What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Cleaned throttle body and MAF. Wasn't experiencing any particular issues, just did it cause it's easy. Also ordered a pcv and grommet for the same reason.

Used a cloth, toothbrush and q-tip. Will see if I notice any difference, but I either way I always feel better knowing I've cleaned out some gunk.

 

Started the Bilstein 5100 and LBJ job this Saturday, but had to wait until today to finish due to having to wait for new tie rod ends and sway bar endlinks to come in. (Had the misfortune of ruining the threads of those while removing them.)

Hoping the 2884s settle a good bit... the front sits a bit high for my liking considering I have the camper loaded in full-time. Also, I have a new clunk that seems to occur anytime I turn the wheel left while the vehicle is in motion. Oddly it doesn't happen while stopped or if I gently turn in motion. I torqued the Bilstein lower bolts with the truck on the ground, and tie rod angles look fine too. I'm hoping it's the jacked up alignment from the new tie rods (among the other changes)... we'll see after tomorrow's alignment appointment if that sorts it out.

 

We’ve played with it on a physical level. VF tuner doesn’t support my calibration file yet.
The next attempt is going to be removing all the sais stuff in the ecm and seeing how that plays out.

 

Idk. I thought he did all Tundras, Tacos and Sequoia's

 

Why remove SAIS stuff when you can bypass it? Do you gain more power from complete removal?

 

That's just 1st gen section in general. If a post goes past the 1st page it's gonna get derailed. Half the time it doesn't even make it to the 2nd page before its derailed. It's like herding cats in here.

And yes, the search function is about useless.

 

my 2885's settled damn well near an inch. But you're not doing yourself any favors with the camper. I'd say give it about 2 weeks of daily driving and the springs will settle. Get a measurement of the front and rear again and get some new leafs. GeneralKC give about an inch or so. While ATS will give upwards to 1.5-2"

 

Those UBJs don't look so hot either...

But I'm curious if anyone has experience with them actually failing. My boots were torn and crumbling, grease long since gone, but the joint itself actually wasn't that bad.

 

replace it. Ball joints work via "no clearance" the grease/boot keeps dirt and shit out. Once dirt and shit gets in, it will begin to carve out the joint area and failure is just around the corner.

jack that wheel off the ground and grab the 12 and 6 o'clock position on the tire and give it a back and forth rock. If the wheel wobbles, the UBJ or LBJ are kaputz.

But it's one of those situations of, if that fails, especially while you're driving. It's gonna fucking suckkkkk. I personally would spend a little $$ now for UCA/UBJ (whatever route you go) as opposed to waiting for it possibly fail and replacing the entire spindle

 

MEOW, MOTHERFUCKER!!​

​

 

Hey if you want that invertor, it's yours. PM me your address and I'll pack it up and get you a price on postage.
**Full Disclosure: I never tested it, but it turned on and looked like it works since the owner had it hooked up still.

 

I performed an in depth multi day trouble shooting session to fix the fog lights on my '06 Tundra DC. Both lights went out simultaneously for no reason. After posting in here, some members helped me get to the root of my issues. It was a pretty difficult fix, but it didn't take too long to repair once diagnosed.

Any Tips on Removing the Relay for the Foglights? | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Glad you got that fog light issue fixed, I know it took all the strength you had to turn that ring! Haha

 

I'm already running the ATS HD leaf pack in the rear. Guess we'll see with time how far they settle.

As for this noise... alignment seems to have made it quieter? I checked the steering rack bushings for play, and didn't notice any. Going to try disconnecting the sway bar later to see if I can rule that out.

 

The bypass seems to be causing fueling issues from what I can find. It’s also messing with the transmission shift schedule for some reason on mine I’m talking about removing the sais on the software of the ecm. Should prevent the limp mode issues. I’ve got a friend able to do it

 

Which springs and which circlip?

Wait for settle, 200ish miles or less if on bumpier roads. Then doublecheck your swaybar bushings after and make sure they're stil alright. Think about it. You just set them on suspension that'll settle. It has probably already settled a fraction of an inch. Those little increments will ultimately add up, and suddenly where you set the links may not be appropriate anymore.

 

This ultimately supports the warning I toss out there about the bypass kits. And you're not the first person I've seen write similar. This is also not the only vehicle I've owned with an SAIS-like emissions function that doesn't play nicely with perf upgrades.

 

Aside for OEM who makes a good HD tie rod end? I have to look but at full lock on turn I'm getting a slight clunk when I start moving, it's both sides. And yes I used Moogs, did them when I first did the ball joints. I know I know...

 

Detroit axle.

 

I went with the OME 2884s with perches on the lowest circlip. That's a good point, suppose I should wait till everything settles into place. Appreciate the 2 cents.

 

Knowledge acquired

 

Lower ball joints today. Pretty straightforward but my outer tie rod stud was spinning when trying to put the castle nut back on. Shot some wd on the threads and used the impact to snug it up, torqued down so should be good. Started to rain so passenger side tomorrow

 

I suspect it's because he modded his ECU

 

Correct. Deletion/bypass kits often cause issues with performance improvements. Been screaming it from the rooftops for eons and been told some colorful things for my opinion along the way.

 

Not what I'm saying.
He physically modded his ECU.

 

Yup. I understood you. Bypass kits can be fine ... until you take something from OEM/factory to no-longer-OEM/factory. Stack chips, plug-in programmers, misc performance add-ons.

 

Luckily for me, mines fine with mostly the same power mods, but a VF Tune.
I've heard about people having issues with the Hewitt in combo with the URD MAF calibrator. I was gonna ing to buy one and take my chances before VF tuner came out with our tunes.

I have enough issues with my other modded truck haha. I think when it's inspection is due in January, I'll replace the cats with Magnaflows. I think that should do the truck. I hope it does. Then I just gotta wait for my ECU Cal ID to be cracked. I wish URD made a MAF calibrator for the 00-04. They do have a universal unit that isn't plug in play. But Eff that

 

seems Detroit axel has decent parts

 

Yep that happens but is something I tend to forget after 100,000 miles. Putting the bottle jack under it to press the joint together a bit is usually all it takes to get that nut off or back on, if the stud is spinning.


In other news...I scanned through the cab water leak thread a few times after noticing discoloration along the entire edge of my carpet. Today we had a couple inches of heavy wet snow, which melted all day. Perfect time to investigate, because I also noticed most of my cowl grommets are completely MIA. Sure enough, dripping right here. Guessing the driver side does the same, but I'm parked on an angle so all the water is running toward the passenger side.



Luckily, since I already knew I was missing grommets, I have some on their way. This confirms it was money well spent.

 

And prices