511) units after seeing the fitment. I know Alpine also has a 9" (509) unit that's similar. I like the options, but I have no confidence someone won't see that as a good reason to smash my window when I leave the truck on a trail and I'm off on a 10-15 mile hike, just to yoink my radio. Then I'm out $$ for the glass and tuneless for a while. It's the one bonus about my Alpine W650, it looks fairly stock in the dash. I feel pretty safe parking in the city or on trails for long periods.

 

It's really not removable. You have to mount the screen to the 1 DIN unit after the plastic bezel goes back on. It's 4 screws to mount the screen to the bracket and then there is a plastic cover that buttons everything up. You'd have to work at it to get it off.

 

That one have wireless CarPlay?

 

Yes this one has wireless CarPlay, works really nice.

 

Post camping wash day.

Adam's Wheel and Tire cleaner seemed to work well. It's almost time for new rubber. These K bro 2's have served me well for 5 years now.

 

Quick stupid question…are the stock rear bumpers compatible for all years?

 

Its hard to make me jelly of a truck with black wheels, but you've got it nailed. White paint too, screams 'i was loved as a worktruck.'

drove mine today for the first time since NM. Its still not as fast as the titan, but is happy to be unhooked from that trailer. Moderate inspection finds all is well, no new leaks, tires are wearing right, tires are still at 42/40. Kinda wanna do a drain & fill, my oil pressure gauge seems to have more pressure than normal, but w/e. 4.56's would put 60-65 right in the sweet spot for towing. Maybe 4.88 if i get big tired.

 

i believe so, and you can see where the DC's compensate. Sequoia is sequoia only, most likely.

 

I would say yes. Amazon indicates they are and more importantly the rear chrome bumper itself uses the same number. You can easily change years for the same part to see they fit.

https://parts.toyotaofnashua.com/oem-parts/toyota-rear-bumper-521510c021

 

What’s the next tire setup gonna be?

 

I was almost set on pizza cutters but now I'm leaning towards my current size, 285/70/17. I like the stance and way they look. Undecided on which tire. Everyone seems to love the Falken Wildpeak and they are slightly less than others, but I'm also tempted to try the improved KO3.

I'll likely stick with load range C for better ride quality and MPG. Tires keep getting heavier which I'm not a fan of.

 

Think i might do toyo m55's, need to find em cheaper. 255/85 if i lift it. 285/75 if i get big boy springs and a worthy bumper.

 

thanks! I kind of figured but wanted to make sure

 

CEL light popped up with the pesky P1126 code which I hadn't seen in several years. I cleaned the throttle body with a rag and some CRC TB Cleaner. Actually looked pretty clean before I started. Also cleaned the MAF w/ CRC MAF cleaner. Notice the negative battery terminals although clean on the outside was dry against the post with some mild corrosion so I cleaned those and applied new felt pads and grease. CEL went out and running good. Did notice the ventilation hose #2 that goes from right valve cover to the air box Toyota P/N 12262-0F010 is starting to split. Appears to be discontinued. It has different diameters at each end. Anyone found a substitute? Thanks.

 

definitely been going back and forth on if I want 285/75 or 285/70. I’m thinking 285/75. Whatever tire I get I can’t wait to get rid of these mud tires though, so obnoxious. Definitely interested in the KO3s as well

 

I’m tempted to be more aggressive with tire size and tread pattern, but will likely stick with 265/75/16 Wildpeaks since I still need to tow a TT. The larger heavier tires are just too much of a compromise and I swore I would never buy mud tires again.

 

Why not tow with the Tundra that has twice the power?

 

Not today, but I went to remove the block lift in the rear of the truck and there appears to be a stud or the remains of the leaf spring bolt stuck in the spring perch.
I couldn’t get it out so I’ll have to figure something out.
Maybe heat and drill?

 

That Tundra won’t be around much longer

 

Did you dress the rubber with anything after, or is that how Adam’s left it? If it truly gets tires that black I need to get some. Bleached white will get all the oily residue out of rubber, but I’m never happy with the haze it leaves behind. I may need to check that stuff out.