What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I needed new sway bar end links. The bushings and the boot that goes over the heim joint were both shot. So I thought I would try to make sway bar end link quick disconnects.

 

I’m interested to see how these work out! Keep us posted.

 

Finally got my passenger side decal on. Messed up the last one so I placed a custom order so the union of the flag would be facing forward on both sides, like it's supposed to

 

Looks good man, I've got custom ones being made, by @DecalsByDesign can't wait to get them.

 

Today I did the last piece of window trim.
Plasti dip black,with the glossifier.
Also tighten up all the bolts on my steering rack bushings and front shocks after my test drive today.

 

I have a 2002 Tundra four-wheel drive that had a rusted rear differential cover. I read all the suggestions on this form and only a couple applied to me. For people who are thinking about welding a new cover on keep this in mind that the differential housing is made of cast iron and the cover is mild Steel which is very difficult to weld these two together believe me I know I've been a welder all my life. I had been spraying the cover with rubberized undercoating and that help to slow down the rust. But I need a permanent solution that did not involve getting a new rear end and putting in that truck. What I did is I drain the differential, scraped as much debris off that I could, then I sandblasted the cover and took all the rust off. Then I coated the rear differential cover with four coats of por-15. That stuff is pricey but it is amazing stuff very tough. Then I refilled the differential, and then I sprayed it with four coats of truck bed liner paint. I think this is going to work just fine. Better than trying to weld on a new cover and better than using J-B Weld and a lot better of an idea than replacing the rear end. The trick is to remove as much rest and grease as you possibly can. Even after I sandblasted it I wiped it down with lacquer thinner to remove any grease or oil that existed on there. I did the same fix years ago, minus the truck bed liner paint, on a bike gas tank that was rusted pretty badly in fact it was in throwaway condition and it has worked beautifully. I would appreciate comments on this topic and my fix. Thanks guys.

 

After researching their website, sounds like the por-15 is the best solution. I’ll keep this stuff in mind!

 

Installed some amber lights in the grill. Cant wait to take some night pictures. Next step is gonna be change out the red lights in the headlights for some amber LEDs





Here are the bulbs. I figured too cheap not to try.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/miniature-led-license-plate-bolt/1685/3940/

 

Wow that looks cool, where did you get these ?? Very interested

 

Updated original post with link. I'll put up some night shots when it gets dark. I just tapped into the marker lights for ground and power, and daisy chained the lights off of each other.

 

3$ each
Totally worth a try. Can't wait to see some night shots

 

Dropped off some tree trimmings on my property. Snapped a picture. Removed front sway bar and stock skid plate.

 

Also found out my holster fits perfectly in my door pocket. So Sweet.

 

Not pitch black out, but I love em. Now my side markers look too yellow/white. Any suggestions?

 

Dude for 3$ each. Sheeeeeet I'd replace the side markers with those lights you put in the grill man.

Probably look better. All the Amber lights are the same.


My 2cents.

 

Another project, another quick trip to HD.

 

Brought my new to me 2003 Tundra home a couple of weeks ago. 90k miles on the green access cab, not a daily driver for me, but will serve as my hunting truck for chasing all sorts of critters around northern wi

Here is day one home:

After a couple of days, I got the topper off, headache rack on, vhf radio installed fit up my dog box:

And as of a few days ago, some parts from toytec showed up, hoping by weeks end to have all the shiny parts bolted on.

Thanks for all of the great information on the site! Not new to wrenching on trucks or getting them built up for purpose, but I have been a die hard chevy guy for a long time. I hunt with a couple of guys that run T100's, first gen tundras and a few newer tacomas and decided to see what all they hype was about!

Nick

 

Put the truck in the shop for 2 days and had them replace: upper and lower ball joints, shocks (Bilstein 5100), new cam bolts, lower control arms, new rotors/pads, greased the zerks on propeller, and new sway links to the factory sway bar. Lots of $, but well worth it and better than buying a new truck. Both my mechanics (separate shops) have high confidence in many more years of Tundra life.

She is tight now. Will snap pics later.

 

Last night and today I painted the ugly chrome piece on the bumper to match the truck.
Gotta spray it with clear coat today then put it back on.

 

Forgot that we did new CV’s for the 4wd.

 

Clear coated the fogs. Wiped down with acetone which softened the plastic while cleaning simultaneously. Light sanding and another wipe down with dry MF. 4 coats with clear acrylic spray and they look much better. A little spidering, but seems to be inside the plastic. Surface film is smooth.
Before

After

 

So shiny!!

 

Yeah it is. Not used to it. The ride is sweet again.

 

I bet it feels better than when it came off the dealership!

 

Sure doe$ $3k later. Next year I’m going to do the propeller shaft u-joints and carrier bearing at the same time as replacing the rear leaf springs. She’ll be ready for new tires then. Another $3k plus probably. Whats your recommendation on rear leafs Casper? Towing a single axle (3300lb.) occasionally, hauling light loads in bed (700-1200lb.) occasionally, street driving with occasional sand.

My springs currently are the original stock and I’ve been happy with them, but they have flayed out of line a bit from years of use. Here is a pic. They look tired from age, as well, when looking up close from the side angle. No lift wanted. Stock height and high quality desired.

 

No lift/stock height is one area I’m not familiar with. If I deal with suspension parts, there’s always some added elevation involved. Ive heard great things from Deaver and that’s what I’m going with but an 8-10 pack for permanent bed weight(rack, tent, rear bumper). I’m sure they can make you a custom set for your requirements. Rockauto has some Dayton springs but not familiar with them. Not sure what the difference in specs are between the access and double cab springs(width, length) but I’m sure the dc springs will provide a little extra payload, maybe.

I’ve heard others mention stock replacement springs but no brands come to mind, hopefully someone can chime in with a better solution. Maybe over on TS as well.

If you can’t find suitable replacements, airbags are always an option for when under load or towing.

 

If you hear a rattling noise under your truck it maybe either a rusted clamp holding your heatshield or the heatshield itself because the clamp is no longer proper. The fix was done three years ago using a stainless steel snake clamp purchased at the big box. The top pick is the fix after. The bottom pick is the fix after with me holding the old original clamp that used to be there. There are about 4-6 of these clamps that I’ve replaced and they are all around the heatshields surrounding exhaust pipe turns. Solves the clinking and ticking sounds from rusty clamps.

 

I heard a rattling noise a couple months back, and mine was actually a little bracket piece that was broken and was rattling against the exhaust, just pulled it off and it was fine, didn’t expect someone else to experience something similar

 

Today i Got my front windows tinted to match the back ones, then gave her a wash.