What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Adjusted rear brakes and installed new dust rubber plugs shields where others forgot to reinstall. Adjustments on the star adjuster is easy using a flat head screw driver. The star only adjusts one way. You will hear it click. I did one click and can feel a small improvement in braking.

 

6 new cowl clips installed.

 

Brutal.

Safelite guy said he sees this alot on our 1st Gens. Whats your plan?

 

I dunno. I kinda hate to bail on this truck because it has a brand new frame and I have so little into it, but I don’t know that there’s much to be done with something like this. Fixing is only temporary, and a cab swap is not worth it.

 

Ospho, Bondo, and POR15 the crap out of it and re-install that visor (repainted prior to install). Use some Fuze in those holes and caulk the window gasket. Its not hard work and who cares what it looks like under the visor.

 

Sometimes it’s the little things. Very nice!

 

Is it just the roof skin? Maybe a good one from a junk yard?! Just trying to think of anything to save a good 1st gen! Or even a cut out and patch weld in. That looks fairly flat... just throwing out ideas!

 

Yes it is. Thank you. After pulling the cowl off about 4 different times 3 of the 6 base clips broke just from dry brittle aging. Should be good to go now and hope to not ever have to pull this cowl off again.

 

A competent body shop should be able to pull the window and repair the rust. My guy charged me 500 bucks to pull the front and rear glass to repair the rust over the top of my fathers 02 Tacoma. And it’s rust was just slightly better than yours

 

Talked to seat cover company and they are sending correct seat bottom. Suppose to be making it and shipping tomorrow , meanwhile got rear brake pads installed . Got email today my driveshaft disconnect was shipped today and my new front calipers, rotors and pads are shipped and shocks are probably going out tomorrow so somewhere between wed and saturday I might be busy.

 

The paint is faded bad. No clear cut whatsoever.

 

It’s possible. It’s just a huge pain. I’m trying to do all of the work myself, and $500 for that little repair would really blow my budget. Heck, I only paid $1100 for the whole truck!

And I have about $3400 worth of stuff to do to it yet...

 

Glad for the update on the car seat cover. Keep us posted.

 

Guess you're about to get good (enough) at body work.
I'll suggest you drop the headliner so you can see what's what & hopefully see if it's just the skin, or structure.

Suddenly I don't want a visor anymore.

 

I did the top ones today, filled the tank & went to work. drip, drip, drip.
Didn't realize there were two more further down - those better match my leak pattern. Gotta get two more clamps & a better back to reach down there. Thanks for the pic & arrows - BIG help.

Does it make sense that if the original clamps aren't enough, that it suggests the hose is saturated & I should replace the hoses?

 

Time to make the first targa top tundra!

 

The clamps have stopped the slow drip which, in my case, was making its way down to the metal lines above the axle. I only did 3 new clamps. Did not do the one next to the pump.

I think the old clamps had formed a maze pattern on the hose which the fluid then followed. The hoses should be fine in your case. Make sure to wipe the excess fluid off from all areas a few times as it really stays around and if you don’t will make you think you still have a leak.

 

See my thread about this. Our trucks never had a clearcoat from the factory. These were single stage paint jobs. I actually thought the same thing. What you're seeing is oxidation that can be fixed. Don't waste money on a paint job.

 

Slathered up all fuses inside the cab and the one under the hood with some electrical grease. Remember, back in the fall I pulled all of them and sanded off the corrosion with sanding cloth. Even the interior fuses had a dark glaze about them and they never see weather?

Anyways, got around to greasing them with Noalox.

 

Or you could’ve just bought 220 fuses for $12 and saved $6 and time.

 

This just arrived. A freshie to replace the existing with 45k miles on it. Cost $14.

 

Yeah I coulda, but because I already had the grease I did not. Took me about 10 minutes tops at zero cost. These are all the original fuses and probably will outlast the useful life of the truck unless I do 3rd Gen owner electrical hack work. Hoot!

The Big Gurl from Brasil pic was for informational purposes. Good stuff to have around for home and auto!

 

Anyone happen to know the part number for the wire clamps on the driver side timing cover?

 

There is no such thing as a 3rd gen tundra. It hasn’t come out yet.

 

Got the new rad cap on. Tested the old vs. the new by squeeze (of the spring) and there is a difference. Both feel like they have about the same pressure, but the old one wobbles more on the spring.

Coulda took it to a shop for testing, but the cost of the test far outweights the $14 cost of a new cap.

A quick 20 mile trip and the cap looks good.

 

I agree there is no third gen Tundra. Changing the dash and redoing a few body panels does not a new model make....same drive train, same transmission, same frame etc etc. When has any Toyota Truck that was an actual new generation kept the the drive train, transmission and frame all the same from the previous generation?

 

Ah, I get it now. Toyota calls it gen 3, but in fact with the parts that matter it is still a gen 2. I was staying out of it until someone who knew more chimed in