What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Nope. It’s just one, sometimes two cowl fasteners just above the fresh intake box.

 

Hm, ok. Makes sense though, no staining on the carpet on the driver side opposite where it's dripping on the passenger side. I wonder whether the previous owner did his own leak-fixing from time to time. When I say the entire edge of my carpet is stained, I mean the entire perimeter of it is a slightly darker color. All along the passenger and driver side doors. To the point where I don't think it could just be the cowl leak anyway. Must be door gaskets. They're dry today, so I figure it's either something the PO addressed, or it only happens driving on wet roads with water spraying up at the door bottoms. Guess the car wash is a good place to test that theory...

 

I think we've all seen that exact staining your talking about when looking at sales adds... Mine has it too, I swear it wicks back along there because my doors aren't leaking.

 

My ECU is tuned/modded. By pass kit for over 3 years, zero issues. Plus URD MAF Calibrator.

 

Now I'm worried about getting a VF tune, if it messes with my SAIS by pass.

 

IIRC he did more than tune his ECU, I believe he had it physically modified. I couldn't comment on it beyond that, being as this is from memory and I don't know the details

 

It shouldn't.
It hasn't on my 06. Thing runs like a top with the VF tune, JBA long tubes, Dirty Deeds 12 hole injectors & exhaust, Airaid intake tube, and Hewitt bypass. I ran it with these mods minus the tune for a few years.

My 03, on the other hand, keeps popping a CEL for p0420 and p0430, with the same off brand cats as my 06, JBA longtubes, TRD catback, Volant intake, and Dirty Deeds 12 holes.
It of course doesn't have a bypass or a tune.


I would assume a decent tune would render the URD MAF calibrator redundant. Curious why you use it and a tune.

 

Good to know. I originally installed the URD MAF Calibrator with tune for it before sending in my ECU to R9K to maximize my power gains. It was nice for a while but I wanted more, hence the R9K tune, which I don't think gained much other than removing the governor. Fun times past 95 MPH. LOL.

 

Ah I see. Makes sense now.

 

I haven't tried to go over 95, but I know my new redline is 5900rpm with my buddies PowerThirst tune

 

I want some of those . I have the 2010SJT.

 

I wonder. I'll just check it any time it's wet.

 

I hit 112 on a nice straight but got scared for more lol. My 3rd Dyno session, guy hit 125-135. 5900 Redline is scary, but I wouldnt mind a 6500-7K redline with some cams and upgraded valve train.

 

TWSS

Or just use a water hose and spray inside the cowl?

PO may've parked under a carport or other covering or maybe they parked with the driver side lower. Jump to 4m22s mark for the fasteners.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RZkZNPNcPM#t=4m22s

 

I get the occasional P0420 but then it clears itself. I do have a bad rear 02, so that code constantly pops here and there. I recently bought a set of high flow cats by Private label. Can't wait to get back from this deployment and have DD install them.

 

And I'm pretty sure these are the cause of the A-pillar leak into the fusebox, leaks @RUSTYNUTS and I think @FrenchToasty have suffered with. This one, specifically.

​

 

Thanks. This is the driver side upper corner of the windshield? Sorry with some of the photos of leak areas I have a hard time orienting myself.

Now that I'm 99% done with getting everything to a baseline with fluids and mechanics, I can start focusing on this type stuff.

 

Oh, well this isn’t good. I’ll need to address it before it gets worse. I hate rust.

 

Update: It was the damn sway bar end links... apparently I tightened them down, but forgot to go back and torque them down at the control arm ends. Corrected that, went for a test drive, and the clunk is gone!

 

Indeed, check that video, starting around 8:30.

 

If you ordered new OEM grommets can you post up a picture of how they look when they show up. Really wondering if the quality is any different than the last time I ordered. I only got 2 and a half years out of my replacements before it started leaking again.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/def...n-water-leak-thread.70464/page-2#post-3554294

 

I remember seeing that. I've also seen videos/photos where people just took their existing grommets and either added butyl tape or silicone. I would have just done that, but mine are actually missing. I need something to start with first...so I ordered them even though the quality is likely crap. I'll just improve them with some type of sealant.

But yes, I'll follow up when they arrive.

 

The one you just posted pictures of isn't the problem area, it's the ones the screws go through up by the wipers.

 

Those are normally filled with a translucent "tophat" looking thing, and a black spindle-looking fitting snaps the cowl down, by snapping into the tophat pocket thingies.

Like Nick said, when you pull the cowl, you take out some screws. What you're sealing up is the snap-in receiver those screws go into. You only need to seal up around the edge of the receivers, and only two of them, but they tend to break apart when you pop them out, so ... be forewarned. Let them cure fully before reinstalling the cowl, or replace the fasteners totally like I did (wish I'd have sealed my new ones in ... the foams they come with are cheezball)

Part numbers you need (maybe even quantity) are in the definitive leak sticky thread.

 

I ordered the part number from the sticky, guess I just didn't realize they weren't what's missing in my photo. I'm still interested in putting in the new grommets I've bought, but it looks like I also want to replace the things my photo shows missing. I don't see those addressed in the sticky...did I miss it? Or should I not even worry about those?

 

So, uhhhhh... is this supposed to be flat?



Shoot grabbed the wrong pic. I'm talking about the mounting hole, bottom right. Tailgate handle.

 

yeah

 

Thanks. I man-strengthed it back into place.

 

And should have a bolt in it too? Is it maybe rattling around somewhere?

 

Cowl clips: 9008018055 (these are the leaky part)
Cowl push pin: 904670704522 (these are the black ball-end things that "rivet" down the cowl)
White receiver: 9046708184 (these are the white cups that snap into your steel body, and act as a receiver for the black push pins)

Cowl clips:

​

Push pin:

​

White receiver:

​